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Bose Audio Wiring Breakdown

Old 11-17-2015, 09:57 PM
  #61  
socketz67
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Sedan or coupe as the speaker arrangement is slightly different in each. The sedan has low frequency drivers (noticed I did not call them subs :-) in the bottom of both doors, then another in the rear package tray.

Each is processed/crossed over inside of the Bose Amps located under the rear deck of the car.

I supplemented mine with JL Audio JX250 Amp (175 clean w/ch @ 4ohms) and WXv2 series 10 inch subwoofer mounted in a Belva MDFS10 pre-made enclosure that fits nicely into the corner of the trunk (pics are located in the albums setup in my profile). It sounded like a substantial improvement when I first installed (exactly what the stock system needed), but like money, power and exhaust note feedback, one can never get enough bass ;-) Now I find myself possibly wanting to upgrade to a JX500 and maybe a higher end JL woofer (or even a 2 ohm unit to take advantage of the additional power available from the amp). The caveat here is that you don't want to drown out the carefully matched OEM speakers either. While it is not everyone's cup of tea, the system is nicely matched to suit a variety of musical tastes/everyday use cases.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:34 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by socketz67 View Post
Sedan or coupe as the speaker arrangement is slightly different in each. The sedan has low frequency drivers (noticed I did not call them subs :-) in the bottom of both doors, then another in the rear package tray.

Each is processed/crossed over inside of the Bose Amps located under the rear deck of the car.

I supplemented mine with JL Audio JX250 Amp (175 clean w/ch @ 4ohms) and WXv2 series 10 inch subwoofer mounted in a Belva MDFS10 pre-made enclosure that fits nicely into the corner of the trunk (pics are located in the albums setup in my profile). It sounded like a substantial improvement when I first installed (exactly what the stock system needed), but like money, power and exhaust note feedback, one can never get enough bass ;-) Now I find myself possibly wanting to upgrade to a JX500 and maybe a higher end JL woofer (or even a 2 ohm unit to take advantage of the additional power available from the amp). The caveat here is that you don't want to drown out the carefully matched OEM speakers either. While it is not everyone's cup of tea, the system is nicely matched to suit a variety of musical tastes/everyday use cases.
Nice setup man! I have a sedan as well. looked through your pics and it looks great, I was looking for one of those 4080 boxes I've seen on here, but I guess they don't make those anymore. So you hooked everything up yourself? I'm wondering if I would be able to do this myself... I'd consider myself pretty technically able, but have never done any car stereo work before. I've got an amp that I had in another vehicle and a crappy sub that I will upgrade as well.

eta: dumb question, do I have to run a power cable for my amp from the battery or can I get power from the amp from a power line in the back?

Last edited by chickman1313; 11-18-2015 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:45 PM
  #63  
socketz67
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Thanks Chickman...

Those 4080 boxes are pretty rare because they are no longer available. The used ones that pop up from time to time are usually for the Coupe.

These guys make a custom enclosure for the sedan, but they're expensive:

The Belva unit I mentioned is built like a tank, fits in the corner of the trunk and is only $32 shipped from Sonic Electronix (it would be tough to build a box for less)...I also like that it's and optimal size (cubic feet) for most mainstream 10" subs, and it is easy to swap different drivers in and out of this box.

You will need at least an 8 Guage amp wiring kit (8 guage is good up to 500W). I used a Kicker PK8: Kicker PK8 (09PK8) 8 Gauge Power Amplifier Installation Kit

Remember, Total RMS Wattage times 2 (Inverse of Amp Efficiency) divided by 13.8 Volts equals Current Draw in Amperes




I had a local shop do the install because I was a little afraid of splicing into the factory wiring harness myself (really fine gauge wire) to install the RCAs. I mentioned the price of the install somewhere here on the forum, but I seem to recall that it was in the $150 range? Note that many shops will not want to splice into the OEM harness and will recommend hi/lo converters.

Recall from an earlier discussion that each speaker is processed/crossed over (i.e. an output frequency range is pre-defined to match the OEM drivers) in the Bose amps, so tapping the outputs of the Bose Amps to feed a low frequency signal into the Sub Amp is not recommended.

Once you get a grasp of this, take a printout of the colored wiring diagram I provided in this thread to the shop and tell them what you want - you will find one that will do as you ask.

Last edited by socketz67; 11-18-2015 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:38 PM
  #64  
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Thanks for the wiring diagram. I have the '11 coupe xs, and even with the wiring diagram could not find the remote for the factory amp (there is no white in pin 20). I did find a yellow 12v ignition that works fine (yeah the amp will be on with the key, but really wont hurt anything). I too have been out of the industry for about 15 years. I had a couple old MTX 12" and a older 500 watt amp laying around so I threw it in. I really should post up pics. One thing I learned from my years in car audio is proper airspace is more important than the amp and sub combined. I decided to ditch my spare, built a custom enclosure (2.8 cu ft), built a trim panel to cover everything and only lost 1" of the trunk and kept the subs forward and even can use the trunk!. Thanks for the diagrams, they were a big help, especially grabbing the signal wires at line level...I had to dynamat the trunk and sides because of the rattle but sounds pretty damn good..MUCH better than the factory..I'll post up some pics once I take some..
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:04 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Igor911 View Post
So when installing just a subwoofer / amp, are these the wires that I can tap to power my amp inputs?

(23) Rear Left - (SB)(Sky Blue) **Preamp from HU
(24) Rear Left + (V)(Violet) **Preamp from HU
(25) Rear Right - (Y)(Yellow) **Preamp from HU
(26) Rear Right + (BR)(Brown) **Preamp from HU

Or will I need a special filter to tap into first, before powering my amp?
Can you get 12v from the harness to power the sub amp or must you tap from the battery or will it overload the circuit?

Last edited by vmastros; 06-15-2016 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:18 PM
  #66  
Melophile
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Which harness do you guys recommend tapping into for my 12" sub? If it helps, I have a LOC.

Last edited by Melophile; 08-04-2016 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 12-11-2016, 06:25 AM
  #67  
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Audio signals from HU are BALANCED LINES

The audio "preamp level" signals from the Bose head unit are all BALANCED LINES. You run the risk of ground loops / alternator whine etc if you just wire these to an RCA unbalanced input.

If you don't understand the difference, take a look at =>What?s the Difference Between Balanced and Unbalanced? : Aviom Blog


The (+) and (-) designations on the audio wiring harness diagrams do not mean AUDIO and GROUND, they indicate the plus and minus phases of the balanced audio lines.

For best results, use processors or amplifiers that accept balanced lines, or use a balanced to unbalanced converter next to you processor or amp in each line. I've used a Radio Design Labs TX-1A for this, with good results. You can often get TX-1A's on eBay for about $10 each. See => TX-1A ? Balanced to Unbalanced Transformer - Adjustable
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:43 AM
  #68  
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'13 Sedan Center Channel?

Post deleted, I answered my own question about the center channel.

Last edited by milosz; 08-02-2017 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:39 AM
  #69  
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Has anyone tried adding another Bose sub with its own built in amp, to their system? Wondering if itís as easy as splicing into the pre installed existing sub connector... I got a buddy thatís parting out an Audi with the Bose sub Iím looking to use.
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