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Hum, so purely replacing the white LEDs would be inadvisable and the moto volt regs should be replaced as well? Do you perchance offer a 'repair kit' of sorts? PM en route.
sending you some leds would not be a issue the Regs on the other hand unless you are skilled with working on smt devices i would advise against it they are much smaller then the leds and require the use of hot air soldering because they are PBF (leadfree) which means higher temp is required.
In looking at Dan Holt's video, it seems he's only soldering on the left points? Are the other points just there for physical support or some such, not electrical conductivity? Or am I mis-seeing things?
If indeed the only solder points to worry about are the two left ones [with A being the top left solder point and B being the bottom left solder point], for a 2-PLCC like the 160-2044-1-ND (instead of the 4-PLCC used in that video), how should that be lined up, the green or the blue or either locations?
the actual leds he list are incorrect the correct leds are plcc2 not plcc4 on the OEM lg leds the connections are bridged under the led itself and there is only 2 pads on the board.
In looking at Dan Holt's video, it seems he's only soldering on the left points? Are the other points just there for physical support or some such, not electrical conductivity? Or am I mis-seeing things?
If indeed the only solder points to worry about are the two left ones [with A being the top left solder point and B being the bottom left solder point], for a 2-PLCC like the 160-2044-1-ND (instead of the 4-PLCC used in that video), how should that be lined up, the green or the blue or either locations?
here is the actual led from the speedometer as you can see it is not a osram but a lg and is actually a plcc2 4800k white led it is a .25w led also
Jumping in on this thread instead of starting a new one... If I were to just buy a used cluster on eBay with similar mileage, I understand that the different years (different lighting schemes) will just drop in to the other G37s. So a 2013 cluster would plug-and-play into a 2008, and the mileage will be that of the new cluster. My question is about the manual transmission vs automatic transmission clusters. If my car is a MT, do I need a cluster from a MT donor car? It seems like most of the selection out there is from automatic donors. Thanks!
Jumping in on this thread instead of starting a new one... If I were to just buy a used cluster on eBay with similar mileage, I understand that the different years (different lighting schemes) will just drop in to the other G37s. So a 2013 cluster would plug-and-play into a 2008, and the mileage will be that of the new cluster. My question is about the manual transmission vs automatic transmission clusters. If my car is a MT, do I need a cluster from a MT donor car? It seems like most of the selection out there is from automatic donors. Thanks!
Not sure. I'd likely just ask one of the online OEM part sellers or my dealer's service department if I had that question. One thought though: It looks like this is something of a known issue i.e. for all the money and effort, your new-to-you cluster could develop the same issue. But perhaps not (or at least for the remaining time you own the vehicle) if you're going with a 2013 cluster instead of a year-matching 2008 one.
As for me, I'll likely have Cjandura work his magic on a full, proper repair (volt regs, not just LEDs) once I work out the details with him. You may want to consider that route if you haven't talked with him as of yet.
Definitely send it to someone with the equipment, skills and experience. Makes things so much easier, these cluster PCBs really require hot air rework. Using a normal soldering iron can be cumbersome and only work for a few devices, as has been said some devices on the PCB must use hot air.
I have found that over 99% of the LED lighting/backlighting I have personally repaired is fixed by simply using hot air to reflow the entire PCB.
