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Old Mar 25, 2023 | 10:34 AM
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HELLO G37ers



HELLO,I Just Purchased An '10 G37xs woman got crazy man try bypass wire harness so her husband took it too nissan and now the car won't come back on I've read lots these threads like I do see dampness on passenger side,the start of her problems was no dash lights no heated seat and I think radio was working.now the car key won't recognize locks or the manual slot she brought a new key guy couldn't get it programed? Am I making any sense sorry any suggestions would help thanks everyone
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Old Mar 26, 2023 | 05:34 PM
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IDX whether this matters, but that's a 2009.
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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 10:40 AM
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Sounds like IPDM or BCM is cooked from being wet.
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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
IDX whether this matters, but that's a 2009.
title says 2010 ?
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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarymike
Sounds like IPDM or BCM is cooked from being wet.
thanks man I got a new BCM now its not showing the red key anymore still locked so try IPDM ? SHOULD I Buy New Computer With VIN etc To Bypass Taking It To Dealer To Program?
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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mxrobey19
title says 2010 ?
Well, that's not a 2010 front end. I bet you it has a 2009 rear end, too.

Put your VIN into the decoder: https://www.myg37.com/forums/vindecoder.php

You know, the driver's side fender paint doesn't match the driver's door at all, so maybe there was a repair job at some point, and they went all frankencar on replacement parts?

Last edited by Rochester; Mar 28, 2023 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 04:25 PM
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Also - the BCM has to be matched to the car by the dealer (well, anyone with a Consult-III full kit). They're not plug and play.
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarymike
Also - the BCM has to be matched to the car by the dealer (well, anyone with a Consult-III full kit). They're not plug and play.
thanks boss I may have someone with the programing im just trying to re avoid dealer I don't have the 1400 they think it a programing is g9ing to take,Also if my stupid brother let the windows down how could I hot wire a wire from battery to window motors to roll up ? Pretty sure I messed more up im just inpatient and no hometown help thank u guys !
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Well, that's not a 2010 front end. I bet you it has a 2009 rear end, too.

Put your VIN into the decoder: https://www.myg37.com/forums/vindecoder.php

You know, the driver's side fender paint doesn't match the driver's door at all, so maybe there was a repair job at some point, and they went all frankencar on replacement parts?
I've asked her teenage daughter backed her car into her mom's and they couldn't find a bumper with kind-of same paint so they went that! Thanks chief something else I can work on in future gett8ng right kit and repainting!
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Mxrobey19
something else I can work on in future gett8ng right kit and repainting!
You'd need 2010+ headlights as well, making that a very expensive project.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Rochester
You'd need 2010+ headlights as well, making that a very expensive project.

Good luck.
well my junk yard has 3 2010s I'm go8ng to get some and just repaint car mid summer is my goal,headlights I want aftermarket headlights anyway about 300bucks
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mxrobey19
Also if my stupid brother let the windows down how could I hot wire a wire from battery to window motors to roll up ?
In theory, you would have to take the door panel off and "hot wire" the motor directly. I would ONLY do this as a last resort and with the car battery COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED from the car.

At least that is how I did it in the old days. Of course that was before all this safety-based electronics took over. Should still work either way.

What door?
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S
In theory, you would have to take the door panel off and "hot wire" the motor directly. I would ONLY do this as a last resort and with the car battery COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED from the car.

At least that is how I did it in the old days. Of course that was before all this safety-based electronics took over. Should still work either way.

What door?
thanks I watched a YouTube video but his car is different with the yellow and green wire I tried heard a crankle and STOPPED✋️ and on these car my brother tried the manual roll down with key so all windows came down so I was seeing If I can hot wire each window by the main driver fuse or I'd have to individually do all doors thanks man
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 11:00 AM
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Sorry, but that is not how this window system works. There is a small "network" between the BCM and the Driver door switch module (herein "master") and the other three (3) door switches (herein "slaves"). Everything goes through the driver side "Master" switch. One has to request permission from the other before the window, or locks, can move. If any link in that chain, like the BCM issues you are having now, goes down, nothing moves.

In your case, you would have to take each door panel off, using the factory wiring diagram determine what two pins at the motor you would need to "jump" to close the window. Doable, but very time consuming.

I hope you are not going to be going down the proverbial rabbit hole of problems with this car? Seems like the previous owners really screwed it up...

Good luck.

Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Mar 31, 2023 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2023 | 11:59 AM
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@ILM-NC G37S Do the windows go through CANBUS? or are they just all wired through the driver's door switch?

If the latter, he should be able to pull the drivers' door switch out of the door panel (carefully) and provide power to 12V and ground wires into the switch. I would DEFINITELY do this with the battery disconnected. Then use the driver's switch to put all the windows up.

If it's CANBUS and your BCM is borked, well, good luck - better buy a tarp.
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