Do we really need a camber kit for TEIN lower spring?

Old Mar 3, 2015 | 12:13 AM
  #31  
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that g tho
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thank you guys i wish all americans was as nice as you guys you guys really motivated me to go install it i was just scared of scraping but not any more thanks once again.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 12:36 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by that g tho
thank you guys i wish all americans was as nice as you guys you guys really motivated me to go install it i was just scared of scraping but not any more thanks once again.
Once you get them installed wait a week for them to settle, then get it aligned. IMO a camber/toe kit is needed and will pay for itself in worn tires. But whatever way you go just be cautious when approaching steep drives, speed bumps, etc. until you get a feel for how the car handles the obstacles.
It's just another acquired driving skill that comes w/ practice.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
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Just like BLNEWT said you should get a camber kit for the front and rear. With the rear camber kit I was able to set it at -1.9 and no more. I was trying to get the camber close to stock as possible but the Bolts don't have any more adjustment. Does anyone know what I need to get my rear camber closer to -1.5?? I have SPC front and rear camber kit with Tein S Techs.

Thanks
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 10:24 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by NewG
Just like BLNEWT said you should get a camber kit for the front and rear. With the rear camber kit I was able to set it at -1.9 and no more. I was trying to get the camber close to stock as possible but the Bolts don't have any more adjustment. Does anyone know what I need to get my rear camber closer to -1.5?? I have SPC front and rear camber kit with Tein S Techs.

Thanks
You'll need the rear toe bolt kit from SPC, if you already have that kit they may not have elongated the slot as per the included template. If you have the rear arms & toe bolts you'll be able to get to zero camber if you want.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 01:22 PM
  #35  
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I have the rear toe bolts and arm. The hole was drilled out with the template and they weren't able to go any less than -1.9 in the rear. If I drill the holes out more will I be able to get closer to -1 of camber? Its just that from what I saw, if they drilled out anymore then there won't be much metal left. I may just do it myself if thats the case. The first time I got the car aligned it was set at -3.5 without drilling out the hole but it made the car handle like crap. Now that I had the holes drilled out and aligned at -1.9 its a lot better! I think if I can get it closer to -1 then it would be that much better. Im running Michelin X ICE which are so soft.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 03:32 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by NewG
I have the rear toe bolts and arm. The hole was drilled out with the template and they weren't able to go any less than -1.9 in the rear. If I drill the holes out more will I be able to get closer to -1 of camber? Its just that from what I saw, if they drilled out anymore then there won't be much metal left. I may just do it myself if thats the case. The first time I got the car aligned it was set at -3.5 without drilling out the hole but it made the car handle like crap. Now that I had the holes drilled out and aligned at -1.9 its a lot better! I think if I can get it closer to -1 then it would be that much better. Im running Michelin X ICE which are so soft.
I wouldn't do any more cutting if they cut it as per the template, the way the bolt is mounted offset in the washer only allows for that amount of travel, cutting any more wouldn't have any effect.
Might want to try another shop, they should be able to get much better IMO.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 03:38 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
I wouldn't do any more cutting if they cut it as per the template, the way the bolt is mounted offset in the washer only allows for that amount of travel, cutting any more wouldn't have any effect.
Might want to try another shop, they should be able to get much better IMO.

I was there at the shop when they were doing it. From what I saw everything was done correct.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 05:01 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by NewG
I was there at the shop when they were doing it. From what I saw everything was done correct.
Well -1.9 is certainly tolerable, and if your toe is in spec you should get decent tread wear. Not sure why they're having such a hard time getting it closer though If there's not another shop that you want to try I'd just go w/ it.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 07:33 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
I wouldn't do any more cutting if they cut it as per the template, the way the bolt is mounted offset in the washer only allows for that amount of travel, cutting any more wouldn't have any effect.
Might want to try another shop, they should be able to get much better IMO.
Originally Posted by blnewt
Well -1.9 is certainly tolerable, and if your toe is in spec you should get decent tread wear. Not sure why they're having such a hard time getting it closer though If there's not another shop that you want to try I'd just go w/ it.
I think Ill just stick with it. The Toe is within spec BTW. The negative camber will look good once I put the 20's on.
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Old Mar 3, 2015 | 08:18 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by NewG
I think Ill just stick with it. The Toe is within spec BTW. The negative camber will look good once I put the 20's on.

IF the Toe is within spec then Cool... running camber at-1.9 is not bad compared to what Diego and I ran... 2.8-3.0DOMOFlipping our tires was a every other month deal....
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