I just installed a set of stance super sports.
Stock height from the fender to the ground:
front 27.75"
rear 27"

after install:
front 26.5"
rear 25.75"

It is a bit too low in the rear so I will raise it another .5". The toe is within spec, but the camber is way off. Do you reckon I can get away without a camber kit of am I going to be eating tires?

 

Front looks great. Above -2.0 is going to handle nice but you will eat tires. How long depends on the tire. Toe being positive, if its toe-in, it also looks good. I'm totally confused though how caster changed before and after. OEM arms in the front can't adjust caster or camber. How did you change it?

Rear camber is horrible! You want about a 1 degree difference with the front having more. I'd shoot for -1.5 rear with your -2.0+ front. It's going to handle kinda scary in fast corners that high and you'll kill tires quick no matter the brand. Straight line acceleration will also suffer since your contact patch is lowered. Rear toe looks good.

 

Thanks Synolimit.I got new tires today as well. The oem potenzas were done and I went with Michelin super sports. Not sure if the tires affected the caster. Is there not a small amount of adjustability in the stock set up? In any case it looks like I will need control arms for the front and camber adjusters on the rear. Any ideas on what works well. Not sure if anyone has stance super sports and could recommend their current set up?

 

I've got SPC F&R set w/ the rear toe bolt set, been fine on my dropped G for several years now. Those camber kits will pay for themselves over time w/ the tire wear you save
My G that's lowered to 26.25" F&R, has Front camber~-0.2L -0.1R Toe 0.05L 0.03R Rear Camber~-0.6L -1.1R Toe 0.08 L&RT Caster 6.1
Caster was the onoly thing they couldn't get in spec
Here's a little section from this thread, it's generic so it may or may not apply as much to our Gs suspension Geometry FWIW.
Car Alignment: Understanding Camber, Caster and Toe - Yahoo Voices - voices.yahoo.com
Caster:
Caster is a tilt to the upper portion of the steering axis. The centerline of the tire is forward or behind the centerline of the lower and upper steering pivot points or axis. When the axis is tilted back, the caster is positive. A forward tilt is negative. Caster is influenced by the height of the car. Modifying the front or rear to raise or lower the vehicle will cause a change in caster. The same change may be noticed if a heavy load is placed in the trunk.
Caster does not affect the wear of the tires. Incorrect caster will cause a car to pull to one side. The pull will be to the side with the smallest positive caster. In cases of negative caster, steering can be difficult at high speeds and wheel return, after turning, may be reduced.

 

Thanks blnewt, I was also doing some research on SPC and have read some positive reviews

 

Tires wouldn't do anything. No, nothing. The stock upper arm is solid. No adjustment for anything. Only toe on the lower tie rod ends.

I wouldn't get anything for the front. It looks perfect. If you tracked I would and get a little more caster back up to 5+ but everything else I'd leave. SPC and spl can do caster.

Rear camber arms 100%! Sooner the better. But adjusting camber that much will destroy your toe numbers. You might need aftermarket toe bolts to adjust beyond what the OEM can do to get back where it's at now.

As for arms, spl ONLY!! The SPC are junk! Lots have snapped. You don't want to put all that time and money into a car and cheap out $100 on a cheap rear arm where it will put you into a wall or at least destroy your wheel and tire as you flop down they road and its hanging off.

 

I thought most everyone on the forums here pushed the SPC kits?

 

SPL is without a doubt better, but SPC is no worse than the OEM equipment from what I saw when installing it. For the serious track enthusiast, SPL is the way to go, but for hanging around town, SPC is probably fine.

 

Well the front slips and the rear snaps so ask yourself this, if 100 or 1 rear has snapped, is it worth $88 to put something like that on a $40,000 car?! Or spend $100 or so more for the insurance and get the best of the best?

I agree around town you might be ok but SPC rears are not like OEM. OEM doesn't have that bend in the middle and material wasn't weakened when they cut the threads into the SPC for the adjustment. And if your ok around town, what happens when you go on a canyon run and are hot ******* around having fun? You want that cheap $88 part keeping you off the side of a mountain? I sure don't.

If you have SPC, spl will give you 25% off their arm if you trade yours in. If you have an older version of SPL, they will give you 50% off to upgrade to their new stuff!!

SPC, eibach, ischium or whatever are all the same thing from china. You decide!

 

This is just here, look at 370z.com also.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...t-spc-kit.html

 

It seems some people believe SPC camber kits are great and others not. My car was 27.75" from the middle of the fender to the ground. Before I lowered it. It is now 26" from fender to ground on all sides in the front and the back on stance super sport coilovers. The install of the SPC front and rear camber kit was installed and new alignment was done.

I believe this is much better now

 

That's more like it, especially the toe, your tires will thank you
Now good luck keeping the braided flex pipes on your exhaust from getting even more "braids". Mine now have cornrows from when I was under 26" in front, lol.

 

Haha thanks blnewt