Track Bandit

iTrader: (1)

Is there any special technique needed to bleed the brakes on a 2012 G37S brake system. I've read that you have to deactivate the ABS modulator from the battery before you start and then reconnect it after the bleeding is done. Or do I just you a vacuum system which bleeds from each caliper nipple while keeping the master cylinder full. This is what I've done on all my other cars with no problems.

Thanks for the help.

Al

Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

I did a search for you.....

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...-calipers.html

There's a DIY for bleeding the BBK in the above thread.

Index of /FSM/G37

Someone posted the above in another thread with a similar topic last week or so.


I haven't heard of doing anything with the ABS unless there is ALOT of air in the system


Hope that helps

Track Bandit

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link. It's similar to what I've done on all my other cars. But according to your index reference it says the following, "Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or the battery negative terminal before performing the work." Don't understand why that would be necessary since the brake system is off when they are serviced anyhow. I'll ask the dealer on Thursday to get the "official" method when I pick up some stainless brake lines. Thanks again.

Al

joo030879

iTrader: (3)

Another easier way to disconnect or deactivate ABS is just to disconnect Negative Battery cable, which is pointed out on our FSM. This will release trapped fluids inside ABS. However just to release some air trapped this is not required. Our brake lines only support 750ml. As long as you refill master cylinder as you move onto another caliper should be fine. I disconnect Negative cable only whey I flush them out.

Nothing special other than bleeding order is little different from other cars I had before. Starting from Passenger Rear, than Driver Front, than Driver Rear, and Passenger Front. Always bleeding inner nipple first, and moving onto the outer.

I use Power Bleeder from Motive which enables me to bleed my car by myself. But if you have someone to press brake pedals while you bleed, works just fine.

Yeah Our FSM translation is quite confusing. However they do point out all the necessary steps.

Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

I think when have to do that it's because there's air in the entire system.

If yfollow the procedure in that link you should be ok. Remember...there's 2 bleed ports.

soundmike

iTrader: (6)

Here's my how-to using the Motive bleeder, easy breezy.

Brake Bleeding

joo030879

iTrader: (3)

Very nice.

while nipple open. Gently tap the caliper. To release trpd air.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

I may be mistaken, but the reason for the diagonal pattern may be because of the way the circuits are set up in the master. One circuit feeds the driver side front, pass rear, other the pass front and driver side rear.

Track Bandit

iTrader: (1)

Well as I was up on the rack at the dealer for my first FREE 3K oil change, I had a chance to ask a few questions about the car and the brake bleeding issue on the ABS modulator was brought up. He says they never disconnect anything but do make sure that nothing is turned on in the car, ie. the key fob is in the car and you have the button pressed twice to the ON position. They just don't want any power to the modulator and a normal shut-off of the car should do that. Then you bleed the brakes as mentioned in the manual and by others here either using the pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder, or the old fashion way of pumping the brakes. Everything else in the manual should apply. Seems straight forward enough to me now.

UPDATE!

Well the brake lines are installed and I bled the system as mentioned and all went well. The only thing I found was initially I got a BRAKE and the traction control icon when I first started the car. I later found out that the master cylinder has a sensor in it and if there isn't enough fluid in the reservoir, then you will get these icons coming on. Make sure that the reservoir is filled up to at least the seam point or slightly higher with brake fluid. Future post on the install of the BF Goodridge lines with pictures and a special "tip" coming soon.

Al

toyzforme

Another way to do it by yourself besides the Motive way is just buy the Russell Speed Bleeders. I have them all the way around and all you have to do is crack it loose, attach a hose with a bottle to catch the over flow and then pump the brakes a few times. The speed bleeders act as a one way check valve. Fluid comes out but closes so no air gets back into the system. Comes in really handy if you ask me.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Decided to do this now rather than in the spring. Wheels were coming off anyways to switch to winter wheels/tires and it was a balmy 60F here in Chicago (20's and low 30's expected in 2 days). Why freeze... Car has just shy of 15K miles & 3 years on the old fluid.

I loosely followed soundmike's instructional. Wally world had the qt bottles for $7 a pop. Getting the motive cap on was a bitch. Apparently you rock it side to side until it bottoms out, then twist. The rest was pretty simple. Used up most of the 2 qts.

My motive tool came from a seller on here who installed some quick release air chuck like fittings so it was easy to disassemble the cap from the pump/tank assembly. Highly recommended as you can use one tank with a number of different fittings.

Total time took about 4 hours, but that included cleanup too. I take my time jacking the car and getting the jack stands in just the right place (along with some slitted hockey pucks).

The old fluid was in relatively good condition. In fact I could hardly tell the new from the old in the rear. The fronts showed more yellowing of the old. New was clearer.

I did this on another car few years back. Rear was quite dark, front was nearly black. So much for a fluid flash that was paid for when the car had a brake job done.

Total cost, ~$20 in brake fluid. Already had the motive tool from 3 years ago.