is there a concensus on where to draw the remote on signal (12v) (when connecting terminals 23-26) or is everyone doing something different?

how about ground? is iasskicker's suggestion the way to go?

 

after reading this thread, seems pretty simple to hook up a sub by splicing or tapping. My question is, since this is for the low's, can't we do this for the highs and splice into somewhere else to connect to an aftermarket amp and replace the ****ty high and mid range speakers?

 

if you're using a JL amp, the Bose Amp-On signal is sufficient to turn on the JL amplifier. If you use a different brand of amp, you may need to get switched 12VDC from elsewhere.

for ground, on the right side of the trunk, there's a metal enclosure around some equipment. i unbolted it, ground down the paint, slipped a terminal under the enclosure then bolted through. it's very close to the amp and is a solid conx to ground. closer than the method posted on the previous page.

 

Thanks Finagle69....so that would be terminal 20 "amp. on signal" on B41 harness?
is this whole step neccessary though....amp has a signal sensing on/off switch and JL website reads..."Signal-sensing turn-on is activated on the amplifier to eliminate the need to run a remote turn-on lead"

 

^ signal sensing is hit or miss on mine. I'm a fan of hardwiring discrete signals anyway.

 

For my amp, I hooked up a PAC-TR4 (look it up on eBay, only $15 or so) to a wire that I tapped from number 20 on the harness. No problems whatsoever, gives me a reliable on and I'm using a Hifonics amp which is really picky.

 

actually, i think ive read before that it does not always pick signal up....its not that much work in order to be sure...good advice!

 

And if you upgrade in the future, it's good to get the connections right the first time.
Oh and as for finagles ground, my amp is mounted right near the seat so it was less than a foot away. Remember, you want the ground less than 2 feet, the shorter the better. And for wires I highly suggest KnuKonceptz, little more expensive, but they are absolutely wonderful.

 

I tapped the Bose sub amp power-on signal for my JL 500/1v2 with no problems what so ever.

 

I just ran a remote wire to my fuse box, off the cig lighter or something thats switched. So if the car is ON the amp is on.


So i connected the amp to 23-26 and idk it hits nice but doesnt seem like its hitting as hard as before. I had the box out for a LONG time so idk maybe its just me.

Also right when i start the car i hear a real quick thud from the sub. Anyone else get this?

 

lol whatya mean you told me? i told you! haha i crossed out your red circles and drew in the blue one.

 

Yeah you gave me the spot, but I told you a better way to make it a solid ground :P.
Teamwork stoof, teamwork.

 

That's true. it all depends on where you mount the amp. I mounted mine under the right trim piece closest to the back of the car (rear bumper). It's stealth mounted under there. Therefore, my ground location is closer to the amp than yours.

As for you wires, the Cu in those cables is no different than the Cu in cables you can buy at Fry's. I'm an EE.... trust me. Cu is Cu... don't be fooled by higher prices and marketing.

 

If the Bose ON signal doesn't work for some guys (like me, although anyone using JL shouldn't have a problem) you can use the pink wire off the Sat Radio box which is the full 12V+ Switched ACC. I'll try and find the wire number from the service manual.

 

Stoof, iasskicker mentioned picking up a PAC-TR4-low voltage turn on trigger ($15-20)....i read up on it...it gives you a one second delay on vehicle power up...in order to avoid "pops"....