Strut, tray, and a pic of the engine bay detailed bits.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Front-Ho...-127632-2357-0

for the red hood supports.

 

Re-adjusted link lengths on the Whiteline front end links and tightened, again. Sway bar loosened them up after about 250 miles of driving.

I'll post something to the Sedan Chat thread and see if there are others with this issue.

I think now that the combination of Nismo 370z red springs and Hotchkis bars is too stiff for a sedan. I'm going to explore standard 370z springs and see what I get in terms of drop - I want to keep it in the .5 - .75 range and no more. The rear Nismo are too low anyway even with a spacer.

Was talking about this with a long-time car friend and he commented that this is the first car I've had (that he knew about anyway) where I have power all dialed in where I want it and don't have the suspension up to snuff. I usually am the opposite - I'll perfect the suspension but never get around to the drivetrain.

 

I have been tossing around this idea. I look forward to how it turns out for you. With it being my daily driver (snow, gravel, etc), I dont want to be too low, but I want a nice fitment. Looking forward to progress

 

The Nismo spring drop is about perfect in front.

 

Fitment looks really good, Mike.

 

Red hood struts. IDK, Mike. I like the idea, but it's so red. Have you considered CF struts? Seems if anything appropriately has a CF look (if only cosmetic), it would be something like a hood strut.

No, wait, I know what's off here. You've got shiny red hood struts over some dried leaves and dirty, weathered plastics.

 

Yeah, yeah - I have barely had time to put gas in it recently I've been so busy. Cleaning it has been right out.

Seriously - mine has the common slow-to-fill issue so it takes 20ish minutes to fill the tank. I end up putting 5 gallons in every few days because I don't have the time to wait for a full tank. That, by the way, is getting old.

In theory (the theory being that they can find one to buy/lease) I get a company car in March so I can deal with some of the longer-term issues - like removing the front end again to get the headlights and fog lights sorted out, without having to have it put back together 4 hours later to drive to work the next day.

In terms of the red - I've got kinda a red and black thing going on. I'm contemplating red after-maf silicone to make it all match.

 

I've been trying to document when and where my car is super squirrelly since it isn't consistent. The one odd thing I've noticed is that it is MUCH less squirrelly when traction/stab control is really off (IE, accelerometer unplugged). Not no squirrellyness, but much less. The twitchiness predates any suspension mods (made a teeny bit worse by the nismo springs) - in fact, happened when I switched from the beastly 20" aftermarket wheels to the 19" coupe sport wheels. I'm wondering if the wheel bearings took too much abuse from the 20s being hammered on (the center hole was an interference fit, and it took a prybar to get the wheels off... also had the acorn nuts torqued down over 200ft-lbs, as I bent my 4-way wrench getting them off).

I'm at wits end here. The car is so skitzy that I won't let anyone else drive it. I need to grok the available spring rates and drops with oem suspension geometry (the NISMO springs are too stiff) and figure out why the front swaybar keeps loosening it's link bolts... and that doesn't even address the squirrelly issue...

 

What?! The specs on the G's lug nuts is only 80 ft-lbs.

If you were able to crank down 200 ft-lbs without snapping the bolt, you probably warped the rotor as things heated up and cooled down.

 

I didn't do these things. That was how the car was when I got it. That was pre-Z1 rotors and red calipers, and yes my front rotors were warped.

I actually use a torque wrench normally, and have a torque-limiting extension for my impact gun that breaks at 85 ft-lbs. And now that I'm using made-for-Nissan wheels with proper length mag-style lug nuts no issues. I think that using acorn nuts on aftermarket wheels that needed to be pounded on over the hub lip only gave them 3-4 threads worth of engagement - I'm surprised I don't have stripped or stretched wheel studs too. I ran a tap over them all when I swapped to the 19"s to make sure - just pulled out some rust.

I've had Nissan and Infiniti check the wheel bearings supposedly when troubleshooting the steering/handling issue and they said they're fine... but I'm not convinced they did anything but listen for grinding noise. I've touched on my trust issues with other mechanics before LOL.

 

Another data point - I added a Tanabe FSTB this weekend and it seems to have cut down on the twitchy wandering too - that really should just be a placebo, unless I've got popped welds somewhere in the front of the car.

 

Seems crazy to think that you of all people here would torque down log nuts to 200. My bad.

 

LOL. Well, I have good days and bad days... but that wasn't *my* bad day. Other than bending a $50 4-way wrench.

 

So I've been driving a few days with Traction control dead (on purpose, not a mechanical/electrical fail). While the car still wanders and tramlines like mad, it's more a front-end twitch than a whole-car jump to the left or right. I think the accelerometer was picking up the twitch and basically doing its job - dragging the opposite rear brake to correct. The system can't truly damp out the oscillations though since they're not regular... which means it's probably not technically an oscillation LOL. So with it off, the car isn't fighting itself. I need to get under it and see if the front wheel bearings have any lateral play and check all the steering joints too... if I can get the handling of this thing nailed down it will go from being a really fun car to a great one.