CRiME

iTrader: (2)

True, forgot to add that. What exactly is the issue that you're having, g37blueslate? Give us a little more information if possible, so that we can help you out a bit more.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

You've got a coupe, no? Unfortunately, the best opening that I could find in my sedan was similar to the one that gsteigerwald used.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (3)

Looks good, great subwoofer choice. Can't go wrong with Image Dynamics

smilinsteve

Glad I found one of these threads that is active and recent. I've learned a lot and now I'm ready to add a sub to my 2010 G37 sedan.
I ordered from customsubenclosures.com 9 days ago. It hasn't been a good experience so far. The guy doesn't answer emails and I have no idea how long its going to take. But it looks like a good product and I'm glad to see several others here have used and liked this guys enclosure. Now on to some questions...

smilinsteve

I don't understand why people are using wires 23,24,25,26 on harness 41 which are the right and left rear full frequency signals from the head unit to the amp. Why not use wires 16 and 17 that go from the amp to the rear woofer?
- Doesn't using 23-26 affect the sound of the rear speakers?
- Would wires 16 and 17 be speaker level outputs or are they line level since they go to the woofer amp?
- I was thinking about just removing the factory woofer (1 10" in the 2010), which would create a port from the trunk to allow more bass through. Then I'd use the speaker level wires to the old sub into my new amp. Any thoughts on that?

smilinsteve

Sorry, just thought of a couple more questions:

- The sub and enclosure has to be removed to get to the spare tire, right? I'll probably use industrial velcro as is recommended

- Where is the best place to put the amp? I don't see any room in the spare tire compartment.

Absinthe

Signal wires 16 & 17 come from the Bose amp; therefore, its a safe bet they are processed. The signals from wires 23,24,25 & 26 come from the head unit and are (relatively) clean and full frequency. A sure fire way to cripple an aftermarket sub installation is to feed it signals from anything with a Bose label on it.





Cant offer much comment on your application as all my experience with with the coupe.

Absinthe

Most users on here opt for the pre-fab fiberglass enclosures that sit on the left (and) or right side of the trunk. If you trim the trunk cover fiberboard sufficiently, it is still possible to slide the carpeting out from under the sub(s) and lift up the cover without removing them. If you don't want to go to the trouble or don't like the idea of not having your cover rest on the sides of the spare tire well, you'll have to remove one (or both) subs to gain access to the spare tire. As for velcro, that will depend on the design, fit and finish of your subs. Mine rest more on the floor of the trunk and are a snug fit into the trunk recess that even high speed hairpin turns don't move them.



As for the amps, most integrate them into their sub cabinet or attach them to the back of the rear seat. A few of us have put them to the left and right of the spare tire but others have noted that on some models there is insufficient room to do this.

smilinsteve

Great info Absinthe, thank you. Can you explain your third picture? Is that the spare tire compartment with the tire removed? What is that box next to the amp?

smilinsteve

Well, the guy is being a little better about answering emails in the evening. I picture him as a guy who probably has a regular job and is building enclosures as a side job in his garage (but maybe I'm wrong). I ordered on the 30th, now its the 12th. He promised a couple of days ago that it would go out today at the latest. I hope that is the case. He said they are busy with holiday orders.

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

this box won't fit sedans?

smilinsteve

I don't think the same box fits sedans and coupes but He makes boxes for both.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

In my sedan, I put one of my amps here on the left side of the trunk. Apologies for the dirt, I had just finished that install prior to taking this picture:


As for 16 & 17 vs 23-26, when I was soldering in my RCA cables I actually tried both. I found that the output was abnormally high when using 16 & 17; even with my amp turned all the way down, the bass level was way too high and overpowered everything else. Switching to 23-26 solved the issue. This would support Absinthe's information that the signal from 16 & 17 has been processed to some degree while 23-26 provides a clean, flat signal.

smilinsteve

16 and 17 are speaker level and 23 - 26 are line level I think. The kicker amp I bought has a switch you can flip to use either one. That might have been your problem.
Looks like a good spot for the amp Thanks!

Absinthe

The third pic is taken of the area on the drivers side of the spare tire well. Both the spare and the plastic "shelf" have been removed. The silver box in front of the amp is the camera control unit for the backup camera. Actually, there are two amps behind the camera control unit. The third amp is on the other side of the spare tire