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My RB Project, going all in!

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Old 02-14-2013, 05:57 PM
  #391  
Elperuano
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Originally Posted by Legz
Guy's from Dubai, pocket's too deep to let the project die lol
Thissss!!! Hahahaha
Old 02-18-2013, 04:12 PM
  #392  
G37Sam
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Aaaaaand we're back on track!



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Old 02-18-2013, 04:41 PM
  #393  
dal1307
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Nice! I can't wait to see it all back together.
Old 02-18-2013, 07:42 PM
  #394  
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Now that thar is purdy.
Old 02-18-2013, 07:47 PM
  #395  
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My mouth is dripping!!!!!!
Old 02-19-2013, 03:37 AM
  #396  
G37Sam
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Yeah I almost came all over them yesterday haha
Old 02-19-2013, 04:08 AM
  #397  
DeamonG37s
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^^ bahahahaha rofl

This thread is like Gran Turismo port and polished, turbo upgrade, car wash. Hold on let me pause the race.
Old 02-19-2013, 05:54 AM
  #398  
ashmostro
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Get a room with your parts. Sheesh.

Old 02-19-2013, 08:34 AM
  #399  
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:55 AM
  #400  
daonlyillwiz
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Are you reusing the block ? if so make sure you get it THROUGHLY CLEANED i mean THOROUGHLY!! take off all the oil squirters and clean them etc... also if you had an oil cooler make sure you REPLACE it, dont clean it because once you destroy a bearing those metal shavings are everywhere and tend to get stuck in the fins of the oil cooler. Just make sure you get all the oil passages thoroughly cleaned both on the block and the head and make sure you check clearances and torque on rod/main caps, theres a special procedure ARP rod bolts need to be torqued down and also a special torque spec as well...if i was you get ARP main bolts, ARPL19 Rod bolts, and ARP L19 head studs, dont get the cheaper ARP bolts, they stretch @500hp, trust me i know lol.

That bearing is a sign that something somewhere was wrong, looks like detonation judging from the looks of it, i say this because the bearing looks like it was crushed and that is typically the result of detonation.

I crushed a crank main bearing as well as 2 rod bearings as well as OVALIZED my crank journals due to detonation caused by my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line bursting @9500rpm in my evo...and it looked like this.


PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,

Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.

Last edited by daonlyillwiz; 02-19-2013 at 11:03 AM.
Old 02-20-2013, 11:27 AM
  #401  
G37Sam
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Originally Posted by daonlyillwiz
Are you reusing the block ? if so make sure you get it THROUGHLY CLEANED i mean THOROUGHLY!! take off all the oil squirters and clean them etc...
I'll be using the newer block that I bought with its crankshaft. It will be properly cleaned anyways.

also if you had an oil cooler make sure you REPLACE it, dont clean it because once you destroy a bearing those metal shavings are everywhere and tend to get stuck in the fins of the oil cooler.
But I thought an oil filter's job was to take care of that? Would the shavings make it through the filter.

Just make sure you get all the oil passages thoroughly cleaned both on the block and the head and make sure you check clearances and torque on rod/main caps, theres a special procedure ARP rod bolts need to be torqued down and also a special torque spec as well...if i was you get ARP main bolts, ARPL19 Rod bolts, and ARP L19 head studs, dont get the cheaper ARP bolts, they stretch @500hp, trust me i know lol.
Noted!

That bearing is a sign that something somewhere was wrong, looks like detonation judging from the looks of it, i say this because the bearing looks like it was crushed and that is typically the result of detonation.
The A/F mix looked fine as we were tuning and the pistons had no sign of detonation on them

I crushed a crank main bearing as well as 2 rod bearings as well as OVALIZED my crank journals due to detonation caused by my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line bursting @9500rpm in my evo...and it looked like this.

PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,

Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.
Let's see how these suckers hold up for now, I'm not shooting for 1000hp (yet ) so these should be fine. The next time we open up the engine I'm stroking that biatch!

Thanks a lot for your informative post
Old 02-20-2013, 01:44 PM
  #402  
daonlyillwiz
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Originally Posted by G37Sam
But I thought an oil filter's job was to take care of that? Would the shavings make it through the filter.

Thanks a lot for your informative post

Yes its the oil filters job to take any contaminants out HOWEVER when were talking about tiny shavings smaller than a grain of sand, they can get past the filter, and another thing too im not sure how you have your oil feed line hooked up for your turbo but unless its coming out of the oil filter housing (AKA FILTERED OIL) then its very likely that any shavings/contaminants would have made their way to the cooler through that way. Otherwise you would have very very tiny shavings that may have gone through the filter into the cooler.

Just ask your self this, is it worth risking a 2000$ + motor and your turbo for a 60$ oil cooler ?
Old 02-20-2013, 03:53 PM
  #403  
G37Sam
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That's a valid point, they're a bit more than $60 shipped to the UAE though
Old 02-20-2013, 04:09 PM
  #404  
daonlyillwiz
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Originally Posted by G37Sam
That's a valid point, they're a bit more than $60 shipped to the UAE though


Yea i forgot

Good luck with the new build just make sure everything is within spec, make sure machinist checks clearances for the new bearings, sometimes you might need to mix oversized and standard size bearings to accommodate equal clearances for all the rods/main bearings...and also measure the bore on the new block and make sure it complies with clearance specs for the pistons because forged pistons have different expansion rates than cast or different types of forged material pistons. better to be safe than sorry.

ps: really cool to see a real build, i like this type of stuff lol.
Old 02-20-2013, 04:14 PM
  #405  
G37Sam
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The pistons I got are 0.5mm oversize (86.5mm) and all the bearings are 0.25mm oversize too. This way, everything can be machined to fit easily


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