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Bose Audio Wiring Breakdown

Old 01-28-2013, 10:41 PM
  #31  
dillyyo
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Originally Posted by Tennessee View Post
I'm trying to find the passenger side wires for the Right Front woofer in the passenger side kick panel and I am having no luck. These wires (output from the bose amp, are Green (+) and Red (-). I see the Driver side woofer wires Black(+) and White (-), in the driver side kick, but I also see Red and Green in that same bundle on the driver's side. Does anyone know if these wires travel under the dash, all the way across to the passenger side Molex?
It's been so long i forget the wiring, but do yourself a favor and use stock wiring for your speakers, as wire gauge is plenty adequate. The only speaker wire I had to run was for the tweeters (active 3-way front) and that's because the OEM tweets are tapped off the mid wiring and run with an in line capacitor for filtering. If you try and run new wiring for three speakers on each side, you will have one hell of a time getting through the Molex, if you even can.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:02 PM
  #32  
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Door Molex

To run componet speakers in the door you will have to run a seperate wire for your tweeters. That way you can use the crossover that came with your speakers or use a processor like a JBL MS8 or something like it. When running a new wire for the tweeter you can bypass the filter going to the stock tweeter. I did it, it can be done there is just enough room and it requires a good deal of care. Leave yourself some time and have good lighting and little hands would help.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:43 PM
  #33  
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Can anyone confirm the wiring signal to run Multi-Channel Amp to the Bose mids and highs? Need to make sure which harness to splice into before I mess something up
Thanks

Bose Amp


Harness B42 (Pin Number/Item/Color Code)

(1) Front Left Mid/Tweeter + (L)(Blue)
(2) Front Left Mid/Tweeter - (W)(White)
(3) Front Right Mid/Tweeter - (LG)(Light Green)
(4) Front Right Mid/Tweeter + (V)(Violet)
(5) Front Right Woofer + (G)(Green)
(6) Front Right Woofer - (R)(Red)
(9) Front Left Woofer - (W)(White)
(14) Front Left Woofer + (B)(Black)
(10) Power/Key (Y)(Yellow)
(11) Power/Constant (GR)(Grey)
(12) Ground (B)(Black)


Harness B41 (Pin Number/Item/Color Code)

(16) Rear Woofer + (SB)(Sky Blue) **Signal to woofer amp
(17) Rear Woofer - (V)(Violet) **Signal to woofer amp
(18) Rear Left Mid + (L)(Blue)
(19) Rear Left Mid - (P)(Pink)
(23) Rear Left - (SB)(Sky Blue) **Preamp from HU
(24) Rear Left + (V)(Violet) **Preamp from HU
(25) Rear Right - (Y)(Yellow) **Preamp from HU
(26) Rear Right + (BR)(Brown) **Preamp from HU
(29) Center + (L)(Blue)
(30) Center - (O)(Orange)
(31) Rear Right Mid + (LG)(Light Green)
(32) Rear Right Mid - (Y)(Yellow)
(33) Front Right + (R)(Red) **Preamp from HU
(34) Front Right - (G)(Green) **Preamp from HU
(35) Front Left + (P)(Pink) **Preamp from HU
(36) Front Left - (L)(Blue) **Preamp from HU
(20) Power/Amp On (W)(White)

Last edited by huwee06; 04-03-2013 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:28 AM
  #34  
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Is this diagram good for a 2013 g37s sedan? I want to install my sub and amp but what to make sure this is the same. I have a Jl Audio JX 500/1 with a 12w3v3 2 ohm and I believe I should connect from 23-26 and connect the rca to my low level inputs. Amp on from 20.

Is this correct?


Edit: I went ahead and tried 23-26 and 20 and it works great. Sounds amazing. Now I need to fix the horrendous trunk rattle.

Last edited by Rickincali; 04-28-2013 at 09:36 PM. Reason: Found the answer
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:43 PM
  #35  
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Anyone have a snapshot of the backside of our nav headunit?
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Old 10-24-2014, 06:02 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dillyyo View Post
If you are running a serious aftermarket amp set up, you will need to run higher gauge power distribution.
I ran a seperate power supply from the front , and used a kinetik battery in the rear for real power . I would line to send u pics , but I need an email . This web site rocks but I'm not sure how to use if
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:44 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ironchef2008 View Post
(23) Rear Left - (SB)(Sky Blue) **Preamp from HU
(24) Rear Left + (V)(Violet) **Preamp from HU
(25) Rear Right - (Y)(Yellow) **Preamp from HU
(26) Rear Right + (BR)(Brown) **Preamp from HU

(33) Front Right + (R)(Red) **Preamp from HU
(34) Front Right - (G)(Green) **Preamp from HU
(35) Front Left + (P)(Pink) **Preamp from HU
(36) Front Left - (L)(Blue) **Preamp from HU
Whenever I see **Preamp from HU does that mean the same thing as the preamp RCA that most aftermarket amp want as an input, just not connected via RCA? I would just need to create the proper connection with RCA to go into the amp?


Originally Posted by ironchef2008 View Post

(16) Rear Woofer + (SB)(Sky Blue) **Signal to woofer amp
(17) Rear Woofer - (V)(Violet) **Signal to woofer amp

(8) Rear Woofer + (SB)(Sky Blue) **Signal from Bose amp
(9) Rear Woofer - (V)(Violet) **Signal from Bose amp
What about these signals from or to the subs. Are these amplified or preamp? Is this a situation where one amp passes a signal on to another amp? Seemed like we were going from one amp to another. If these are preamp, please let me know.
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:47 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by G37Xtreme View Post
Whenever I see **Preamp from HU does that mean the same thing as the preamp RCA that most aftermarket amp want as an input, just not connected via RCA? I would just need to create the proper connection with RCA to go into the amp?
Yeah, that's correct. If you splice your RCA cables into those wires, you can run them into your amp or sound processor.


Originally Posted by G37Xtreme View Post
What about these signals from or to the subs. Are these amplified or preamp? Is this a situation where one amp passes a signal on to another amp? Seemed like we were going from one amp to another. If these are preamp, please let me know.
I spliced into 23-26 and also tried 16-17. I found that 16-17 provided significantly higher output to my amp, to the point where I ended up going back to 23-26. Even with my amp gain turned all the way down, the bass level was extremely high - something just didn't seem right. I would not recommend using those connections.

Fellow member Absinthe provided the following explanation:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
My answer is primarily through experience with the coupe only. Although the sedans have an actual door mount on the "rear speakers" and the sub is actually mounted in the package shelf, YMMV

The signals from pins 24 & 26 are the low level signals for the tiny 3 1/2" drivers on the left and right of the rear seat cushion in the coupe (doors on the sedan). The signal comes straight from the AV Control unit is not the correct one for running the subs anyway. Pins 16 & 17 are designated for the 6" X 9" drivers in the package shelf (coup) and comically referred to by Bose as "Woofers" Even more comical; if you consult the factory schematics, it appears that the signals from pins 16 & 17 come from the Bose Amp. However, since those pins are still active and the Bose Amp is no longer in the car, I have to conclude that the signals although present in connector B41 and numbered on the Bose Amp are more likely direct from the AV control unit The main question that still burns in my mind is:

Although the signals to the Bose Amp (pins 23,24,25,26,33,34, 35,36) are full range; are the signals on pins 16 & 17 full range and why the amplitude change?
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Old 11-04-2014, 01:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CRiME View Post
Yeah, that's correct. If you splice your RCA cables into those wires, you can run them into your amp or sound processor.




I spliced into 23-26 and also tried 16-17. I found that 16-17 provided significantly higher output to my amp, to the point where I ended up going back to 23-26. Even with my amp gain turned all the way down, the bass level was extremely high - something just didn't seem right. I would not recommend using those connections.

Fellow member Absinthe provided the following explanation:
Interesting. I was talking to a car stereo install place during my lunch break, and mentioned this to him. He said that those preamp feeds were "balanced" and the standard input from RCA preamps is "unbalanced". I have more research to do, but I think he was saying that the left and right on a standard preamp share the same ground whereas in the wiring harness, they each have their own ground. He implied that it mattered, and pointed out only one brand of amp he sells (JL Audio Slash) that would properly deal with it.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:49 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by G37Xtreme View Post
Interesting. I was talking to a car stereo install place during my lunch break, and mentioned this to him. He said that those preamp feeds were "balanced" and the standard input from RCA preamps is "unbalanced". I have more research to do, but I think he was saying that the left and right on a standard preamp share the same ground whereas in the wiring harness, they each have their own ground. He implied that it mattered, and pointed out only one brand of amp he sells (JL Audio Slash) that would properly deal with it.
This is similar to what I ran into when I did my install. User Dillyyo answered this in his quote


Originally Posted by dillyyo View Post
That wire that loops back into the bundle is actually ground and terminates back at the HU chassis. If you want to use that signal as a balanced connection then you must match up the + and -to your balanced input on your device and you must ground to this ground that heads back to the chassis. Remember, a balanced signal has the normal signal (+), it's exact inverse replica signal (-) and in this car, the ground (shield running back to HU).

I will be taking on this adventure again in the near future as I have to reinstall my system into my new G, but this time I won't be splicing a balanced cable into the signal wires as my new Zapco DSP Z8 only takes RCAs. Hopefully i don't run into noise issues, but I know it's been done many times with good results, so we will see....
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:59 PM
  #41  
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Harness B43 (Pin Number/Item/Color Code)

(1) Rear Right Woofer + (G)(Green)
(2) Rear Right Woofer - (R)(Red)
(4) Rear Left Woofer - (B)(Black)
(5) Rear Left Woofer + (W)(White)
(8) Rear Woofer + (SB)(Sky Blue) **Signal from Bose amp
(9) Rear Woofer - (V)(Violet) **Signal from Bose amp
(3) Power/Amp On (GR)(Grey)
(7) Power (Y)(Yellow)
(10) Ground (B)(Black)
[/QUOTE]

Long shot here but I could use some help. I have everything hooked up correctly, but my remote wire isn't working. I've checked everything. If I connect it to the yellow wire it works, but not terminal #3. Wtf could be wrong?
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:54 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Cr0tchf4i View Post

Long shot here but I could use some help. I have everything hooked up correctly, but my remote wire isn't working. I've checked everything. If I connect it to the yellow wire it works, but not terminal #3. Wtf could be wrong?
For amp turn on, people usually use pin #20 or #22 from the b41 harness. I spliced into #20, and it worked perfectly. There is one user on here who says he had to run his own remote wire to the fuse panel, because his Kicker amp would not turn on from either wire.
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by CRiME View Post
For amp turn on, people usually use pin #20 or #22 from the b41 harness. I spliced into #20, and it worked perfectly. There is one user on here who says he had to run his own remote wire to the fuse panel, because his Kicker amp would not turn on from either wire.
Thanks for the reply. He actually had a fosgate amp, like I do and ended up getting a kicker. At the Bose amp the remote wire is 12-14volts and at the remote on my amp it's only 8.
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Old 02-01-2015, 07:56 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Cr0tchf4i View Post
Thanks for the reply. He actually had a fosgate amp, like I do and ended up getting a kicker. At the Bose amp the remote wire is 12-14volts and at the remote on my amp it's only 8.
Sounds like your amp setup is similar to mine in that the turn on circuit for the remote equipment in the trunk drew too much current for the stock head unit to supply. Either a slave relay or programmed soft start circuit will do the trick
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:04 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
Sounds like your amp setup is similar to mine in that the turn on circuit for the remote equipment in the trunk drew too much current for the stock head unit to supply. Either a slave relay or programmed soft start circuit will do the trick
Yup, could have used a 5 pin. Instead I just got a fuse connector and wired it to an accessory 15a fuse. No wires showing, so it'll do.
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