On ebay, for the camber arms you can find sellers that take offers, which I did and got them much cheaper than the asking price. The camber kits are interchangeable between the RWD, and AWD.

 

Upgrade your sway bars and sway end links. Also check your lower control arm bushings and ball joints. You don’t want a lowered car on busted bushings and ball joints.

 

Hey black did the rwd sway upgrade and also changed end link on them same time. Bushing tho I understand you need remove differential to do? Ball joints I have not at all.

 

Also I'm getting spc camber kits wouldn't that cover the ball joints?

 

There is an abundance of bushings that could be replaced. The differential bushing is known to fail but I don't believe that is what he was referencing here. In the rear there are 4 bushings that I can think of off the top of my head (3 in the knuckle and 1 in the spring bucket) there are a few in the front as well. The biggest offender of these tends to be the rear damper (shock) bushing. Some can be more of a pain than others to replace based on their location. If a shop does them you'll probably pay a bunch in labor as the recommended way is to remove the knuckle and press them out. The damper bushing however can be done DIY with a long grade 8 bolt, nut, slew of washers, 1 1/16 socket and receiver cup from a ball joint press (or much bigger socket). Cost me about $5.00 in hardware to handle myself.

This only covers the front upper ball joint.

There are a lot of components that make up our suspensions. The key is, especially if you're doing the work yourself, to take a good look under the car at all the different components to make sure they're in good shape. If bushings are cracked and worn, replace them, if ***** joints have excessive play or the boots are torn replace them.

 

No, the sway bar does not come with new sway end links. You will have to purchase those separate. I was referencing the front bushings on the lower control arm. The ball joints are unable to be pressed out so if either/or fail you will need to get a brand new lower control arm anyway. As far as the rear bushings, you have your subframe bushings and your rear suspension bushings. As far as the subframe it would require you to remove the whole rear subframe and depending on your timetable it will take more than a weekend UNLESS you get some subframe collars that fit inside the OEM bushings to give it a “solid” feel. I’m sure someone can chime in if they have them. Rear suspension bushings like @KidJai06 said would be way easier to do. The real question is do you want race car (solid) feel? Or OEM feel?

 

Z1 offers the subframe collars and there are at least two threads in the Review forum about them.

 

hey kid you happen to have part # for this part the " damper bushing" will look it up now hopefully can narrow it down.


this ????

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...gs-p-5110.html

 

yea i was lookin into this and think might pull trigger on them just wonder if worth it @ 80k... dont see any visible leaks by differential i guess they are still good

 

i did change the end links when i installed my rwd sway bar. now looking back i kept the old sway bar bushings. wonder if i should of changed those?
Trying stay as close to oem "feel" as possible thus the reason i am going with kyb and just 1 inch lowering springs. Now the z1 collars seem like they might make it feel slightly harsher/solid but not much so i am seriously considering them. Are the rear suspensions bushings you guys referring to this below? i would need 2 ?

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...219-al500.html

 

The collars don't fix this problem, that's the diff bushing kit.

 

If you can afford it get the KONI yellows and pair them with the swift springs. You can adjust the dampening and rebound.

 

wish i could unfortunately i am on a X sedan

 

I went with SPL bushings. Part # SPL RKS Z33. I'm sure there are other aftermarket companies making them too which would be less expensive than SPL. Perhaps check rock auto.