A friend had his car rear ended so I picked up his front lower control arm that already had SPL bushings installed.

its a subtle difference but the steering and going over bumps feel much better.

had to pay the shop because I didn’t have time to remove mine to give to my friend to put back on the car.

 

As played out as they are, I still love them. weighed just the wheels on my bathroom scale and both are right under 18lbs for the 18x9.5 +15 nad 18x10.0 +38. Enkei's website lists them as 18.20 lbs and 18.45 lbs.

The fronts poke because of the aggressive offset but its the only size in a 9.5" that clears the Akebono. I plan to have front camber set at -2.5 and hope that will be enough to sit under the fenders.

Tires, I went with Toyo Proxes A/S in 255/40 and 285/35. I chose this size because i really liked the feel of the smaller diameter (steering response and gearing), despite it causing my speedo to read off by 4 mph. The Proxes A/S is also a new tire out my Toyo with a new compound that I had the opportunity to help develop in the early stages.

 

Things left to do:

- Finish installing Z1 headers
- Swap throttle bodies to Rabbit Holes' 75mm setup
- Retune
- Install TBW front under tray and rear tray/diffuser
- Replace valvecover gaskets
- Lower the car
- Alignment

 

Since I had my upper manifold off I decided I was going to delete the throttle body coolant hoses.

 

I remember doing that with my previous car, having installed a phenolic spacer between the TB and the UIM. If I recall correctly, the coolant fluid is intended to to actually heat up the TB (when the coolant fluid is hot), so it doesn't stick when experiencing sub-zero temps. And deleting that introduces the theoretical benefit of reduced air intake temps. At least, that's how I remember it.

Is that right?

 

correct, the coolant is a preventive measure to keep the TB from sticking from ice. Michael Upton is the person i got the hose kit from, he lives in NC, and hasn't had any issues.

I'm in GA,and we do get some snow, I'm not too worried. There really isn't anything to gain in power or even response that I've noticed. I just did it to save on space since I'm always working aroung in the area and swapping different parts.

 

I incorporated my PCV to that source of vacuum. So far no issues, I would like to compare my MPG with it connected to the factory source to see if I find any differences. Waiting on Motorvate's episode on this to finalize based on his findings.

 

I'm also waiting on his results also. so you routed your PVC to the back vacuum source instead of the front? Do you have pictures of your setup?

 

I used 90 deg plastic fittings on top of factory PCV ran a 3/8 fuel injection hose to two Ts that tied into vacuum source

The clear hoses go to a T that ties the PCV into that bank. The other part of the T join also into another T that sees the EVAP sol. The idea is that the EVAP sol will still continue to work and has a one way valve. I've had this setup like this for 6k miles with no issues. I want to put a oil separator in between the clear hoses since you can see they are seeing oil.

 

I needed new studs and nuts since most of mine were damaged during the removal or rusted

the oem stud is about 55mm long end to end. About 22mm on the nut thread end and about 17mm on the block thread end

the new stud is titanium, 48mm total length, 25mm on nut side and 15mm on block end.

 

Picked up a use TBW front and rear undertray locally a while back but didn't post any pictures. I tried to install the rear tray but the mounting locations were super rusted out with the screw broken into. I'll see if I can drill it out or maybe just replace the brace and bracket it mounts to.






My EPS carbon driveshaft also arrived earlier this month. it'll be going in when i do my clutch.



Not a planned buy but decided to also get the Z Speed Short Shifter. I've been eyeing the Buddy Club shifter for a while, and when Joe today me its the same style, not to mention it was during their close out sale at $100. I couldn't say no.
I like the OEM style construction.




And my most recent purchase was also not expected but couldn't pass up the deal. Found this on Facebook. Brand new.




I put my header install on hold since I just bought a 2016 VHR motor with 19k miles. Waiting for the shop to pull the motor, but als need to pull mine and sell. Waiting for Black Friday to also purchase the Z Speed clutch kit with CMAK and other small parts needed for the swap.

 

Joe and his team are fast with thier items. Everything arrived this afternoon.

Z Speed EZ Street Stage 2 with 12.3lb aluminum flywheel and upgrade z Speed flywheel bolts.

I didn't know the CMAK was on its 3rd version.

 

I think i have the v2 cmak. Interested to know what's changed in the v3? Also wanna see how you like the feel of this short shifter. I have the stillen and despise it. Good luck with all that's coming, your G will come out so strong after all the installs.

 

12 pound flywheel? Yikes! Looking forward to the comments on that.

 

Wow, you have busy as well lol. How's that engine swap coming? If you plan on adding headers, I would recommended doing it while replacing the engine (you don't want do it after the engine is in there). It takes good amount of time to just take the heat shield off... I have cuts and bruises to prove it lol