Sub/amp installed 2 issues
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Sub/amp installed 2 issues
So, this weekend in Installed a Rockford Fosgate amp and a sealed 10" sub in the trunk of my 11 G37S w/Bose and I have 2 issues
1. I tapped into the rear speaker inputs (23, 24, 25 and 26 from the Bose wiring diagram from the sticky thread) they still play music, but they have a constant wine. The noise does not seem to change pitch with RPMs.
Back when I used to work at Best Buy, I believe they used a ground loop isolater for this. Is that what I need?
2. The remote wire does not seem strong enough to turn on my amp, (I used #20 from the Bose harness) where can I find a remote wire to tap into with more current? I have heard this is mildly common for Rockford Fosgate amps.
1. I tapped into the rear speaker inputs (23, 24, 25 and 26 from the Bose wiring diagram from the sticky thread) they still play music, but they have a constant wine. The noise does not seem to change pitch with RPMs.
Back when I used to work at Best Buy, I believe they used a ground loop isolater for this. Is that what I need?
2. The remote wire does not seem strong enough to turn on my amp, (I used #20 from the Bose harness) where can I find a remote wire to tap into with more current? I have heard this is mildly common for Rockford Fosgate amps.
#2
So, this weekend in Installed a Rockford Fosgate amp and a sealed 10" sub in the trunk of my 11 G37S w/Bose and I have 2 issues
1. I tapped into the rear speaker inputs (23, 24, 25 and 26 from the Bose wiring diagram from the sticky thread) they still play music, but they have a constant wine. The noise does not seem to change pitch with RPMs.
Back when I used to work at Best Buy, I believe they used a ground loop isolater for this. Is that what I need?
2. The remote wire does not seem strong enough to turn on my amp, (I used #20 from the Bose harness) where can I find a remote wire to tap into with more current? I have heard this is mildly common for Rockford Fosgate amps.
1. I tapped into the rear speaker inputs (23, 24, 25 and 26 from the Bose wiring diagram from the sticky thread) they still play music, but they have a constant wine. The noise does not seem to change pitch with RPMs.
Back when I used to work at Best Buy, I believe they used a ground loop isolater for this. Is that what I need?
2. The remote wire does not seem strong enough to turn on my amp, (I used #20 from the Bose harness) where can I find a remote wire to tap into with more current? I have heard this is mildly common for Rockford Fosgate amps.
1. where are you grounded? ground loop isolator could help ... i grounded to the Bose amp mounting chassis (where it bolts to the trunk floor). i didnt think it would work too well, but it did, so i left it. im not really pulling big power, though, just a 100W powered sub.
2. you could try finding a switched circuit in the fusebox and run a wire from a fuse-tap ...
#3
Registered User
I had the same issues as the OP.
1. For the whine - I am still dealing with a very slight high pitched whine. It changes with RPM.. I have to find a better ground I am thinking..
2. For the remote turn-on wire I had to run a wire from the fuse box (accessory) so it turns on with the car. I have a JL Audio amp that needs a stronger turn-on signal so that was my issue.
Let me know if you resolve the whine issue.. I used the seatbelt anchor/bolt in the back seat deck.. hoping for a better solution as I am thinking maybe the ground is too close to the fuel pumps.
1. For the whine - I am still dealing with a very slight high pitched whine. It changes with RPM.. I have to find a better ground I am thinking..
2. For the remote turn-on wire I had to run a wire from the fuse box (accessory) so it turns on with the car. I have a JL Audio amp that needs a stronger turn-on signal so that was my issue.
Let me know if you resolve the whine issue.. I used the seatbelt anchor/bolt in the back seat deck.. hoping for a better solution as I am thinking maybe the ground is too close to the fuel pumps.
#4
I had the same issues as the OP.
1. For the whine - I am still dealing with a very slight high pitched whine. It changes with RPM.. I have to find a better ground I am thinking..
2. For the remote turn-on wire I had to run a wire from the fuse box (accessory) so it turns on with the car. I have a JL Audio amp that needs a stronger turn-on signal so that was my issue.
Let me know if you resolve the whine issue.. I used the seatbelt anchor/bolt in the back seat deck.. hoping for a better solution as I am thinking maybe the ground is too close to the fuel pumps.
1. For the whine - I am still dealing with a very slight high pitched whine. It changes with RPM.. I have to find a better ground I am thinking..
2. For the remote turn-on wire I had to run a wire from the fuse box (accessory) so it turns on with the car. I have a JL Audio amp that needs a stronger turn-on signal so that was my issue.
Let me know if you resolve the whine issue.. I used the seatbelt anchor/bolt in the back seat deck.. hoping for a better solution as I am thinking maybe the ground is too close to the fuel pumps.
sounds like you need a noise filter (alternator whine) ...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/151510315157?_trksid=p2053742.c100465.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150608111723%26meid%3D500abcfcff244056933ae220178a110c%26pid%3D100465%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
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djdiskino (09-30-2015)
#5
Registered Member
Thread Starter
1. where are you grounded? ground loop isolator could help ... i grounded to the Bose amp mounting chassis (where it bolts to the trunk floor). i didnt think it would work too well, but it did, so i left it. im not really pulling big power, though, just a 100W powered sub.
2. you could try finding a switched circuit in the fusebox and run a wire from a fuse-tap ...
2. you could try finding a switched circuit in the fusebox and run a wire from a fuse-tap ...
#6
#7
Registered Member
Thread Starter
I ordered a ground loop isolator and a fuse tap off amazon. Ill double check my ground cables to make sure nothing came lose as well. The stuff should be here friday, I love amazon
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#8
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Update. Installed the group loop isolator and the noise went away immediately.I also bought a fuse tap for the remote wire, but I haven't run the wire yet, maybe this evening.
#9
#11
Registered User
Noise loop isolator fixed my issue as well! I ordered the PAC one from Amazon for like $8. Didn't use the brown wires included with it. I also feel like I noticed a decrease in the bass response. I already didn't have a great bass signal to begin with where I have to turn my amp sensitivity up and gain **** almost all the way. Would a rca line driver solve this? I am using the stock Bose HU. I am tapped into the rear wires like everyone else.
#12
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Noise loop isolator fixed my issue as well! I ordered the PAC one from Amazon for like $8. Didn't use the brown wires included with it. I also feel like I noticed a decrease in the bass response. I already didn't have a great bass signal to begin with where I have to turn my amp sensitivity up and gain **** almost all the way. Would a rca line driver solve this? I am using the stock Bose HU. I am tapped into the rear wires like everyone else.
#13
The ground loop isolator lowers the output of signal also.
I used one once and noticed that the over all signal was very reduced.
You have a ground somewhere that is either lose or close to a signal that is sending feedback though the wire.
I used one once and noticed that the over all signal was very reduced.
You have a ground somewhere that is either lose or close to a signal that is sending feedback though the wire.
#14
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Also as an update I used a fuse tap and ran a remote wire from the fuse box in the drivers side foot well to the amp and that worked perfectly.