You're absolutely right, @BULL . It worked out perfectly.

And even though the new SS bolts were 30mm long, it didn't matter. I used 22 of them, including the black nylon washers, which was the entire undertray and the bolts for the little side flaps. Ended up with a small bag full of rusty OEM hardware that promptly went into the trash. Everything is solid and rust-free, and it looks fantastic. Not that anyone but me or the occasional mechanic would ever see, but that's a given.

I wonder if I should look at the rear undertray now?

 

Including the new steering wheel and seat repair, that makes the 2024 list of car stuff:

Powder coated rebuilt calipers
Z1 aluminum heater-hose connector
New OEM thermostat
Coolant flush & fill
Replaced the Z1 transmission mount with OEM
Remounted the roof wing
Fender graphics
Driver seat leather restoration
Leather wrapped steering wheel
SS undertray bolts

Considering the last two years were nada, this is a good list.

According to my records, I've spent $2400 this year on the car.

 

Here's my driver seat again:



Recall the restoration process was basically a prep & paint with special cleaner and some kind of latex (?) carefully color matched and sprayed on with an airbrush. It's not perfect, but it's worlds better than the nasty looking mess it covers up.

Anyway, since getting this done, I've been using a white pillowcase between me and the center seat panels whenever I'm wearing jeans. If I'm wearing slacks or shorts, I don't bother. But I'm thinking over a decade of jeans wearing down on the leather... I don't really know, it's just a guess. Sometimes instead of the linen pillowcase, I use a microfiber towel, either one.

My problem is that on really hot days, both will literally stick to the seat, and I have to peal it off, all the while freaking out wondering if I'm going to peal off the sprayed on coating.

So my question... what else can I use besides microfiber or white linen? Anybody have any suggestions? I'm totally open to ideas before I try reaching out to the leather repair guy with questions.

 

I'm surprised a microfiber will stick. Maybe something satin-y? Like a silk pillowcase?

 

I reached out to the guy who did the leather restoration, and he said it would be a good idea to reapply a stronger layer of topcoat. "reinforce the topcoat" is what he wrote.

So he's going to swing by next week for a follow-up, and I feel better about this already. Glad I contacted him.

 

I love finding good specialty vendors.

Thoughts on what we could do to customize that rear undertray?

This is a bit much:

 

I never really looked into it beyond having an offhand opinion. I think these rear undertray replacements with diffuser panels is just too much for the sedan. Maybe if it were more subtle, but I'm not familiar with the options.

 

I have that sitting on a shelf. My rear undertray was pretty rusty; the extractor will need some trimming/bending but it's ABS so a heat gun and you're set. To be honest, it's not as aggressive in person. BUT absolutely not plug-and-play.

 

Leather Restoration guy is here again working on the driver seat. He decided to remove all his work from a couple months ago and start over with a different mix.

Yikes! Didn't expect all that. Hope it works out. If I'm still unsatisfied next year, then I'm going to have to pursue the traditional route at the upholsterer.


[edit]

He just left, and once again the driver's seat looks pristine, as if it were brand new. We discussed a lot of things, and he said if this becomes an issue again that we can go the traditional route, and he would do it for $400 (which is far less than the $700 estimates I was given elsewhere.) We would remove the seat together, and take it back to his shop where he would skin the seat, cut, match and sew in new panels, then bring the seat back and reinstall.

So either way, this is huge peace of mind. Either the restoration holds, or we take this up again later with replacement. It's all good.

Damn fine customer service.

 

Jeez that's a good deal.

Wonder if I could mail my seat covers to him and have him redo parts...

 

Probably. PM me if you want.

 

I will, likely Monday. This Friday/weekend is B-u-s-y.

 

In another thread, @Entcee posted this excellent pic of the rear end of his Sedan, and shocked me by letting me know the wrap on his lower rear bumper isn't actually a wrap like mine, it's just PlastiDip.

That got me to thinking, could I use Plastidip to correct the sight lines at the corner of my bumper wrap? This has bothered me since I had the bumper wrapped, which was literally 12 years ago, so... a long time. The vinyl is matte black, and standard PlastiDip is matte black. So I bought a can this evening, with intention to play with this idea. First up would be to spray a swatch that I can see how well it works with the vinyl, if at all.

For years and years, I've put "re-wrap the bumper" on my list, and it just keeps falling to the bottom. So I've been thinking that Spring of 2025 I would either have it re-wrapped, or just full-on painted by a professional shop. But hey, if I can touch it up to where it's good enough... IDK, maybe worth a try.

Here's what I'm referring to (see pic). This particular picture really shows the problem, with just the right angle and light. That said, I've seen it every day for 12 years now.

 

DipYourCar sells a new version of plastidip called hyperdip. It gives a much smoother and shinier finish and is more durable.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/collectio...erdip-aerosols

 

I have heard good things about hyperdip results but heard it is marginally harder to apply. One key being to start with quite a few light dusting coats.

I have considered re-doing my bumper with the hyperdip gloss piano black, but like Rochester, that project keeps falling down the list... and I may want paint.