^ does that sheet list torque specs? and if so which ones are are the torque values in ft-lbs thanks

 

Never mind, took a look at it again and it makes sense.

The number outside the parentheses is the Newton Meter value, the second number in the parentheses is the ft-lb value. Don't know what the first number in the parentheses is.

 

Do any of those first 4 bolts control the camber of the strut? When I did a spring swap on my Legacy, I had to mark on of the bolts to make sure I realigned the bolt to keep the camber true.....or should I just get it aligned after I swap the springs??

 

You have to get an alignment after install.

 

Thanks for posting the torque specs^^

 

get an alignment after your springs or coils settle which could take like a week or two

 

really lovely DIY !!

im thinking of getting the eibach .. so ill surely save this thread

 

You don't really need a compressor to get the front spring on. You can allign the front struts and spring into place and lower the car down to compress everything together, then bolt up the temple.

 

But when you lower the car onto the spring there isn't enough room to work on it any longer.

 

Great write up.. Subscribed!

 

I unbolted the upper ball joint, and that one bolt going through the bottom of the strut. My impact didnt work, so i put a long pipe on my wrench and it came off (thats approx 5 feet of leverage and shoulder strength). I then removed the other end of the sway bar end link.

I never came across a bolt that my wrench and a long pipe could not tackle.

to compress the eibach springs. I removed the bolts from the spring compressor clamps. I then attached the top clamps on the spring, and hammered them around and up the tightly wound coils. That worked really well, and I got them all the way to the top before I reattached the clamps and compressed the spring. Using lithium grease, or any lubricant on the spring compressors makes them 10x easier to compress.

there is no strut bearing on these cars. when you are assembling the strut, make sure the strut mount is facing the right direction so it goes in the bolt holes on the strut tower correctly

 

Just finished the front. Man was that a PITA!!! The front left came off fine with a breaker bar, but the same nut causing everyone else problems would not come off on the right side. I made a trip to Harbor Freight and spent $200 on an air compressor, impact wrench and some other tools and it still wouldn't come off. We ended up breaking our 6 point socket, so had to try with the 12 point which eventually rounded off the nut. We then found that dropping the whole control arm was much easier. The spring did have a little kick to it when removing, but nothing major and a persons weight is enough to hold it... Tomorrow we will get the rear!
Thanks for the write up though!

 

I can't get the @$(%&@(& rear bolt out. WTF am I doing wrong? I've tried jacking up the thing under the spring, the joint where the bolt is, the knuckle under the rotor.... everything. How do you get the damn bolt out?

 

....just keep screwing it out. I had no idea the threads were that long in the rear screws.

 

ok Quick Question? I decided to try this out this week end, I dont have a compressor orand impact wrench so I used a lot of the PB blast had it soaked overnight and tried my 24" breaker bar, F**K I rounded the nut!! so how do I get that off now, and where do I get a replacement nut and what size? PLEASE HELP??