Looking at getting the Stillen GK but I'm also seeing the same configuration of wires for grounding kits on ebay for much cheaper. Has anyone had any success with the GKs from ebay at all?

 

What are you looking to get out of it? I have a custom grounding kit that I made and I really don't notice any difference from it but I don't feel like yeeting it yet.

 

I was doing some research on this today actually and I found that a lot of people were making their own grounding kit so I would imagine that the eBay one will be fine. I guess be forewarned that it is pretty debatable between the forum posts that I found on whether the GK actually makes a noticeable difference or it is just a placebo effect.

I can't speak from prior experiences however, just from what I've read.

 

It isn't going to make the car respond like a DCT but it was noticeably more sluggish after removing the GK. I ran one on mine a few days after I got the car and left it on for two years. After those two years, I took it off and drove for a few weeks without it and I made it a point to put it back on after those few weeks.

Make your own. It's literally $30 in wire and connectors....

Site I used: https://www.genuinedealz.com/

 

RLB5190, did your GK bypass the current sensor? I know there is some debate on that issue, which is the main reason I stayed away from installing a GK. Just curious...

 

I would also be interested in learning more about what you mean by bypassing the sensor.

 

Not sure what you mean by current sensor. I've heard of some people getting parasitic draw and killing their battery after installing a DIY kit but I believe that is more user error. With mine, I installed while I still had the OEM battery and went over two years with no issue. The OEM battery did eventually die though and the new one has been fine as well with my DIY kit.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...ur-own-14.html
My layout is post #198

 

Build your own. Go buy 0 or 2 Guage power wire and gold played connectors. Buy some heat shrink to cover the connections. 30 bucks and 2 hours in the ac and you'll have a set.

 

Our cars have a current sensor close to the negative battery terminal.

It measures the current leaving and going to the battery and the temperature around the battery.
The engine control module (ECM) uses this to determine how much the alternator should charge the battery.

If you install a grounding kit that connects directly to the battery, the current sensor is being bypassed,
BUT if you use body ground, then the current sensor is not being bypassed.

If you choose to use a grounding kit, don't bother grounding the throttle bodies at the allen bolts.
The are not part of the electrical path.

If you think there is a problem, why not clean the existing grounds?

 

I don't think there is a problem. I just wanted to make the system slightly more efficient.

 

I created my own while bypassing the current sensor. Connected to the negative terminal to strut tower, to block, other strut tower and back to block. I ended up creating throttle body grounds as well but they didn’t do much. Personally I found that shifting in manual mode was more responsive and I found that throttle response was better. I drove my dads ‘10 G37X and it felt more sluggish than my ‘09 G37X.

Never had my battery die on me (gotten really low at times with lights on/radio on etc) Did need to jump it once when I was out cleaning interior and wouldn’t crank after listening to music. Was at it for a couple hours tho so my fault

 

The modern ECU does not use ground returns for operation. Modern ECU's condition the power, send power and ground out along each connector and return signals are all in the harness. If you disconnect the grounds from the engine and transmission, that will affect the starter but the engine will still run and the transmission will still function. For reference look at page TM-240 of the 2013 G37 Coupe FSM, you'll see that everything that controls shifting is closed loop. Meaning, the TCM manages power and return for solenoids and sensors. Nothing is returned to a body or case ground. The only items that need ground are the starter, ECM, TCM, shift interlock, etc. Everything relating to drive-ability and ECU, TCM control are all closed loop circuits. When OBD2 came into use, manufacturers had learned to not rely on connections made from parts bolted together and sharing grounds with starter or alternator. They realized that if they use the ECM to generate a REGULATED control voltage, they could bring ECM/TCM control into tighter operation. Therefore, all control outputs and signal inputs on modern cars have a fully regulated +V and separate, isolated GND along with the actual signal/control. As long as the ECU and TCM are receiving enough voltage to GENERATE these controlled, regulated circuits, the car will run as intended.

These are not old school cars were a control wire comes out from the firewall to a solenoid which gets ground from the solenoid body attached to engine which is in turn grounded thru a strap to frame which is in turn ground from frame to battery negative terminal. Grounding kits could help on those cars.

Go research the FSMs, if you understand what you are seeing, you'll realize grounding kits are useless on a modern car. If you don't understand the FSM, you should question your own desire to add wires to your car and the fact that you don't understand how your car works.

If you MUST add a grounding kit to a modern car, remember these things:

-Do NOT ever bypass the current sensor. Basically, don't connect any new wires to the battery NEG terminal. This will allow current to flow around the sensor, the ECM uses the feedback from the current sensor to control battery charging. I don't care what kind of anecdotal evidence people think they have, if you bypass this sensor you will slowly damage your battery. Do you think Nissan engineered this for no reason?

-Ground wire to manifold=waste. Sensors won't care as they don't utilize chassis ground returns.
-Ground wire to block=the starter may like this. Won't hurt the car at all. On an older car may improve starting, HOWEVER, so would fixing the original ground wire.
-Ground wire to transmission=waste, although starter may utilize it. You WON'T be making any sensors "happy" because nothing in control of the transmission utilizes chassis ground returns.
-Ground wire to ECM= go for it. This is the ONLY way you can improve the engine control power scheme. But, why stop there? Why not also bring in heavier +VDC wiring while you are at it (properly fused and relayed)????? Why just fatten up one wire?
-Ground wire to TCM= same as ECM.

Guys, I know once you get it in your head that you are going to "do something" to your car, you will disregard the facts I have shared.
I can also guarantee that your TCM/7AT won't shift any differently due to your ground kit. It WILL shift differently when you drive it differently whilst trying to satisfy the placebo effect in your head. My 7AT can either be total garbage, or it has days where it shifts perfectly all day long. I can see it is related to my habits if I think about it enough.

Oh, and BTW I installed the OEM Infiniti Sport exhaust on my coupe, and in fact it does feel faster. Do you guys think it really is any faster, at all? Nope. Despite me knowing that, car still feels faster.