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12 pound flywheel? Yikes! Looking forward to the comments on that.
I was afraid at first also until i read a review post on Facebook for this same setup. Guy said it was very manageable and his wife didn't have trouble driving the car either.
Originally Posted by jdog78
Wow, you have busy as well lol. How's that engine swap coming? If you plan on adding headers, I would recommended doing it while replacing the engine (you don't want do it after the engine is in there). It takes good amount of time to just take the heat shield off... I have cuts and bruises to prove it lol
I've just been collecting parts at the moment. My car has been sitting since the start of my header removal. I have the passenger out and have the driverside nuts loosened. I stopped when I purchased the newer motor.
My current motor is pending for sale locally so I need to have it pulled. I just got back my hoist. I told the shop i bought the motor from to hold on pulling it out of the donor car, since I wasn't ready yet. I'll be installing the z1 headers with the engine out for sure.
I was afraid at first also until i read a review post on Facebook for this same setup. Guy said it was very manageable and his wife didn't have trouble driving the car either.
I've just been collecting parts at the moment. My car has been sitting since the start of my header removal. I have the passenger out and have the driverside nuts loosened. I stopped when I purchased the newer motor.
My current motor is pending for sale locally so I need to have it pulled. I just got back my hoist. I told the shop i bought the motor from to hold on pulling it out of the donor car, since I wasn't ready yet. I'll be installing the z1 headers with the engine out for sure.
That will make easier to get to those motor mounts. You should be able hit them from the top with those heatshields off. Since you are putting in 2016 engine, do you have to replace ECM to match up that engine year/version? I know with automatics the TCM on the Valve Body need to line up with ECM. This may not be the case with MT.
Haven't posted an updates in a while. But made some major progress.
Picked up my 2015 motor and proceeded to remove the old motor. Buyer come by to check the motor out and also helped with the removal.
Started the process around 8am and had it out by 1pm. Definitely a learning experince for me. If i tried to do it by myself, I probably would hav taken the whole day and some. But the overall its not bad.
I also rented a tool to remove the old pilot bushing on my newer motor.
Sorry - I may have missed it. What's going on where you pulled the motor?
Nothing wrong with my motor execpt the 140k miles on it. A local shop hit me up about having a 2015 Q60 with 15k miles for sale at $1600.
Its not the best deal but its about what I would have paid if I were to have my gallery gaskets done by a shop.
A friend dropped by to test fit my HBP y pipe and temporarily replace his ISR y pipe with a Megan Racing he previous used.
Here's a few comparison of them together
I was lucky enough to find a new ATI super damper off Facebook Market place. IT as part of the group buy put on by MA Motorsports. This is the 4% underdriven. There is a 25% underdriven and a dry sump version also.
I took some measurements and then took both the crank pulley and the super damper to a machine shop to get it clearanced per he instructions by MA Motorsports. I was reading a thread on FB that most ATI owners didn't have this done and was still successful in their install.
The clearancing was only $40 so I said why not. I don't have pictures of the after clearancing but it makes a big difference how the ATI damper fits to the crankshaft.
It has been a hot minute since I've done anything G37 related. I recently picked up a 180sx, since my first one was totaled before being able to complete my build. This clean one came up at a price within my budget.
When I brought her home.
dropped on coilovers, 5 lug hub swap, 6 piston brakes up front.
I've been trying to find some 17" that would fit the rear and clear the caliper, then low and behold, these 5zigen FNO1R-C in 17x10.0 +12 fit perfectly.
these currently have 255/40R17 tires
clearance is tight, but rotates freely and doesn't contact the caliper, but I'll have to check underneath and the backside when I pull the car out.
If you need a sign that says you should VHR swap it this is IT.
I might be able to make you a harness.
I love the VHR, but I also love the SR20. I have a lot of left over parts. goal would be to do a GT2871R .64 for a nice 380whp wiht good response. my last 240sx weighed 2929 with me in it and full fluids. the JDM cars are lighter since the door impact beams and other safety items are difference between US and Japan.
I love the VHR, but I also love the SR20. I have a lot of left over parts. goal would be to do a GT2871R .64 for a nice 380whp wiht good response. my last 240sx weighed 2929 with me in it and full fluids. the JDM cars are lighter since the door impact beams and other safety items are difference between US and Japan.
A friend dropped by to test fit my HBP y pipe and temporarily replace his ISR y pipe with a Megan Racing he previous used.
Here's a few comparison of them together
What u think of the HBP resonated y pipe? Hows the quality? Looking to get one because motordyne hasn’t gotten to my order been 8 months they backed up on orders
I haven't had the chance to run my person HBP y pipe yet, but the car in the picture ordered 1 for himself after the test fitting to pair with his SOHO dual ehaust. He show'ed me pictures of the install and said the resonated y pipe made the SOHO ehxuast sound deeper and eliminated the metallic sound it originally had with the ISR y pipe.
