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EDIT: Crossmember bushing install explained in post #1/#85 and pics in #77 (pg 6 for "Cole's Notes")
I did see that, but it is good info. to have on this subject too. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Splitter
When I installed my Z1 rear diff bushing it went in by hand. Some white lithium grease on the bushing and the subframe and it popped right in.
Well, that is awesome news! Hopefully, I have the same luck with mine.
Originally Posted by Rochester
Say... if you were to discuss these bushings with a mechanic before an install, what would you think is good advice?
They are actually not terribly difficult to do. Just a pain in the **** to cut out the old rear bushing. The 2 front bushings on the rear diff were not too bad. Our mechanics have never had to replace a rear diff bushing on a Z car, but their service manual calls to replace the entire subframe which is why this job is normally so time consuming and expensive. Cutting out and pressing in the new bushing shaves countless hours off of the install time. Hopefully, I have the same luck as Splitter with the install. (Fingers crossed)
Two nights ago my car randomly went into limp mode on the highway on my way home from work. No check engine light and it reset after being shut off for about 30 seconds. I called Z1 motorsports about the tune and they asked for any codes off the OBD2. It was throwing a code for the passenger side mass air flow sensor (P10101 or similar).
Last night it went into limp mode again and the check engine light came on this time. Same code for the mass air flow sensor. There was a service bulletin for this back in July of 2015 and it called for reflashing the ECU. Perfect timing as my electronics warranty just ended 2 weeks ago!?!
I was also worried I would lose my tune so I called John at Z1 who did the tune and he said I would not lose my tune. I went back to my Nissan tech who checked it out only to realize the update had already been done to my car. I called John back at Z1 who said to try some mass air flow sensor cleaner and if that did not work he could sent me a loaner cable to try to diagnose it while driving. At least Z1 is working with me, but I wish it was just working. I really doubt it is the mass air flow sensors as they looked really clean when I installed the intakes a few weeks ago.
Looking clean to the eye and being functional aren't necessarily synonymous. In the spirit of throwing money at problems, drop $100 on a new sensor and hope for the best.
Years ago, the MAF sensor on the 2002-2003 Maxima was a notorious known point of failure. For some reason (blatant consumer rape) that sensor was $600.
Have you had a MAF go bad in your G Rochester? I got a similar code on a Subaru years ago after driving it with an oiled air filer for a few years. When I pulled out the MAF it was covered in oil and I just wiped it off and it worked again.
The MAFs in my G both looked perfect so I figured they would be fine, especially since the Z1 intakes use dry filters. Odd that the passenger side MAF would go out right after I installed the intakes, plenum, and tune. I will try some of the cleaner 1st, or I can break down and buy the part if it is only $100 since my warranty on electronics seriously expired only about 2 weeks ago. Go figure...
Mine didn't go bad in my G, nor my old Maxima. However, with the Maxima years ago, people online were dropping like flies, and only the 5.5 Gen owners (2002-2003). The 5.0 Gen cars (2000-2001) didn't suffer the same failure rate, and neither did the 6th Gens. I suspect that by the time the 6th Gen started production, they had solved the systemic problem.
And yes, the 2002-2003 MAF for that car costs $600. However, someone figured out that it was the identical MAF as the previous model, except it was missing the thermistor for the temp sensor. Turns out you could spend $100 on the previous MAF, and $6 on a particular Honeywell thermistor, weld it into the leads... and it worked.
Purely out of curiosity and a predisposition to do some creative preventative maintenance, I did exactly that. And it worked just fine.
Anyway, yes, I think the sensor can go bad even though it looks clean. Just like my clutch position sensor went bad on my G, when it's a relatively simplistic electronic component. The MAF isn't simple. There's a little circuit board there.
I picked up some MAF sensor cleaner on Sunday and sprayed both of the sensors (L & R) a number of times. They looked perfectly clean when I took them out, but hopefully, this will do the trick. If not, it looks like I can pick up a replacement for as little as $30. Fingers crossed that this worked.
Don't try to muscle the parts together like I did or your head might explode. The Stillen gen 3 intakes must have a smaller diameter pipe or require you to remove a lot of material from the radiator support to get them to fit. I would look into this if you are considering the Stillen intakes as the Z1 are a tight, nearly impossible fit, without the grease. If Stillen says you need to remove material from the radiator support, I would probably pass as there is a lot of material to remove in that section and the Stillen support staff is terrible.
Well I have had Stillen, R2C, and now Tekeda and while yes the obvious is you do have to remove some of the radiator support, a dremel makes VERY quick work of this and as long as you take the bumpe roff (10 min job) its pretty easy. Just need to be extra careful around the AC lines.
As for the issues your having, I was hoping you had the admin cai and it was just the wrong tune, but that is not the case. I hope the cleaning of the MAF's work. So you were tuned before the intakes?
This may sound like an insult, but I'd go back and check the pipes/couplers on the pass side to ensure everything is indeed intact and not lose before purchasing a new sensor.
Well I have had Stillen, R2C, and now Tekeda and while yes the obvious is you do have to remove some of the radiator support, a dremel makes VERY quick work of this and as long as you take the bumpe roff (10 min job) its pretty easy. Just need to be extra careful around the AC lines.
As for the issues your having, I was hoping you had the admin cai and it was just the wrong tune, but that is not the case. I hope the cleaning of the MAF's work. So you were tuned before the intakes?
This may sound like an insult, but I'd go back and check the pipes/couplers on the pass side to ensure everything is indeed intact and not lose before purchasing a new sensor.
The Stillen tubes must be quite a bit smaller than the silicone Z1 tubes.
I did the intakes, intake plenum, and tune at the same time to avoid issues. It ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then I noticed that on start up it was running pretty rich as there were black deposits on my garage floor. About a week after that it started going into limp mode and getting awful mileage.
I checked all the connections and plugs last night and everything looks good. The sensors on both sides looked really clean, but I used the cleaner anyway. I made it to work without any issues, but I have only had issues with the drive home. Not sure why, but hopefully it works ok tonight on the way home.
Looking clean to the eye and being functional aren't necessarily synonymous. In the spirit of throwing money at problems, drop $100 on a new sensor and hope for the best.
Good call Rochester. I took the advice of John at Z1 and picked up some MAF sensor cleaner from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $9 and that seemed to do the trick. I have been driving it all week and have not had any issues. (knocks on wood)
If anyone has the same issue- the MAF sensor cleaner seems to work well. It evaporates really quickly so don't be afraid to douse the sensors in cleaner. I did both MAF sensors to try to prevent any future issues.
So ever since I saw Daddy Fat Sacs carbon wrapped trim I have been thinking about doing something similar with the Carsmo *****. Carbon Fiber Element can wrap as many trim pieces as you want, but it seems a little sketchy since they are just on facebook without a website or even a phone number. But I think it turned out great on his car. The following are his pictures.
I would probably also do the lower center console trim and maybe the shifter trim and steering wheel plastic surround. I also have a friend who specializes in vinyl wraps. I did a carbon fiber vinyl wrap previously on my Evo X and it was an improvement, but I need a better looking (shinier?) wrap for this car. There is a new product coming out that I am considering, but I have yet to see it.
The Stillen gen 3 intakes must have a smaller diameter pipe or require you to remove a lot of material from the radiator support to get them to fit. I would look into this if you are considering the Stillen intakes as the Z1 are a tight, nearly impossible fit, without the grease. If Stillen says you need to remove material from the radiator support, I would probably pass as there is a lot of material to remove in that section and the Stillen support staff is terrible.
