I'm curious so here is my question -

I ran my wires the exact same way. I'm running a kicker DXA1000.1 (1000 rms at 2ohms) amp to two kicker CVR102 10" 2OHM DVC woofers. Running these guys at 2 OHM and I can barely hear it in the cabin of my G37X sedan. They're moving, but it only adds a slight bit of thump if the bass is turned all the way up and the volume is above 3/4 max. Anything I should check? I have my gain turned all the way up (which is another red flag for me) and all the equipment was BNIB.

 

I just had my customsubenclosures box and everything installed on Tuesday... I will be posting pics tomorrow! Fits like a glove and takes up very little useable trunk space. I have a single Alpine MRX M-55 (Birthsheet rated it at 588 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms) hooked up with a 4-gauge wiring kit running a single IDQ10D4 V.4 wired at 2 Ohms. This is EXACTLY what my stock Bose system was missing and it sounds fantastic. It makes it feel like I upgraded the entire system instead of just added a sub. It really rounds out the bottom end very nicely. I had the remote **** installed just below my shifter on the center console for easy access and I barely turn it up. This single 10" is way more than enough to compliment the stock Bose system and gets very loud. I was wondering if I'd be able to hear a single 10" well enough through the thick back seat. Let me just tell you that if you're worried like I was, don't be. I can hear/feel it just fine at 80mph on the freeway with the windows down!

A big thank you to NealP for showing us that the box works in a 2011+ coupe. I would assume that it fits in 2011 and 2013 as well even though their website has it listed as 2008-2010.

 

Great job bro.
I like that the box sits flush in the trunk..

 

How did you connect the wires? What pins in the harness? Did you use a LOC? If so get rid of it. I had this issue for about a week..then it just disappeared. I have no idea why.

YeknomDude
Good to hear it worked out for you!

 

Did you apply ohm's law? Below is a nice explanation and how to set the appropriate gains using ohm's law. If after setting the right gains and the subs still do not work properly then there is a possibility they were blown with gains set to max.

 

Interesting way of setting the gain adjustment. One flaw. There's no load on the amp. I highly doubt the output voltage will be the same once a load is applied. If they don't want to use an actual sub, they should use an appropriate dummy load instead.

Also, most headunits do start to clip at higher levels.

 

Sorry I didn't get a chance to post these pics over the weekend. You know how busy things can get on the weekends. But now that it's Monday and I'm back at the office, I have a chance to post the pics I took on Saturday

 

This method will get you in the ballpark but will not come close to optimizing your gains for any particular head unit or amp. Speakers are highly dynamic, changing impedance with frequency. By using DC calculations, you will more than likely introduce distortion into your music by not taking into consideration the changing frequency and impedance values of the drivers. The best way to set the gain on an amp is to use a O-scope to verify that the driving unit (head unit) is set to maximum output before the internal amps clip, then adjust the gain of the amp to its maximum value BEFORE clipping occurs. In most cases, it is recommended to do this at two discrete frequencies where the amp/drivers will be operating.

 

Near the end where you fish the power wire through an existing hole...could you fit a grommet in there first, or would you lose the needed diameter? I don't like pulling power wire through tight, sharp holes like that.

 

It might be a tight fit. I fed 4ga through there, and I don't think it would fit with the addition of a grommet. You can always enlarge the hole with the appropriate size drill bit, and add a grommet. Should be pretty easy.

 

hole? I went down the bottom of the B pillar on the side of the rear seat & there's a big opening there right at the side of the metal bracing for the trunk. Plenty of room.

 

Can u help me with the connection of 23-26. Do i need to hook up the pos and neg for each side left and right?

 

I think i got somwthing connected incorrectly can u go thru with the connections for the wiring pf the remote and the left and right please? Im so stuck right now

 

Yeah, you need to cut two RCA cables, connect the positive lead of one cable to pin 24 (rear left +), and the negative lead to pin 23 (rear left -). Connect the positive lead of the other cable to pin 26 (rear right +), and the negative lead to pin 25 (rear right -).

For power on, I connected my remote cable to pin #20 (white).

If you're having trouble, you may want to check your connections with a multimeter to make sure that you haven't mixed up the RCA cable leads.

 

Agree with the above. I used a test light to ensure the remote lead was getting power when my amp was not turning on. It turned out that the wire was so thin, it didn't seat correctly in quick connect at first.

What exactly is the problem you are seeing? Some sound, no sound, no power, amp in protect mode, etc?