This started not too long ago, but a while after I installed my Akebono BBK. I have Akebono ACT pads and Centric Blank rotors. The sound is similar to nails on a chalkboard. The noise happens in reverse and going forward. It is a very high pitched screech. If it helps, I can get sound clips of it once my car is back on the ground. I have used brake clean on the rotors and calipers, greased up the shims and back of the pads. I tried to re-bed the brakes two days in a row which worked at first, but since my car has been sitting (installing exhaust) the brake screeching came back. It happens when I come to a stop at stoplights, stop signs, backing out of the driveway, pulling forward with brake control, etc. There is zero noise when braking above 10mph. Once I get to speeds below 10mph, the brakes start screeching. It sounds like it's coming from more than one caliper as well. I honestly have no clue what else to do aside from buying new pads/rotors. I don't want to spend all the money on new pads/rotors if it doesn't solve anything. Anyone with any insight or information about what I could do would be greatly appreciated. Yes, I have utilized the search button. I found one similar situation, but the thread never produced a solution. If I'm missing any necessary details, let me know and I can clarify. The sound is ridiculous and embarrassing coming from such a nice car. It's also ear-piercingly loud. Thanks for any advice or help.

 

Put caliper grease behind the pad backing plates and on the side tabs, and if you use shims a small amount between the shim and backing plate then a bit heavier coat on the side of the shim that touches the pistons.
this is the grease I use

 

That's the exact same thing I used on literally every metal-metal contact point. Still didn't fix the issue. I took off the shim to each of the pads and put it between the shim and the brake pad backing, then put a ton on the back of the shim and brake pad, then covered the metal pins with it and I also covered the clips that hold the pins in place with it. Didn't seem to do anything.

There isn't really any unusual markings on the rotors either, they all look okay. This is the only one that looks slightly off.

 

About the only thing you can do (since you've already done the grease) would be to taper the leading edge of the pad w/ an angle grinder. A 30 degree taper for the first 1/4" of the pad should quiet them down.

 

Not to sound like a noob, but I have no clue how to do that. I don't have an angle grinder anyhow, lol. How would that get rid of the brake screeching? If you don't mind explaining what that does, I'm curious.

 

The 90 degree angle at the pad can create a high pitch vibration, tapering the leading edge gets rid of that. Many pads have the edge taper though so yours might be OK.

Here's a thread on this and might have a couple other things you can try
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...6214704AAxbyHF

 

I'll try out that BG Stop Squeal and see if it does anything at all. I don't know what else to do aside from buying new brake pads. Hopefully it works. Thanks, blnewt.

 

Let us know how it works out.

 

Well I've been dealing with this dilemma for a while now. I have Rotora crossdrilled and slotted rotors, with ss lines and motul RBF600 fluid. I have been getting the annoying reverse brake squeal reverse for a while now. So I have brand new EBC yellowstuff pads ready to go on. I had my appointment setup today and was like you know what lets do some testing and see what we can find out. So we removed all the covers, pins, and the pads. Greased every moving part that comes in contact with metal. The squeal is gone for now but I don't know how long it will last. I still want to install the EBC pads for better brake performance. I just wanted to share this info as it might possibly help someone out with fixing the problem without having to spend money on new pads if there not needed.

 

I tried the BG Stop Squeal on the problem pads (front passenger). After application, there was no noise for the rest of the night. I turn on the car this morning expecting no noise and I get the opposite. The same loud and obnoxious noise I got before. One of my friends suggested that maybe my pads are glazed. Does anyone know how to fix that or what I need to do? I would rather fix this myself rather than pay someone else to do it. Does anyone have any advice? I have seen maybe one other thread on here where someone had the same issue, but there was no solution. Here are some pictures of the pads themselves. Any advice on how to fix the issue would be appreciated.









This pad had some sort of web on it. Not sure where the hell it came from, but I wiped it off and sprayed brake cleaner on it.

 

As you have already found out, these pads come with a tapered edge since they are supposed to be quiet.

You have really done all of the best practices to get the pads to quiet down, there may just be some minor issue with that pad that is causing the noise. As you know, I have the same setup (pads/rotors) and it has been exceptionally quiet in all conditions.

This is going to sound like a crappy solution, but you seem desperate, or at least i know I would be if I were in your situation. Advance Auto Parts stocks the ProAct pads, I would buy a set of the front and replace them on the squeaking wheel. Bed them in, you have 2 more shots to get a squeak free setup. They come with an anti-squeal grease too, I am not sure if it differs from the grease that is made by CRC, but who knows if the composition is slightly different that could make a difference.

ProAct Ultra Premium Ceramic Brake Pads - Front (4-Pad Set) ACT1346: Advance Auto Parts

Coupon Code "WD44" for 35% off, which makes the subtotal $46.79. A small price to pay if it solves the problem.

 

That's what I was avoiding, but that seems to be the only solution. :/ Do you think I would need to get my rotors turned or machined for this? If it isn't the pads, then it is something with the caliper.

 

I would imagine the best practice would be to get the one rotor turned. It's a crappy position to be in, but now it's all about isolating the problem. If you turn the rotor and replace the pads you have eliminated all variables except the caliper itself.