dkmesa350z

iTrader: (3)

weird that your alignment specs are so far off pdpMiata. My front camber is the only thing they couldn't get within factory spec and it is close at like -1.4. Wonder why the caster and rear camber are so far off...but that being said, you're really not cambered out that much. Visually, you probably cannot detect the difference between -1.2 and -2.5. This is just a visual trick, since your tires are now closer to the fender, it appears more tucked at the top. Spacers alleviate this. I have 20 mm spacers front and 15 mm spacers rear. Up to 25 mm all around would work fine with factory wheels and tire sizes.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

They extend the wheel, that's all. The OEM wheels are already fairly deep in the wheel-well, like most cars. (Although there does seem to be an OEM trend lately, making wheels more flush with the fenders.) But now that you're dropped, that perception is accentuated because of the additional negative camber.

If you keep the duckfeet, I think you'd be happier with spacers. There's a member here, dragion, who has some pretty good pics before/during/after with spacers and springs on OEM sport-wheels.

It's a slippery slope, Albert, pertaining to details you probably never gave a crap about not too long ago. Springs, rims, spacers, camber kit, end-links, etc.

krazyfiend

Thanks for posting those pics, pdp.

I think Rochester is dead on about spacers. Personally, your drop looks perfect to me (this coming from someone who has rode on coils for the past 8+ yrs in a s2k and accord coupe). Once you lower your offset w/ 20/15 spacers (same thing I plan to run on my stock 18's I reserve for winter duty w/ blizzaks) it will pull it all together.

Even with the mild drop Swifts provide, oem offsets will give a sunken look\appearance due to fender design.

My koni yellow/swift/spc rear arms & toe bolt install is lined up for this Saturday -- I'm in a non-awd journey coupe and looking forward to not having to mess with coils on this car as it's my DD.

pdpMIATA

Haha yeah you're right. I really didn't give a crap before but now that I've run into a wall it bothers me. I'll find a solution to the problem soon just somewhat upset I need to dump more money to achieve something my original investment was supposed to accomplish.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Well, you've certainly got the power-mod thing down pretty good so far, if that makes you happy.

pdpMIATA

LOL ahhh that reminds me to post up a video of what she truly sounds like =D

You're right. I did performance before looks. Finished that. All that's left are stance and cosmetics, but that's proven to be much harder than it looks. Pun intended harhar

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

No, I said power mods... not performance mods. And as far as power goes, you can still swap in some 4.083 rear gears if you want to put more down to the drive wheels. And there's always forced induction. But if you wanted to go deep on handling performance, well, that's another matter entirely. Coilovers, frame bracing, solid poly bushings, lightweight everything, high-end tires, blah blah blah

My point being, you're only finished if you stop modding.

pdpMIATA

If my throttle response has changed along with an increase in power, the car performs better hence my choice of words. Potato potahto.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

After a few weeks, my front suspension has started to squeak and groan (mostly groan) when inching forward over an uneven surface, pulling out of the garage and the driveway, for example.

I'm quite convinced that in a couple of years I'll be ditching this spring & strut set-up for coil-overs.

1.618

Is it possible your swaybar bushings need to be greased?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Yes. That certainly is possible. Good thinking. I'll look into that.

ANMVQ

iTrader: (13)

Weird John I have no noises at all, I did how ever in the winter have that "groan" and it was my sways, I greased the bushings and it went away