Bleed screw torque + speed bleeder

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Old May 18, 2015 | 08:40 AM
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Bleed screw torque + speed bleeder

Hi all. Driving 2013 G37xS (big brakes).
Have 2 questions:
1. does the bleed screw has a torque spec? I'm afraid it might be too loose/tight.

2. What do you guys think about speed bleeder?

Thanks
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by mbar
Hi all. Driving 2013 G37xS (big brakes).
Have 2 questions:
1. does the bleed screw has a torque spec? I'm afraid it might be too loose/tight.

2. What do you guys think about speed bleeder?

Thanks
70 inch pounds on the bleeders, and the Motive power bleeders get great reviews.
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Old May 18, 2015 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by blnewt
70 inch pounds on the bleeders, and the Motive power bleeders get great reviews.
Thanks for the torque number. I meant speed bleeder screws... Any idea?
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Old May 18, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Can't remember ever using a torque wrench on one of these. After the screw bottoms out, just snug it up slightly with a small wrench.

With the power bleeder mentioned above, no need for speed bleeders. It's much faster, one person operation, and less abusive to the master - you're not bottoming out the piston.
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:06 PM
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For Speed Bleeders, I usually just snug them, and then go another 1/8-1/4 turn. It's the same as any other bleeder nipple. If it's not tight enough, it'll squirt, so tighten it a little more!
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
For Speed Bleeders, I usually just snug them, and then go another 1/8-1/4 turn. It's the same as any other bleeder nipple. If it's not tight enough, it'll squirt, so tighten it a little more!
Which speed bleeder do you use? I can't find the part number that would fit the big brake kit (spot PKG)
Thanks
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Old May 26, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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I haven't installed them yet on my G37, but I have 4 packages of 10mmx1.0. Just waiting for the brake fluid to arrive. I'll update this thread with confirmation of the size whenever I install them.
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Old May 30, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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Confirmed. Part number 639560 - 10mmx1.0. Installed them last night.
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Old May 30, 2015 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
Confirmed. Part number 639560 - 10mmx1.0. Installed them last night.
Was it difficult / messy to install?
Did you try them out? Is it making the bleeding process easier ?
Thanks
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Old May 30, 2015 | 04:28 PM
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Yeah, same process as bleeding the brakes with normal bleed valves. The only difference is that these are one way valves that don't allow the hose/valve to suck in air when you're letting off the brake pedal. So that allows one person to loosen, then pump, then fill the fluid level, then close them up. Simple!
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Old May 30, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
Yeah, same process as bleeding the brakes with normal bleed valves. The only difference is that these are one way valves that don't allow the hose/valve to suck in air when you're letting off the brake pedal. So that allows one person to loosen, then pump, then fill the fluid level, then close them up. Simple!
Does the break fluid start coming out right after you twist the screw(like a standard screw) or only when you press the pedal?
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Old May 31, 2015 | 12:28 AM
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The general idea is you loosen the bleeder slightly then start pumping to bleed it. There's a check ball that prevents fluid/air from being sucked it. This relies on the screw thread sealer being intact.

For me, for slightly more than the cost of these I got the power bleeder from motive. It pays for itself after the first use. You can also use different adapters that fit various vehicles. I prefer this tool as the MC doesn't get stressed as much as pumping the brakes countless times full stroke as you do with the traditional method.

I suppose for a quick bleed the speed bleeders work, but for a full flush where you got through a quart or more of brake fluid the power bleeder is quicker and easier (and less destructive). My 2¢.
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Old May 31, 2015 | 12:47 PM
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I have speed bleeders. I don't know the part number. The hex is larger than the OEM bleeders and it's hard to get a wrench on it without scratching up the finish on the sport calipers. Also they are rusted to hell. They do work as intended though.

Torque value isn't important. Only crack them open slightly to allow fluid flow to bleed them. Any more and they'll leak around the threads. Close them only tight enough until you stop the flow of fluid. Any more and you'll strip the holes and ruin the bleeder and the caliper.
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