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...But this galley gasket I keep hearing people talk about is interesting to me.. I'd like to hear how I can help prevent this from happening or is it just non-preventable aside from regular maintenance to the car?
Plenty has been written about this in the Tech/Engine, Drivetrain & Forced Induction forum.
I'm still way down around 20k miles anyways but just thinking down the line some potential things I could run into. Other than the water leaks the car is mechanically/ cosmetically super clean
I hear ya. I feel the same way. I've recently bought a 2010 beauty at 74K. Runs like a top. Of course the galley gasket thing could happen (not likely, but possible), but since there's no preventative action, I'm just enjoying the ride. I once bought a '99 Acura CL with 90K miles that the forums noted had transmission problems. True, but that affected about 1% of all the '97- '99's sold. I ran mine to 180,000 miles. No worries, no tranny issues.
I hear ya. I feel the same way. I've recently bought a 2010 beauty at 74K. Runs like a top. Of course the galley gasket thing could happen (not likely, but possible), but since there's no preventative action, I'm just enjoying the ride. I once bought a '99 Acura CL with 90K miles that the forums noted had transmission problems. True, but that affected about 1% of all the '97- '99's sold. I ran mine to 180,000 miles. No worries, no tranny issues.
that's what I'm hearing is it's rarely an issue but I don't know I've seen it on here and another page a few times now. Also spoke with a Nissan tech and he says unlikely so that's a little more reassuring
The V36 chassis is pretty solid, but like all cars, it has a few week points.
2008 to 2011 VQ37VHR engines (used in all models and the 370Z) has a known issue with an oil gasket that is internal to the engine. When it fails, Infiniti charges big bucks (>$1,500) to replace it. A lot of stuff has to be removed to get at it. Infiniti changed gasket material for 2012 and later engines and they don't suffer this gasket failure.
The (rear) differential has a silicone-filled rear bushing and it often ruptures. This does not impair operation but does cause a little extra noise and vibration. Infiniti did not design this bushing to be replaced, instead the rear cross member is to be replaced at a dealer cost of roughly $1,300. There are aftermarket urethane bushings available but it's a six-plus hour job.
The sunroof drains are rather prone to clogging causing flooded front passenger footwells. These can be cleared easily enough but the vast majority of owners don't learn this until they have Infiniti handle the first occurrence. These drains are rubber tubes that run down the A-pillers to a rubber fitting in the firewall. This rubber fitting can harden and fail, too, also causing wet feet.
Less common issues are
cam timing drives failing
window switches which entail replacing the window motor
front door window seals can leak, yet another cause of flooded footwells
on manual-trans models, the concentric slave cylinder is a bit fragile
as is common with any car with front drive shafts (G37x and G37xS), the front cv-joints wear out.
The only other common complaint is that the automatic transmission is not a willing partner if you want to drive in a sporty manner. If you just want to sleep from point A to point B, it works well. If you want ready down-shifts, buy a Sport model with paddle shifters and use manual-mode.
Convertibles have their own sets of top issues. You'll have peruse the convertible forum for their peccadillos.
Top seals have been known to leak a little. Windshield header and real seal between top and trunk seem to be the most common places.
Flipper(?)
There are several position switches that have to be triggered in a certain order. These may go out of adjustment.
Be careful of items in the trunk that can break the rear glass when the top folds.
As for the rear differential issue, I advise bolting on a brace.
I think You can also try using Sodium Hypo Chlorite based products, they are particularly useful for solvent emulsion cleaner, easily dissolves soiled oil and grease deposit in automotive parts. it works for my machine.
So am I the only person somewhat happy with the 7AT? In Sport mode it seems to operate as intended. In normal mode while bouncing from light to light, it tries to get to 4-5th gear by 40mph, but I think that's typical for fuel efficiency. There is a noticeable fall off in MPG in Sport mode.
It's definitely no dual clutch but I have little to no complaints about the auto in my '13XS. It does downshift if I need it to and it does seem to want to find 4-5 while cruising down the street, as you mentioned, trying to get better gas mileage. I haven't experienced the gear hunting issue that seem to be the main issue with these transmissions either. Obviously I would prefer a manual but I need the awd for winter and the auto allows the Mrs to drive it as well. Happy for now and no issues to speak of.
Hi all, I have 2-2015 (yes 2!) I bought mine and made the mistake of letting my wife drive it! Now we have 2! Love the cars. battled a non-working top on her Red Q60, SCREW Infiniti! They are crazy about their $$$$ costs. I replaced the water soaked pump and relays and it almost works perfectly! For1/500th of the $ Infiniti wanted!! They quoted $10K USD!!! for just the pump and it was really the 4 relays!! Still having issues with the windshield latches missing, but working on it. Any advice to get alignment correctly, much appreciated!
Love driving these!
Real reason for joining the forum was to get knowledge from real people! I know that Infiniti uses consult3+ for diagnosis and programming. No dealership near by and Nissan dealership is weak on Infiniti. I need top relearning as well as other diagnosis programming capabilities!
Any recommendations on OBD2 pass through/software combos that are the most robust for the $$. I found a SCVI-ING China interface but all obsolete. I am willing to spend the $$ to not spend the $$$$$$$$ to Infiniti, but need y'all smart people's input to get the most for the $$.
Please share your knowledge with a fledgling wanna-be vert modder! Thanks!
Ken The twins, one's a ginger!
...I found a SCVI-ING China interface but all obsolete.
Stay away from any of the "SCVI" units. They are NOT RELIABLE and definitely will not work with your 'Vert/ top diagnostics.
Used Consult-3/3-Plus's pop up on eBay from time to time. As for the China cloned ones, good luck. Most of the reputable sites have them discontinued- likely because C3/P is being phased out.
The V36 chassis is pretty solid, but like all cars, it has a few week points.
The only other common complaint is that the automatic transmission is not a willing partner if you want to drive in a sporty manner. If you just want to sleep from point A to point B, it works well. If you want ready down-shifts, buy a Sport model with paddle shifters and use manual-mode.
Even In manual mode the trans takes FOREVER to downshift a couple of gears at a time.
So I have a 2011 G37 Coupe with 20k miles from FL. I've experienced the flooding in the foot wells from the seals being dried up from the Florida heat I'm assuming. Cleared, replaced the grommets & put an extension to go past the firewall so I don't experience the issue again hopefully. But this galley gasket I keep hearing people talk about is interesting to me.. I'd like to hear how I can help prevent this from happening or is it just non-preventable aside from regular maintenance to the car?
I had to change mine at just under 200,000 miles. My suggestion is to use the best synthetic oil possible.
