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HVAC, screen/display, audio not working but clock does
On my way to work today everything was fine in the '10 G37x. Backed up, used the camera, went on back to my usual driving then noticed my display was not working along with any controls in the HVAC and radio. The clock works however. This sounds beyond fuses. I have searched here and all I can find is this thread: https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...en-dead-2.html Sort of a dead end. I will try a meter on the fuses but sounds like a 2010 - 2012 Infiniti G37 A/C Heat Amplifier Control Module PN: 27760 1NM6B OEM:
So.... the screen went blank, or the the radio/HVAC stopped working, or both...? Not sure I am following the symptom. Ignore the clock, that operates on a separate harness than the rest of the preset switch panel.
What shows on the display? Do any of the LED's/ buttons work on the preset switch AND the multi-function switch (the dial one) assemblies?
Do you have a copy of the factory manual. If so, sections AV and PG will come in handy as this will show you how to perform the self-diagnosis function of the AV system as well as identify which fuses to check.
Thanks! None of the buttons for the HVAC light up, the AC is on and working but set at last setting. The display is not working. The large dial and buttons in front of the display do not work. The head unit is not working. Yes, I have FSM. Build date is 11/09.
I would first start by checking all of the fuses you can find and, when you have time, pull the switch panel and check the wiring (any looseness, kinks, etc.). Unfortunately, if none of the buttons are responsive then you will not be able to enter the self-diagnostic menus and check the error log. You can try, but...
The preset switch panel (the clock one) has a long history of failures- moreso for the G35's than the 37's, but there have been reports of failures.
Check these fuses: #3, #4 and #19 in the in-cabin fuse block (near drivers left knee). And #34 in the "Fusible Link" block hanging off the battery's + terminal.
If that gets you going again you might then want to inspect the wires passing through the rubber boots from your car's body into the trunk lid for any frayed or broken wires. The power to the rearview camera may have shorted and popped one of those fuses.
Fuse #19, 10amp, (Accessory Power Supply) feeds every one of your problem spots.
And that is exactly what it was! Thank you all!! 233,449 miles and almost no problems!! Also yes I have two amps and a piggy back hard wired radar detector in the panel. Hopefully it will not blow again.