Official Low Offset/Hellaflush Thread
My old 2012 G25x
I just traded it in for a white G37S 6MT.

I had it pretty slammed to the point I was scraping plastic driving on a straight road lol. I raised it up right after I did that lol.
Work Varianza D3S (they are for sale too!)
18x9 0 offset R-Disk
18x10 +5 i forget what disk.
I just traded it in for a white G37S 6MT.

I had it pretty slammed to the point I was scraping plastic driving on a straight road lol. I raised it up right after I did that lol.
Work Varianza D3S (they are for sale too!)
18x9 0 offset R-Disk
18x10 +5 i forget what disk.
Last edited by Yoshi; Jun 29, 2013 at 04:56 AM.
I lowered my car on coilovers on Stance SS's. But Im still rubbing on my bumper brackets. I cut them a bit to the point where the bolt is still functional because Im worried about its strength without it.
How does it hold up if I were just to cut the whole thing off and then bend the metal tab? Is there any way to re-enforce it?
Also any pictures of your shave would be helpful. Thanks in advance!!!
How does it hold up if I were just to cut the whole thing off and then bend the metal tab? Is there any way to re-enforce it?
Also any pictures of your shave would be helpful. Thanks in advance!!!
Last edited by SgtGoldy; Jun 29, 2013 at 10:34 AM.
I cut mine, then hammered the rest upward theres barely any bracket there now. Took a drill and drilled a hole through the bumper tab and a hole through the little bit that was left of the bracket. Secured the bumper to the bracket with a zip tie. No rubbing issues, bumper sits nice and flush to the fender and its secure.
I cut mine, then hammered the rest upward theres barely any bracket there now. Took a drill and drilled a hole through the bumper tab and a hole through the little bit that was left of the bracket. Secured the bumper to the bracket with a zip tie. No rubbing issues, bumper sits nice and flush to the fender and its secure.
Question for people running negative camber with aftermarket camber arms and toe bolts. Were you able to get toe to zero? I recently had my rear subframe replaced and had them do the alignment setting for the rear to -4 and they said the best they could get toe was 0.10 and 0.18. I assumed zero would not be a problem but they insisted that was the closest they could get it. What is a reasonable total toe setting since mine is 0.28.
Alright, my faces are being cut and I need to iron out fitment. Final check. Luke, shut up.
20x9.5 +0
20x10.5 +10
Any last minute adjustments y'all recommend? I know I'm not ***** to the wall extreme like some but I'm hoping that's enough.
Edit:
Running BC Coils, SPC front and rear camber/toe kits. Front fenders rolled and moderately pulled. Rear bumper tab is unmodified at this point.
20x9.5 +0
20x10.5 +10
Any last minute adjustments y'all recommend? I know I'm not ***** to the wall extreme like some but I'm hoping that's enough.
Edit:
Running BC Coils, SPC front and rear camber/toe kits. Front fenders rolled and moderately pulled. Rear bumper tab is unmodified at this point.
Alright, my faces are being cut and I need to iron out fitment. Final check. Luke, shut up.
20x9.5 +0
20x10.5 +10
Any last minute adjustments y'all recommend? I know I'm not ***** to the wall extreme like some but I'm hoping that's enough.
Edit:
Running BC Coils, SPC front and rear camber/toe kits. Front fenders rolled and moderately pulled. Rear bumper tab is unmodified at this point.
20x9.5 +0
20x10.5 +10
Any last minute adjustments y'all recommend? I know I'm not ***** to the wall extreme like some but I'm hoping that's enough.
Edit:
Running BC Coils, SPC front and rear camber/toe kits. Front fenders rolled and moderately pulled. Rear bumper tab is unmodified at this point.



