No imaging is great. I put the tweets in the doors where the factory mids were, and put the MLK mid where the factory woofer went. The factory tweets were removed. If possible, build your mount/adapter for the mids with a slight upward angle to the driver/passenger. Only a few degrees.

The amps are mounted in the spare tire well (clearly I removed the tire. I figure I have roadside and towing included so... *shrug*).

Sound so far is great, I can't wait for the final tuning once the speakers are broken in. No extra battery required, the Audison gear is exceptionally efficient.

-make sure the BitOne has the latest v1.5 firmware
-use a proper ACC line for the remote/key in or you might have funny power on issues (mine sometimes stayed on and killed my batt. so lesson learned)
-use the low level pre-amp lines or you might find alternator noise and de-EQ issues with the Bit (I did)
-I'm running the factory battery with no power cap
-every required signal is already in the trunk!! fantastic!
-the factory harness has plenty of room for 1/0 wire down the passenger side. It takes but seconds to run it.
-when running the BitOne setup you can have the factory HU at max volume since it doesn't clip

My biggest headache was finding out the keyed power isn't 12V. That caused hours of issues. And you can safely remove the Bose and factory sub amp completely from the car and lose nothing.

 

LOL, yeah the only left is the phone module and Satt. Radio. I didn't think the factory sound did such a sweet car any justice. I built the system for clarity but it has some punch too. Adding subs would be a big help though, I found there wasn't much low from the factory woofers at all.

 

Just saw your working install pictures in your new thread ..great stuff! More importantly, I appreciate you posting some of the info above!!! It sounds like it's info that'll save me some much needed time once I (and others) tackle similar installs.

 

I just want to try and swap the factory sub/woofer in the rear deck (2010 37x) for a true sub in a dedicated ported enclosure using the factory amp to power, anyone know what the factory sub/woofer ohm rating is, I do not want to hurt the factory bose amp. I'll work with box design to get the tone I want but am thinking the amp is enough for what I want in terms of volume, I know the factory sub has a ton of eq'ing via the system so it may not produce what I want but...I not going to "splice" ANYTHING on this car.