Entcee

iTrader: (3)

I recently purchased a 2012 G37 and one of the first things I got done was adding my amp and subs. I took it to a large chain store and told them to splice my RCAs and tap them into 23-26 based on the searching I have done here.

Well, when I picked up my car, they said they added a passive LOC after the Bose amp SMH. They told me that the 23-26 wires were only supplying .5v which they said was not good enough.

Needless to say the bass is very muddled. I contacted the shop and explained the bass being produced is not to my liking. They recommended an LC2i stating that it will fix the bass curve that the Bose amp messed with. AudioControl LC2i Line Output Converter

I did not like this idea as the Bose amp will process the signal and then LC2i will process it again. I think less processing the better. Since the only "problem" was the wires I wanted to use were only .5v, I asked them if I should use this product which would boost the voltage to the 4v (my amps max input voltage): AudioControl Overdrive Plus

The shop still recommended the LC2i.

So I am asking the G community..... It looks like I have 4 options and wanted to get a feel for which option you all would choose.

1. Keep it as is (passive LOC) - Muddled bass, not what I want.
2. Have them wire it the way I initially requested - Will probably have to turn the gains on my amp way up since the source is only .5v
3. Install the LC2i - This has good reviews but worried about the signal getting processed too much.
4. Install the Overdrive Plus - This would increase the pre-amp voltage so that I can turn down the gains on the amp which I would assume would reduce noise going to the speakers.

What would you do? Thanks in advance!

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Anybody?

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

I can't remember if those wires are for the rear or front but the rear output from the head unit is very very low.

You need to tap into the fronts

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Ah, those are for the rear. When I go back, I will have them measure the output from the front wires.

Thank you!

Melophile

When I was doing my amp/sub install, I was initially going to go with the LOC, but many members here recommended to ditch the LOC because it muffles the bass. Instead, tap straight into 23-26. So I did what was recommended and I haven't had any problems.

Get it installed the way you initially requested and see if there's any problems. Don't buy all those additional items when you can get things to work without them. If there's any problems, then you can figure it out from there, but I don't think you will have any since me and many others are tapped into 23-26 without issues.

dwb993

Ditch the LOC---run direct. Check my Build Thread for more detailed info. (https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post4052591)

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the responses. The installer insists the LOC LC2i (connected after the Bose amp) is the best way to go, but I will have them check the front wires (pre-Bose amp) to see if they are better than the rear and have them tap into either F or R pre-amp wires..... Despite what they say

Melophile

Have you actually heard the system yet when they're wired directly to 23-26? I haven't heard or seen anyone use 33-36.

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately not. That is the way I requested it to be set up, but when I picked up my car, they tapped after the amp and installed a passive LOC. Was quite disappointed since I did my research prior and asked them to install it my way.

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

It is now installed the way I wanted... but there is engine noise.

With regular twisted pair RCAs chopped off at one end and soldered, the noise was deafening. Went with a JL audio RCA cable meant for splicing and it cut the noise A LOT, but it is still there and it is sometime VERY high pitched.... uggg

Also, we added a ground loop isolator and it killed the audio signal.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a grounding issue.
Move your ground somewhere else.

Ground loop isolators lower the total volume output of everything

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Moved the ground several places. No change.

I'm planning on going a different route now. (Again).

JC-RH

iTrader: (6)

I know this is really late, but I’m curious to know what finally happened.

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Ended up tapping the sub signal (pre sub amp). This caused the engine noise to be in the factory sub, which I simply removed.