It's funny...the car actually looks level across the entire bottom. But the rear fenders seem to be eating the rear tires alive!!!

After my alignment is finished I'll find a level parking lot and take some measurements similar to what Richester did on his ride.

 

I gotcha, I like a slight rake to mine. But to do that I'll need to buy the new springs and I feel like I have been buying everything under the sun already as of late.

David may be able to help you figure something out to raise up the rear a bit. May want to give him a call.

 

I think you feel that way because you HAVE BEEN buying everything under the sun lately lol.

I'll see what David has to say too thanks.

 

So I just dropped my car off for the alignment. They aren't 100% sure they can get her up on the lift but I feel like they will figure it out.

The wheel tech guy said I'm gonna need the aftermarket arms to adjust the camber. He said he will know for sure if I'll need all 4 or just the rears after they finish.

Anybody have any suggestions? Help

FYI I'm not trying to buy the best of the best. But best bang for my buck would be nice.

 

The wheel tech guy is right... there's very little room for adjustment with the OEM arms.

Regardless, adjusting camber isn't going to do anything about the height of your rear suspension. All it will do is alter perception of the fitment.

Your end-game isn't going to happen today, Red. All that's going to happen is more info for you to chew on, and peace-of-mind that toe is adjusted safely, where you won't be ripping up your tires.

 

WOW Red ! Are those 20s ? If so, you just converted me. WOW !

 

They are indeed 20's Sir. Look much better in person too. And thank you.

 

Well they weren't even able to get it up onto the lift without possibly damaging my CF ground effects! They said they were equipped to handle lowered rides but no luck today. I'll call around again and this time I'll be much more Specific about what they will be dealing with.

I need to get some adjustable arms soon. I need to raise the rear up by 1/4"-1/2". According to the wheel tech once my rear tires are aligned and adjusted he's not sure if the 275/30/20 will clear the fenders. Looking at it myself I can see he may be correct.

I'm going to take out my spare tire and all the tools just to see if it helps at all. But I'm gonna need some knowledge & experience dropped on me as well plz guys

 

There you go 3POINT8. I figured with all the negative stuff going thru my head right now I should post some pics that make me happy. Ugh

 

^^^
To me, Red, it looks like you've got 300 pounds in your trunk. It just looks goofy, buddy. Sorry.

However, the wheels themselves are gorgeous. And their offset looks fine against the vertical plane of the fenders.

You're simply not going to be able to raise the rear end with poly spacers without compromising the handling. You saw what I went through this year, thinking that was a solution. It's not. It simply isn't. I'm a little embarrassed by my efforts there, but just a little bit... pride before the fall, and all that, LOL.

For one, the 5/8" spacer technique actually raises things nearly one full inch, because there's no material for the springs to settle into... the poly is too hard. Plus, once the springs are sitting on that hard poly, without the means to form into it, your handing gets a little squirrelly. That was something I didn't realize until after the fact. And the 3/8" spacers, while a perfect solution for a few weeks, eventually blew out because the material is too soft. Both experiments were a big fail.

My only option was to go with Coil-overs, and even then I am maxed out at the height extent on what would be considered very conservative CO's.

Potentially, you could put a spacer on the *underside* of your top-seats. But to accomplish that correctly and safely, you need a creative mechanic willing to experiment. And I suspect the fitment of the top seat into the upper bucket would be compromised.

Whatever you do, you will likely require an adjustable camber arm and aftermarket toe-bolt, otherwise camber will dial in after targeting toe, and it will be whatever it is, with barely 0.2* available adjustment. Without the camber & toe kit, there's just no wiggle room.

You know, I don't hang out in the Vert forum, but I have to believe these problems are identified and solved over there.

 

Sorry to hear Red that your having issues with the fitment right now. Are you running stock shocks on SWIFTs ? Rereading the last several post got me kinda weary about lowering my car now. Dang.

 

To be clear I don't hate the way the car looks. I actually love it. But I want the alignment done and I don't want to be replacing rear tires every 6-12 months. I'm going to figure this out one way or another.

Maybe I'll just get some coilovers and call it a day. Oh and some camber arms n toe bolts. $&&$$&&&$$ sheesh

 

Much easier said than done. In big broad numbers, CO's range from $1000 to $2000, front and rear camber & toe kits range from $500 to $1000 or more. You can also go cheap or go big on end-links. And then of course, you have all the labor and repeated alignments. After after you get CO's, there's all the adjustments you'll be wanting to tweak.

Seriously, Red... you've set yourself down a path that seemed like a few hundred dollars in lowering springs, but could easily blossom into many thousands of dollars in arms, links, CO's and labor.

All because of wheel fitment.

Good luck, and welcome to the club.

(Or you could rip up your club membership card for a Platinum Card that lets you ride on bags. Big bucks, there. Penthouse parking, LOL)

 

Yes I'm beginning to realize that. Damn damn damn.

There are actually some used BC coils on the classifieds right now for $650. Not that I can afford that right now but at least there are options. I can do the labor myself with a buddy. But you answered my next question already...you do need aftermarket control arms and toe bolts with coils huh?

 

Yes and no. You need aftermarket camber arms if you lower the car and want to specify the camber. Otherwise, you get what you get.

For example, I have SPC arms in the back dropped on Tein CO's, and I specifically selected a -2.2* camber to suit my preferences. However, with my OEM parts in the front dropped on Swift Springs, my front camber is -1.2* and -1.7* respectively. I would like it to be the same side-to-side, but there's really nothing I can do about it until I upgrade those parts, too.

There are a number of manufacturers for Camber & Toe kits. (SPC, SPL, Cusco, Whiteline, etc.) A "kit" typically means rear camber arms with elongated toe bolts, and front control arms. Pricing ranges from $500 to well over a grand. SPL seems to be very high-end, high-quality components, and consequently very expensive. But honestly, for a DD, I suspect you're splitting hairs on functionality, and they're all good.

I'm no expert by any means, this is just me repeating what's on the top of my head, right or wrong. You need to research this fully. Take your time... no one has a gun to your head.

These titanium beauties here are SPL rear camber arms for the G... and they run $300. (drool, drool)



And this gorgeous piece of engineering is the SPL front control arm for the G... and they run $850/pair.



If ever there were a time for the phrase, "You gotta pay to play"... this is one of those times.