Audio Anomaly
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From: Sacramento, CA
Just an idea... but if you are going to mount a fan you could mount it directly to the inside edge of the plastic cover piece and cut a small hole that allows it to pull cooler air from the spare tire area.
I still haven't had any overheating issues with my amp, but that is my plan if I need to add a fan.
I still haven't had any overheating issues with my amp, but that is my plan if I need to add a fan.
I've stated in a previous post that I have a 4AWG grounding kit from Black Betty installed.
Please please please do NOT buy a cap. Caps do not work for sufficient storage of energy. Higher speeds means nothing when it comes to output from the alt. It only spins as fast as the engine cranks (Revs). It generates the most power with higher RPMS and not based on speed. If you are sure your ground is solid, battery is good and you obviously have big enough wiring, then you need to look at upgrading the alt. Adding another battery only adds a load onto the alt.
I don't know what kind of current draw you have, but I have over 1000 watts of power and I get virtually no dimming while idiling, system cranked and while driving its nonexistant. I would make sure your connects are good and everything else is up to par before I made any type of change. Then and only then would I consider a battery change and then an alt upgrade.
I don't know what kind of current draw you have, but I have over 1000 watts of power and I get virtually no dimming while idiling, system cranked and while driving its nonexistant. I would make sure your connects are good and everything else is up to par before I made any type of change. Then and only then would I consider a battery change and then an alt upgrade.
Good point... the RPMs are what changes alternator output not speed.
Still, I am not seeing what the problem is with putting a cap in. They do work in many cases.
If there weren't any problems with the previous install, then maybe try relocating your ground to the original ground point and seeing if it makes a difference.
Still, I am not seeing what the problem is with putting a cap in. They do work in many cases.
If there weren't any problems with the previous install, then maybe try relocating your ground to the original ground point and seeing if it makes a difference.
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I should have posted an update here. After tearing it all down, I found the RCA single to dual converter was making a poor connection with the single RCA I tapped to the bose woofer amp leads. I re-connected it, then taped the shit out of it. Everything seems to be working and not dimming lights now.
A different problem:
the amp cuts out, but not wiring related. I think something is loose inside the amp. the amp was not playing, but the power light was on. I rapped my knuckles on the amp cover close to the output speaker wires and voila, she worked. i feel that this is due to my recent rear end accident. I've made the necessary calls and the amp will be replaced.
A different problem:
the amp cuts out, but not wiring related. I think something is loose inside the amp. the amp was not playing, but the power light was on. I rapped my knuckles on the amp cover close to the output speaker wires and voila, she worked. i feel that this is due to my recent rear end accident. I've made the necessary calls and the amp will be replaced.
I should have posted an update here. After tearing it all down, I found the RCA single to dual converter was making a poor connection with the single RCA I tapped to the bose woofer amp leads. I re-connected it, then taped the shit out of it. Everything seems to be working and not dimming lights now.
A different problem:
the amp cuts out, but not wiring related. I think something is loose inside the amp. the amp was not playing, but the power light was on. I rapped my knuckles on the amp cover close to the output speaker wires and voila, she worked. i feel that this is due to my recent rear end accident. I've made the necessary calls and the amp will be replaced.
A different problem:
the amp cuts out, but not wiring related. I think something is loose inside the amp. the amp was not playing, but the power light was on. I rapped my knuckles on the amp cover close to the output speaker wires and voila, she worked. i feel that this is due to my recent rear end accident. I've made the necessary calls and the amp will be replaced.
The amp is going into protection mode. Is it really hot? Does it play for awhile and then start to cutoff? Simple things could be a short in the wiring/speaker, an improper load, good grounding and power wire contact. If all of that is good then you need to have the amp checked.
Good point... the RPMs are what changes alternator output not speed.
Still, I am not seeing what the problem is with putting a cap in. They do work in many cases.
If there weren't any problems with the previous install, then maybe try relocating your ground to the original ground point and seeing if it makes a difference.
Still, I am not seeing what the problem is with putting a cap in. They do work in many cases.
If there weren't any problems with the previous install, then maybe try relocating your ground to the original ground point and seeing if it makes a difference.
Do yourself a favor and read up on ESR/ESL and how it relates to capacitors. If you do not have knowledge in physics, it might be difficult to comprehend.
I worked in several car audio shops when I was younger. Caps seemed to work on a number of occasions for us when the lights would dim. That's all I'm saying. If it violates some principle that I'm unaware of then that's fine. It's just an idea.
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The amp is going into protection mode. Is it really hot? Does it play for awhile and then start to cutoff? Simple things could be a short in the wiring/speaker, an improper load, good grounding and power wire contact. If all of that is good then you need to have the amp checked.
as for your question: it's random. i may start the car in the morning and the amp will not play until i hit some bumps on the freeway, then it'll work. I've checked and re-tightened all of my connections to the battery/ground/amp/sub and everything is in order. loading is perfect as this is a DVC-4 10w6v2 in parallel to a 500/1 which operates from 1.5 to 4 Ohms.
like i said earlier, my gut reaction to all of this is the amp is failing. I've contacted my body shop and they've cleared it with the insurance company for me to purchase a new one. I've ordered a brand new 500/1v2 from woofersetc.com as of yesterday.
Hell yeah. Free amp!... I'm sure you payed for it in insurance premiums anyway.
Yes, caps are definitely a band-aid. There is no question about that.
Once you get the new amp in there let us know how it works.
Yes, caps are definitely a band-aid. There is no question about that.
Once you get the new amp in there let us know how it works.
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