What's up guys,

I've been hanging around this forum for a bit now and it's time for my first post.

My SES light turned on at 2,300 miles. I followed the steps provided on this thread and the SES light turns off. After 10 to 15 miles of driving the SES magically turns on again.

My IP G is bone stock!

What the F*&# is up with this???

 

I'd say, take it to the dealer for a check-up.
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if you reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery, how many hours does it take before you connect the battery back?

 

Okay, Let's look at this logically.

The ECU is a computer. Disconnect the power everything that is not on a hard drive, flash memory, or some other type of hard coded memory is erased.

The only exception to the rule is under the following condition:

A capacitor or a second battery is used to maintain a charge for temporary memory that you don't want erased when the power is disconnected for a short period of time.

Capacitors used in most computers discharge very rapidly - usually within 15-20 seconds, when the power source is completely disconnected, the maximum time that I have seen a capacitor in this enviroment last is 2 mins.

If a second smaller battery is used think maybe - Watch Battery - most of the ones that I have seen last alot longer than a day. The most common one used in computers is for CMOS they last for years!

So, the Logical conclusion is if you disconnect the battery for 15 mins. everything should be good to go. Unless you are convinced they are using a second battery then you decide 1 month, 2 months,...........

I'll be driving my G.

 

How do you know the ECU reset besides the blinking light?

 

That is the signal from the ECU that it has been reset. If you need more "proof" disconnect the battery.

 

took me 5 tries... almost gave up =p

JY

 

AHHH bout to pull my hair out guys! I installed my new intake this week and my service engine soon light came on either way im trying to reset my ecu but im having a hell of a time doing this any more suggestions?? I think ive tryed 20+ times now arrrg!

 

The first time I tried it last week in my Buddy's G, it took me 3 times, then I used the option of turn on the car, wait 2 seconds and then press the pedal 5 times in 4 seconds, the rest was the same than the OP, and it worked.

Then I installed my Exhaust last week, and the same procedure worked at first try, and yesterday I installed the JWT Pop-Chargers, also, it worked at first try, SO, you should give it a try.

 

Damn this i cant get it, haha. it was like 90 something degrees outside and i was sweating in the car like crazy trying to do it. i eventually gave up after 15 or so tries. i'll try again when its cooler.

 

I've reset it only twice, and both times took me over 20 tries...

 

There are a few prerequisites, listed in the G37 Service Manual, to performing an ECU reset. I have highlighted them in bold in the outlined ECU procedure below.


IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING
IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING : Description INFOID:0000000001733921
Idle Air Volume Learning is a function of ECM to learn the idle air volume that keeps engine idle speed within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions:

• Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
• Each time VVEL actuator sub assembly or VVEL control module is replaced.
• Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING : Special Repair Requirement INFOID:0000000001733922

1.PRECONDITIONING
Make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

• Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
• Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 105°C (158 - 221°F)
• PNP switch: ON
• Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is
started the headlamp will not be illuminated.
• Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
• Vehicle speed: Stopped
• Transmission: Warmed-up
- A/T models
• Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
- M/T models
• Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

Do you have CONSULT-III?
NO >> GO TO 3.

3.PERFORM IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING
Without CONSULT-III

NOTE:
• It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
• It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has a malfunction.

INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
4. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
- Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
- Fully release the accelerator pedal.
5. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
6. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
7. Start engine and let it idle.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
>> END

 

I gave up on trying this and just unplugged my battery overnight sooo much easier!

 

It took me about a dozen tries to get the light to flash -
when it did I was so shocked I screwed up the process and had to do it again!
I finally reset the ECU on the 14th try.....

 

after about the 5th try i got it. yeah its all on timing.. but it worked.