Help Maintenance and replacement of suspension parts
Maintenance and replacement of suspension parts
I have coilovers that were put on the car probably somewhere around 75k+ miles and have owned the car since 83k. It's now at 102k.
I have Z1 street camber arms and that eccentric lockout.
Other than this, the suspension is stock, unless you count a diff brace lol.
I noticed my front right tire wore down to the wire real fast and the alignment was fine. I'm noticing my rear right tire is now starting to wear earlier than expected.
A friend told me with the car being a 2012 I probably need to replace suspension parts. I'd like to rule those out as an issue and replace them, but I don't know what parts to replace. He did mention something about bushings and ball joints, though.
So I'm wondering what parts and part numbers I could replace for suspension, and if there are any good aftermarket options instead of buying OEM. I just want to do a total refresh of the suspension and make sure it's all working properly.
I have Z1 street camber arms and that eccentric lockout.
Other than this, the suspension is stock, unless you count a diff brace lol.
I noticed my front right tire wore down to the wire real fast and the alignment was fine. I'm noticing my rear right tire is now starting to wear earlier than expected.
A friend told me with the car being a 2012 I probably need to replace suspension parts. I'd like to rule those out as an issue and replace them, but I don't know what parts to replace. He did mention something about bushings and ball joints, though.
So I'm wondering what parts and part numbers I could replace for suspension, and if there are any good aftermarket options instead of buying OEM. I just want to do a total refresh of the suspension and make sure it's all working properly.
Last edited by AnotherVQ; Apr 24, 2024 at 04:28 PM.
Registered Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 37
From: Dallas, TX
Your friend is probably right. Over 100k miles and 12 year old bushings are probably allowing for unwanted movement in the suspension. Even if the alignment machine is correct things will quickly go out of spec when the suspension goes through its articulation range. There are plenty of options for replacements for these cars. Going OEM or OE equivalent will be the most wallet-friendly option with the least headaches. If you want a sportier driving car, urethane bushings may be the way to go. If you want to go the no-compromise approach there are ‘solid’ spherical bearing bushings. Urethane bushings will be cheaper than solid but, I've found it hard to find a comprehensive urethane kit that doesn't have fitment issues per the reviews. Seeing as you're on coilovers, I'm assuming the ride height is lower than stock so transitioning to fully adjustable suspension arms might be beneficial.
The ball joints on these cars are located on the FUCA, FLCA, and RUCA and are a single unit with the control arms themselves and cannot be serviced by themselves. Most aftermarket ‘performance’ control arms are designed so that this is serviceable. Lots of aftermarket options for the FUCA, but not so much for the FLCA, and RUCA. GKtech and Wisefab are the only two brands I know that sell aftermarket FLCAs and RUCAs but it will run $1.5k-$2K. The good news is that if/when the ball joints go out you'll only have to replace the $15 bearing instead of the entire control arm.
I circled the part numbers in the images and a few other areas w/o part numbers that should be looked at like the ones on the rear knuckle. Usually, these bushings are generic and you can find an OE equivalent replacement on Rock Auto for around $10.
The ball joints on these cars are located on the FUCA, FLCA, and RUCA and are a single unit with the control arms themselves and cannot be serviced by themselves. Most aftermarket ‘performance’ control arms are designed so that this is serviceable. Lots of aftermarket options for the FUCA, but not so much for the FLCA, and RUCA. GKtech and Wisefab are the only two brands I know that sell aftermarket FLCAs and RUCAs but it will run $1.5k-$2K. The good news is that if/when the ball joints go out you'll only have to replace the $15 bearing instead of the entire control arm.
I circled the part numbers in the images and a few other areas w/o part numbers that should be looked at like the ones on the rear knuckle. Usually, these bushings are generic and you can find an OE equivalent replacement on Rock Auto for around $10.
Your friend is probably right. Over 100k miles and 12 year old bushings are probably allowing for unwanted movement in the suspension. Even if the alignment machine is correct things will quickly go out of spec when the suspension goes through its articulation range. There are plenty of options for replacements for these cars. Going OEM or OE equivalent will be the most wallet-friendly option with the least headaches. If you want a sportier driving car, urethane bushings may be the way to go. If you want to go the no-compromise approach there are ‘solid’ spherical bearing bushings. Urethane bushings will be cheaper than solid but, I've found it hard to find a comprehensive urethane kit that doesn't have fitment issues per the reviews. Seeing as you're on coilovers, I'm assuming the ride height is lower than stock so transitioning to fully adjustable suspension arms might be beneficial.
The ball joints on these cars are located on the FUCA, FLCA, and RUCA and are a single unit with the control arms themselves and cannot be serviced by themselves. Most aftermarket ‘performance’ control arms are designed so that this is serviceable. Lots of aftermarket options for the FUCA, but not so much for the FLCA, and RUCA. GKtech and Wisefab are the only two brands I know that sell aftermarket FLCAs and RUCAs but it will run $1.5k-$2K. The good news is that if/when the ball joints go out you'll only have to replace the $15 bearing instead of the entire control arm.
I circled the part numbers in the images and a few other areas w/o part numbers that should be looked at like the ones on the rear knuckle. Usually, these bushings are generic and you can find an OE equivalent replacement on Rock Auto for around $10.
The ball joints on these cars are located on the FUCA, FLCA, and RUCA and are a single unit with the control arms themselves and cannot be serviced by themselves. Most aftermarket ‘performance’ control arms are designed so that this is serviceable. Lots of aftermarket options for the FUCA, but not so much for the FLCA, and RUCA. GKtech and Wisefab are the only two brands I know that sell aftermarket FLCAs and RUCAs but it will run $1.5k-$2K. The good news is that if/when the ball joints go out you'll only have to replace the $15 bearing instead of the entire control arm.
I circled the part numbers in the images and a few other areas w/o part numbers that should be looked at like the ones on the rear knuckle. Usually, these bushings are generic and you can find an OE equivalent replacement on Rock Auto for around $10.
Either way, the problem I'm having is when I'm looking at the first image, asnd looking up part 54613, it's not clear which one to get. So I moved on to 54618 and it's for REAR sway bar end links. That made me think that 54613 is a rear bushing. Then I moved on to 54500 and these are for the front. Are there no rear lower control arms so these are fronts? It's always confusing when looking up parts from these diagrams.
(As I kept going, some parts were cheaper on Discount Infiniti by a good amount)
Unless I'm wrong, here's a list of things for the first image:
$23.62 (2 stabilizer bar bushing REAR) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...n-p-10591.html
$45.24 (BOTH rear sway bar end links) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...k-p-27166.html
$271.83 (DRIVER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
$271.83 (PASSENGER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
Moving on to the second image:
$25.00 (2 rear stabilizer bushings) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...zer-562434ra0a
For 56261N and 56261NA: these numbers don't exist on Z1 or Discount Infiniti Parts, but on Discount I found various 56261 parts which their site says doesn't fit my car, but suggests rear sway bar end links that fit. Why are these parts circled? are they actually applicable to my 2012 G37s Sedan RWD?
$179.99 (2 rear adjustable traction arms) https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...s-p-12038.html (the OEM ones are a few dollars difference from Z1 ones)
For 551A0: I already have Z1 camber arms.
$246.22 (right upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555011ba0a
$224.83 (left upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555021ba0a
For all the circled things without part numbers (highlighted in image), I don't understand how I'm supposed to find the right bushings on Rock Auto or anywhere else:
So how accurate is this list? How do I find the highlighted parts? Am I missing any parts?
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,002
Likes: 592
From: San Diego, CA
I have coilovers that were put on the car probably somewhere around 75k+ miles and have owned the car since 83k. It's now at 102k.
I have Z1 street camber arms and that eccentric lockout.
Other than this, the suspension is stock, unless you count a diff brace lol.
I noticed my front right tire wore down to the wire real fast and the alignment was fine. I'm noticing my rear right tire is now starting to wear earlier than expected.
A friend told me with the car being a 2012 I probably need to replace suspension parts. I'd like to rule those out as an issue and replace them, but I don't know what parts to replace. He did mention something about bushings and ball joints, though.
So I'm wondering what parts and part numbers I could replace for suspension, and if there are any good aftermarket options instead of buying OEM. I just want to do a total refresh of the suspension and make sure it's all working properly.
I have Z1 street camber arms and that eccentric lockout.
Other than this, the suspension is stock, unless you count a diff brace lol.
I noticed my front right tire wore down to the wire real fast and the alignment was fine. I'm noticing my rear right tire is now starting to wear earlier than expected.
A friend told me with the car being a 2012 I probably need to replace suspension parts. I'd like to rule those out as an issue and replace them, but I don't know what parts to replace. He did mention something about bushings and ball joints, though.
So I'm wondering what parts and part numbers I could replace for suspension, and if there are any good aftermarket options instead of buying OEM. I just want to do a total refresh of the suspension and make sure it's all working properly.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,002
Likes: 592
From: San Diego, CA
What's unusual is that it sounds like they are wearing more on one side only, and I am assuming the wear is even and the air pressure is correct.
It's like the toe is off on one side, essentially dragging the tires more on that side. If it were the front only, I'd lean towards a worn ball joint, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, or even wheel bearing (would cause noise); front only is more common.
Since the rear is wearing evenly at the same rate, I'm leaning towards alignment being off on the right side. I would have a competent shop check it out before dumping money on replacement bushings and suspension HW. The platform is pretty tried and proven, and I have rarely seen anyone replacing those items at ~10 years. Have you also checked the 370Z forum?
Personally, I try to get an alignment every 8 months or so since I feel the "adjustable" nature of the UCAs and camber arms lends itself to more frequent adjustments based on road conditions. Here in SoCal, it literally rained from Halloween 2023 till April 2024 and the roads took a beating. I am pretty good at dodging those massive cracks in our mostly concrete roads, but sometimes I miscalculate and the blow to the suspension makes me cringe.
It's like the toe is off on one side, essentially dragging the tires more on that side. If it were the front only, I'd lean towards a worn ball joint, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, or even wheel bearing (would cause noise); front only is more common.
Since the rear is wearing evenly at the same rate, I'm leaning towards alignment being off on the right side. I would have a competent shop check it out before dumping money on replacement bushings and suspension HW. The platform is pretty tried and proven, and I have rarely seen anyone replacing those items at ~10 years. Have you also checked the 370Z forum?
Personally, I try to get an alignment every 8 months or so since I feel the "adjustable" nature of the UCAs and camber arms lends itself to more frequent adjustments based on road conditions. Here in SoCal, it literally rained from Halloween 2023 till April 2024 and the roads took a beating. I am pretty good at dodging those massive cracks in our mostly concrete roads, but sometimes I miscalculate and the blow to the suspension makes me cringe.
What's unusual is that it sounds like they are wearing more on one side only, and I am assuming the wear is even and the air pressure is correct.
It's like the toe is off on one side, essentially dragging the tires more on that side. If it were the front only, I'd lean towards a worn ball joint, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, or even wheel bearing (would cause noise); front only is more common.
Since the rear is wearing evenly at the same rate, I'm leaning towards alignment being off on the right side. I would have a competent shop check it out before dumping money on replacement bushings and suspension HW. The platform is pretty tried and proven, and I have rarely seen anyone replacing those items at ~10 years. Have you also checked the 370Z forum?
Personally, I try to get an alignment every 8 months or so since I feel the "adjustable" nature of the UCAs and camber arms lends itself to more frequent adjustments based on road conditions. Here in SoCal, it literally rained from Halloween 23 till April 24 and the roads took a beating. I am pretty good at dodging those massive cracks in our mostly concrete roads, but sometimes I miscalculate and the blow to the suspension makes me cringe.
It's like the toe is off on one side, essentially dragging the tires more on that side. If it were the front only, I'd lean towards a worn ball joint, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, or even wheel bearing (would cause noise); front only is more common.
Since the rear is wearing evenly at the same rate, I'm leaning towards alignment being off on the right side. I would have a competent shop check it out before dumping money on replacement bushings and suspension HW. The platform is pretty tried and proven, and I have rarely seen anyone replacing those items at ~10 years. Have you also checked the 370Z forum?
Personally, I try to get an alignment every 8 months or so since I feel the "adjustable" nature of the UCAs and camber arms lends itself to more frequent adjustments based on road conditions. Here in SoCal, it literally rained from Halloween 23 till April 24 and the roads took a beating. I am pretty good at dodging those massive cracks in our mostly concrete roads, but sometimes I miscalculate and the blow to the suspension makes me cringe.
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Administrator
Joined: Aug 2012
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Likes: 592
From: San Diego, CA
I quickly checked the 370Z forum and only found threads related to uneven wear on one side, front or rear only. I like to check there for platform and engine issues as the Z/G are from the same DNA.
Now that the 370/G37s are over a decade old, I wish that we could merge the two communities as I think we stand to gain alot of tribal knowledge from one another.
Now that the 370/G37s are over a decade old, I wish that we could merge the two communities as I think we stand to gain alot of tribal knowledge from one another.
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 37
From: Dallas, TX
Thanks a lot for all the information. I've been looking on Discount Infiniti Parts and found out that the same things are available for less on Z1.
Either way, the problem I'm having is when I'm looking at the first image, asnd looking up part 54613, it's not clear which one to get. So I moved on to 54618 and it's for REAR sway bar end links. That made me think that 54613 is a rear bushing. Then I moved on to 54500 and these are for the front. Are there no rear lower control arms so these are fronts? It's always confusing when looking up parts from these diagrams.
(As I kept going, some parts were cheaper on Discount Infiniti by a good amount)
Unless I'm wrong, here's a list of things for the first image:
$23.62 (2 stabilizer bar bushing REAR) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...n-p-10591.html
$45.24 (BOTH rear sway bar end links) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...k-p-27166.html
$271.83 (DRIVER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
$271.83 (PASSENGER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
Moving on to the second image:
$25.00 (2 rear stabilizer bushings) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...zer-562434ra0a
For 56261N and 56261NA: these numbers don't exist on Z1 or Discount Infiniti Parts, but on Discount I found various 56261 parts which their site says doesn't fit my car, but suggests rear sway bar end links that fit. Why are these parts circled? are they actually applicable to my 2012 G37s Sedan RWD?
$179.99 (2 rear adjustable traction arms) https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...s-p-12038.html (the OEM ones are a few dollars difference from Z1 ones)
For 551A0: I already have Z1 camber arms.
$246.22 (right upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555011ba0a
$224.83 (left upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555021ba0a
For all the circled things without part numbers (highlighted in image), I don't understand how I'm supposed to find the right bushings on Rock Auto or anywhere else:
So how accurate is this list? How do I find the highlighted parts? Am I missing any parts?
Either way, the problem I'm having is when I'm looking at the first image, asnd looking up part 54613, it's not clear which one to get. So I moved on to 54618 and it's for REAR sway bar end links. That made me think that 54613 is a rear bushing. Then I moved on to 54500 and these are for the front. Are there no rear lower control arms so these are fronts? It's always confusing when looking up parts from these diagrams.
(As I kept going, some parts were cheaper on Discount Infiniti by a good amount)
Unless I'm wrong, here's a list of things for the first image:
$23.62 (2 stabilizer bar bushing REAR) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...n-p-10591.html
$45.24 (BOTH rear sway bar end links) https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...k-p-27166.html
$271.83 (DRIVER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
$271.83 (PASSENGER front lower control arm assembly) https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...t-p-13330.html
Moving on to the second image:
$25.00 (2 rear stabilizer bushings) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...zer-562434ra0a
For 56261N and 56261NA: these numbers don't exist on Z1 or Discount Infiniti Parts, but on Discount I found various 56261 parts which their site says doesn't fit my car, but suggests rear sway bar end links that fit. Why are these parts circled? are they actually applicable to my 2012 G37s Sedan RWD?
$179.99 (2 rear adjustable traction arms) https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...s-p-12038.html (the OEM ones are a few dollars difference from Z1 ones)
For 551A0: I already have Z1 camber arms.
$246.22 (right upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555011ba0a
$224.83 (left upper control arm) https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...arm-555021ba0a
For all the circled things without part numbers (highlighted in image), I don't understand how I'm supposed to find the right bushings on Rock Auto or anywhere else:
So how accurate is this list? How do I find the highlighted parts? Am I missing any parts?
I was able to find 56219-AL500 which is the bushing that connects to the rear shock and doubles as the spring bucket bushing. 55157-AL500 connects the spring bucket to the knuckle. On Z1 55157-AL500 is listed as fitting 350z/G35 although, I'm fairly certain that the 350z/g35 share the same rear knuckle g37/370z, so bushings are cross-compatible.
As for the other knuckle bushings, I could not find any being sold that listed a part number however, I grabbed this off GKtech's website. It lists the measurements of all the rear knuckle bushings. Might be good info if you can find a merchant that provides you with the measurements of their bushings. I've personally installed this Gktech kit on my car with zero issues
Regarding the highlighted areas. For the differential bushing which is centered on the subframe, there is no OEM PN. There are a few OE quality aftermarket replacements and a lot of performance aftermarket replacements. The only way to get that bushing from the OEM is to buy an entire new subframe.
I was able to find 56219-AL500 which is the bushing that connects to the rear shock and doubles as the spring bucket bushing. 55157-AL500 connects the spring bucket to the knuckle. On Z1 55157-AL500 is listed as fitting 350z/G35 although, I'm fairly certain that the 350z/g35 share the same rear knuckle g37/370z, so bushings are cross-compatible.
As for the other knuckle bushings, I could not find any being sold that listed a part number however, I grabbed this off GKtech's website. It lists the measurements of all the rear knuckle bushings. Might be good info if you can find a merchant that provides you with the measurements of their bushings. I've personally installed this Gktech kit on my car with zero issues
I was able to find 56219-AL500 which is the bushing that connects to the rear shock and doubles as the spring bucket bushing. 55157-AL500 connects the spring bucket to the knuckle. On Z1 55157-AL500 is listed as fitting 350z/G35 although, I'm fairly certain that the 350z/g35 share the same rear knuckle g37/370z, so bushings are cross-compatible.
As for the other knuckle bushings, I could not find any being sold that listed a part number however, I grabbed this off GKtech's website. It lists the measurements of all the rear knuckle bushings. Might be good info if you can find a merchant that provides you with the measurements of their bushings. I've personally installed this Gktech kit on my car with zero issues
Is there a way I can find out if bushings are actually bad before buying? Do you have a link to the GKTECH kit you're referring to?
I just looked at my tires again after I did an 800+ mile round trip and the rear right is now worse than it was before. The left looks like it's wearing inside but it isn't as bad.
So now I have to buy another new tire (and these are DWS06+) so I'd really like to get the for sure resolution as soon as possible so I can avoid having to buy these early over and over... seeing as I just replaced the right front tire a couople months ago and it wasn't that old.
Or if it's possible to list the parts I should replace in total, that would help.. the problem is the diagram includes a bunch of things, some bushings, some not.. and some of the things have no part number and there's no way to determine what to get.
Also, I found this one which is the same part you were talking about for G35s, but for a G37: https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...g-p-12556.html
Last edited by AnotherVQ; May 6, 2024 at 04:57 PM.
Registered Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 167
Likes: 37
From: Dallas, TX
My diff bushing is already upgraded by the previous owner. I didn't realize that's what one of those was.
Is there a way I can find out if bushings are actually bad before buying? Do you have a link to the GKTECH kit you're referring to?
I just looked at my tires again after I did an 800+ mile round trip and the rear right is now worse than it was before. The left looks like it's wearing inside but it isn't as bad.
So now I have to buy another new tire (and these are DWS06+) so I'd really like to get the for sure resolution as soon as possible so I can avoid having to buy these early over and over... seeing as I just replaced the right front tire a couople months ago and it wasn't that old.
Or if it's possible to list the parts I should replace in total, that would help.. the problem is the diagram includes a bunch of things, some bushings, some not.. and some of the things have no part number and there's no way to determine what to get.
Also, I found this one which is the same part you were talking about for G35s, but for a G37: https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...g-p-12556.html
Is there a way I can find out if bushings are actually bad before buying? Do you have a link to the GKTECH kit you're referring to?
I just looked at my tires again after I did an 800+ mile round trip and the rear right is now worse than it was before. The left looks like it's wearing inside but it isn't as bad.
So now I have to buy another new tire (and these are DWS06+) so I'd really like to get the for sure resolution as soon as possible so I can avoid having to buy these early over and over... seeing as I just replaced the right front tire a couople months ago and it wasn't that old.
Or if it's possible to list the parts I should replace in total, that would help.. the problem is the diagram includes a bunch of things, some bushings, some not.. and some of the things have no part number and there's no way to determine what to get.
Also, I found this one which is the same part you were talking about for G35s, but for a G37: https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-s...g-p-12556.html
if you determine that your bushings are the problem I would recommend replacing as many as you can. I’m not sure about PN’s aside from the ones I listed earlier, but most of them can be purchased by themselves, but it will probably be easier to find them already preinstalled on new arms/knuckles.
-knuckle bushings (camber arm, traction arm, spring bucket, shock tower)
-tractions arms
-spring buckets
-upper control arms
https://us.gktech.com/products/350z-...grade-set-of-8 here is the link to the GKTECH kit. They cover the knuckle and most other bushings on these cars. For most people, going with solid bushings isn’t the way to go. The ride/NVH will be considerably harsher. They can also allow the energy from going over potholes and bumps to transfer into the frame and driveline much easier than their rubber or urethane counterparts. That said, if you are looking to dial in the handling of your car, go to the track, or carve canyons they may be a worthwhile upgrade.
The best way to find out if the bushings are bad is by looking at them. If the rubber has cracks or fissures that’s a tell-tale sign they need to be replaced. The main issue you’ll probably have with that is it’s not easy to get a good look at them without unbolting the suspension arms. Most of these bushings are filled with a fluid, so if the rubber cracks and lets out all the fluid, it’s pretty much useless for keeping all the arms where they need to be. You could try unbolting the traction arm and twisting it. It should require a good amount of force to deflect it. If it’s easy to twist the bushing is bad. Take a look at the ball joints on the rear upper control arms too. If the rubber boot has cracks or fissures, it’s probably seen plenty of wear, but it may not necessarily be bad.
if you determine that your bushings are the problem I would recommend replacing as many as you can. I’m not sure about PN’s aside from the ones I listed earlier, but most of them can be purchased by themselves, but it will probably be easier to find them already preinstalled on new arms/knuckles.
-knuckle bushings (camber arm, traction arm, spring bucket, shock tower)
-tractions arms
-spring buckets
-upper control arms
https://us.gktech.com/products/350z-...grade-set-of-8 here is the link to the GKTECH kit. They cover the knuckle and most other bushings on these cars. For most people, going with solid bushings isn’t the way to go. The ride/NVH will be considerably harsher. They can also allow the energy from going over potholes and bumps to transfer into the frame and driveline much easier than their rubber or urethane counterparts. That said, if you are looking to dial in the handling of your car, go to the track, or carve canyons they may be a worthwhile upgrade.
if you determine that your bushings are the problem I would recommend replacing as many as you can. I’m not sure about PN’s aside from the ones I listed earlier, but most of them can be purchased by themselves, but it will probably be easier to find them already preinstalled on new arms/knuckles.
-knuckle bushings (camber arm, traction arm, spring bucket, shock tower)
-tractions arms
-spring buckets
-upper control arms
https://us.gktech.com/products/350z-...grade-set-of-8 here is the link to the GKTECH kit. They cover the knuckle and most other bushings on these cars. For most people, going with solid bushings isn’t the way to go. The ride/NVH will be considerably harsher. They can also allow the energy from going over potholes and bumps to transfer into the frame and driveline much easier than their rubber or urethane counterparts. That said, if you are looking to dial in the handling of your car, go to the track, or carve canyons they may be a worthwhile upgrade.
I went by Firestone and looked underneath with the employee.
He's claiming the bushings are fine and everything else is fine.
He also found that the jam nut on the right camber arm was totally loose, meaning the previous employee at the other location didn't tighten it, which is probably why my tires are wearing so fast.
I already replaced the right front a couple months ago, and I noticed the right rear was bad before my trip to Alabama. Now I found out the front left is bad (down to the wire) too. The left rear is close to that point but still no wire.
So I'm currently trying to get the area manager for Firestone to give me a call back so I can ask him to comp my tires since the employee is responsible for the excessive tire wear. I'm not even going to ask for the cost of the front right tire (and the mount and balance) I paid for, even though really they should pay me back for that. If I can't get the tire comp'd I'll probably take him up on his offer to refund my lifetime alignment package, because I've been having nothing but issues from Firestone, and the entire reason I went to this other location where the guy didn't tigthen the jam nut (they were extremely rude last time I went there, too) was because the first one I went to scratched up my wheels when balancing them and couldn't align it because as they said "the toe changes when I fix the camber". The one in my city doesn't have an in-ground rack and refuses to do it, and the one I was going to originally (where they scratched the wheels) had someone who's experienced in lowered cars and does a good job on them. I told the front desk only he should be working on it and they claimed they were adding that to the notes, but did not. The guy who worked on it was clueless.
Alignment data from today:
He's claiming the bushings are fine and everything else is fine.
He also found that the jam nut on the right camber arm was totally loose, meaning the previous employee at the other location didn't tighten it, which is probably why my tires are wearing so fast.
I already replaced the right front a couple months ago, and I noticed the right rear was bad before my trip to Alabama. Now I found out the front left is bad (down to the wire) too. The left rear is close to that point but still no wire.
So I'm currently trying to get the area manager for Firestone to give me a call back so I can ask him to comp my tires since the employee is responsible for the excessive tire wear. I'm not even going to ask for the cost of the front right tire (and the mount and balance) I paid for, even though really they should pay me back for that. If I can't get the tire comp'd I'll probably take him up on his offer to refund my lifetime alignment package, because I've been having nothing but issues from Firestone, and the entire reason I went to this other location where the guy didn't tigthen the jam nut (they were extremely rude last time I went there, too) was because the first one I went to scratched up my wheels when balancing them and couldn't align it because as they said "the toe changes when I fix the camber". The one in my city doesn't have an in-ground rack and refuses to do it, and the one I was going to originally (where they scratched the wheels) had someone who's experienced in lowered cars and does a good job on them. I told the front desk only he should be working on it and they claimed they were adding that to the notes, but did not. The guy who worked on it was clueless.
Alignment data from today:
Last edited by AnotherVQ; May 11, 2024 at 02:38 PM.
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