krazyfiend

It seems most of the participants in this thread have X models of the sedan.. wondering if that meant a different part# of Swift springs or it's just general model for all sedans?

I'm thinking about weight distribution and such that is different due to extra components.

Also the X models have no strut/shock options, do they?

I know the thread I'm linking to below is based around a coupe w/ swift and koni drop, but even on the coupe, after the Swift drop the front is slightly higher in the front. Dtran and TVPostSound have both noted that in the past..personally I'm alright with it, looks fine one what I've seen in this threads and others. H&R springs or eibach I guess would have been the better route for those bent on having that 'raked' look more so. Perhaps pushing the rear out 20-15mm and the front 15-10mm with spacers would help.

Running a higher side wall tire up front, like most do with 19's and 20's.. can also have a *small* visual and height measurement effect. For instance, I'll be running 245/35/20 up front and 285/30/20 out back on my coupe.

If it comes to it, selling Swift springs seems to be very easy on this forum for those unhappy. If I get results like what I've seen thus far on sedans and coupes alike ( by results I mean some comfort retained with a nice sport feeling added from a renowned spring mnftr, easier camber spec's to deal with and a mild drop) I'll be a happy camper. I debated H&R vs Swift w/ my koni yellows for a couple of months..

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...d-after-2.html

https://www.myg37.com/forums/wheels-...-20-volks.html

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Actually you'll be running the same sidewall height w/ those tire sizes. As the tires get wider the "series" (middle number in the tire size) has to come down to keep the diameter the same. a 245/35 means the sidewall is 35% of the tread width, a 275/30 the sidewall is 30% of the tread width.
Hope that makes sense.
Good Luck w/ your suspension choices, Swifts seem to get overwhelmingly positive reviews.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Just so we're clear, the legions of people who have swift springs on their G Sedan, regardless of their level of contentment, that all those people look like douches, too, just like you?

Good to know.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Sometimes you get that not so fresh feeling when you have Swift springs

AroundTheG37

iTrader: (8)

Well, some prefer douche and some do not. I'm assuming you do so more power to you, I just prefer a little more rake (hell, is even being level that much to ask for?)

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Well you can always do this to get a little rake
My 09 G37xS (AWD) Lowered on Tanabe - Droopy Bum fix too!(PICS) - G35Driver

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

LOL. He seems to be blaming the springs for something else that stinks. It's difficult to take people like that seriously.

AroundTheG37

iTrader: (8)

Who should I blame then, you? Because if I can't blame swift then why not blame the person who thinks it's fine?

Also, why do you keep insisting on being that little annoying fly in my ear? This is a thread about swift springs in general where people come to express their thoughts/concerns and that's what I'm doing. Sorry if that puts a crimp in your forum plans.

original sin

iTrader: (1)

Since no one really ever posts their camber specs, I was able to get
F: -1.9 -1.9
R: -1.7 -1.7
Zero toe all around.
No camber arms.

I am fairly happy with the camber settings.

Car is a 2012 G37xS Sedan

AroundTheG37

iTrader: (8)

My alignment was pretty damn close to that as well, g37S sedan.

Ryne

iTrader: (12)

The rear is pretty close to spec, the front is a bit out though. I'd expect moderate camber wear over the life of the tires if your running staggered wheels and can't rotate front/rear. Minimal camber wear if you are running a square set that can be rotated normally.

original sin

iTrader: (1)

I expect minimum camber wear throughout.
I have ran -2 camber with 0 toe on all 4 corners before on my Subaru for 5 years.
I dont suspect this to be any different.
I can't preach this enough. Toe kills tires, not camber.

Ryne

iTrader: (12)

They both will, toe just has less tolerance. -2 is far from severe camber.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

So -2* or under should be ok? Cool. GTK and thanks, Sin.

I should be getting my car back tomorrow, after which I'll be making yet another alignment appointment that I hope not to have to cancel again. Bit of a run of bad luck lately after the springs, between the tie rod and the CSC that failed on me.

While your capacity for self-importance is impressive, I suspect it can be isolating on the car forum, so good luck with that. Blame is such a strong word... You're modding a car, and sometimes (most of the time) things don't work out 100%. It's hard to mod without some measure of compromise, but if you can't you can't, so good luck with that too.

Buzz Buzz.

Ryne

iTrader: (12)

I find that interested that your tie rod ends failed after installing the springs, how many miles? Lowering the car puts extra stress on the tie rod ends, I had them fail on my previous car that I lowered; failed tie rod ends destroys tires.

Generally, when a vehicle is lowered from factory height, the tie-rod shaft and rod-ends angle will change. Depending how much the vehicle is lowered the tie-rod shaft angle can change anywhere between 3 to 8 degrees, which then causes the rod-ends to change positions as well. The rod-end ball-joint to spindle distance can change by almost 20mm. This effect tends to put more stress on the tie-rod when turning, especially during high-performance driving. Instead of the tie-rod pushing the spindle at the correct angle, the angle is now changed, thus applying more pressure, which causes premature wear to your rack and pinion system.