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Where to draw the signal from for the sub?

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Old 02-23-2008, 03:51 AM
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cartman13
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Where to draw the signal from for the sub?

Hi all, I've been seeing a lot of different ideas on where to draw the sub signal from, but not much feedback as to what was successful.

is tapping the speakers on the deck a good idea? (i'd think not as much base would go back here given the inverted system set up).

Has anyone figured out how to tab the door sub signals easily?

Lastly, I was thinking about using a mono amp, does it matter which signal i tap into (left or right??) If i recall it's non-directional anyways?
Old 02-23-2008, 09:13 AM
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kiddmaff5646
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+1 When my system was installed I think they took the signal from the speakers on the rear deck...and honesty I don't think it sounds as good as it should.
Old 02-23-2008, 12:57 PM
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MaxToTheG37
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some one talked about it somewhere on here... do a search and you may find it... ill try later when I have a second.
Old 02-23-2008, 03:26 PM
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Dieseldoug22
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I took the jumped signal from the wires just before it went into the sub amp. There are only the pos. and neg. to worry about, no right or left. And it already has the processing done to it. That way you can leave the subs that the car already has and just add more.
Old 02-23-2008, 04:24 PM
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cartman13
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Originally Posted by Dieseldoug22
I took the jumped signal from the wires just before it went into the sub amp. There are only the pos. and neg. to worry about, no right or left. And it already has the processing done to it. That way you can leave the subs that the car already has and just add more.
Where is the sub amp located? I just want to make sure i get my installer to do it right. Thanks!
Old 02-23-2008, 04:28 PM
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bfranks
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Originally Posted by cartman13
Where is the sub amp located? I just want to make sure i get my installer to do it right. Thanks!
That should help.

Last edited by bfranks; 11-12-2008 at 12:15 PM.
Old 02-23-2008, 06:04 PM
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Dieseldoug22
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Also check out this page. The two wires that you want are the 8 and 9 wires on Connector No. B43.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Bose Amp.pdf (81.1 KB, 4670 views)
Old 02-23-2008, 08:14 PM
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cartman13
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Awesome info guys. Thanks so much!
Old 02-23-2008, 09:37 PM
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jedmonds
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I finally got bass installed. Using a fosgate p300-1 amp and a 10 toxic audio sub with a generic truck box, waiting for my 4080 box to come in, so this will do for now...man I missed having bass...
Old 02-24-2008, 01:12 AM
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dillyyo
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Originally Posted by cartman13
Where is the sub amp located? I just want to make sure i get my installer to do it right. Thanks!
LOL! You might need to find a better installer if he can't find this out! Just in case he is as clueless as you make him out to be, he wants to take the signal BEFORE the amp. Otherwise he will have a processed signal and would have to use a summing/FR flattening device like a Clean Sweep, which would be a total waste of money.

If he asks you questions like the ones you are proposing, I would pack up your ****z and find someone else. Just my .02c
Old 02-24-2008, 07:58 PM
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leeladisky
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Originally Posted by Dieseldoug22
Also check out this page. The two wires that you want are the 8 and 9 wires on Connector No. B43.
So what is the difference between pins 8 & 9, and pins 16 & 17? They both appear to host the same signal... If I want to use a crossover before the amp, to ensure that the Bose system isnt' reproducing the exact same signals, would I need to tap all four wires?

Also, is there a way to reroute the signal using OEM type connectors to avoid cutting wires (i.e., a wiring harness of some type)?

Lee
Old 02-24-2008, 11:08 PM
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Dieseldoug22
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8 & 9 and 16 & 17 are the same wires. 16 & 17 are just coming out of the Bose Amp and 8 & 9 are going into the Sub Amp. I believe it already has the signal processing on it but it is not amplified yet so the signal going into the new amp wont be distorted from having too much amplification going into the new amp. If you want an uncrossed-over signal you would have to get the signal from Connector #B41, Term #23, 24, 25, 26 and 33, 34, 35, 36. Those are the four signals coming from the head unit.

But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.

As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.

Last edited by Dieseldoug22; 02-24-2008 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Adding more info
Old 02-24-2008, 11:52 PM
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leeladisky
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Originally Posted by Dieseldoug22
8 & 9 and 16 & 17 are the same wires. 16 & 17 are just coming out of the Bose Amp and 8 & 9 are going into the Sub Amp. I believe it already has the signal processing on it but it is not amplified yet so the signal going into the new amp wont be distorted from having too much amplification going into the new amp. If you want an uncrossed-over signal you would have to get the signal from Connector #B41, Term #23, 24, 25, 26 and 33, 34, 35, 36. Those are the four signals coming from the head unit.

But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.

As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.
Ok - so if I tap the uncrossed-over signal from #B41 and I don't want to cut wires so that there is no chance of RF interference like alternator noise, etc., is there a harness that would work? Would taps work as it's a fairly low voltage signal????? Any thoughts appreciated.... Also, is there a good place to pull power from in the trunk so that the entire interior doesn't have to be torn up running to the battery directly?

Lee
Old 02-25-2008, 01:04 AM
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MaxToTheG37
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Ok question for you audio gurus....
When I had a amp and subs added to my 02 maxima with bose... I had it installed at a shop. The used the Line convertor. When I was listening to it... there was only like 3 songs that had strong bass hits to it....I was like ..what the heck....

So when I got home I messed with the crossover and turned the ****. After that every bass not hit strong....

What do you guys think of this? Why would a shop set it like that?

Thanks guys!
Old 02-25-2008, 01:12 AM
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cartman13
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Originally Posted by dillyyo
LOL! You might need to find a better installer if he can't find this out! Just in case he is as clueless as you make him out to be, he wants to take the signal BEFORE the amp. Otherwise he will have a processed signal and would have to use a summing/FR flattening device like a Clean Sweep, which would be a total waste of money.

If he asks you questions like the ones you are proposing, I would pack up your ****z and find someone else. Just my .02c
LOL, good advice i'm sure. I just want to know what the experts are doing so i can tell if an installer knows what he's doing. (tough to know you are being bullsh!ted if you have no idea what is going on.)

+1 on the wiring harness. would love to hear if anyone figures that one out.


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