Yeah, with anti-seize I highly doubt you'll have an an issue. I should have used it, lesson learned the hard way for me huh hahaha. The threads on that o2 sensor were always a little suspect from the beginning

 

Thanks for the pics! I’m going to hopefully tackle this before winter here in New England. I have the OBX RTP’s blnewt originally write a review on. I imagine my bolts are going to be terrible from the winters up here. Already made my concoction of tranny fluid and acetone 🙏ðŸ�¼

 

are you still CEL free....

 

I am, if that's who you were asking

 

Thank you so much bro, so the trick to steering shaftbolt is to use a 3/8 socket with a reducer from 1/2" to get enough clearance. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

Oh yeah, I used 3/8 all the way around. Also the u-joint helped with clearance.

 

I am curious to know if anyone has used stainless hardware on the install in place of the plated fasteners? Do you know?

 

I went and bought stainless nuts & bolts for the rest of the catback, because it seemed like a good idea at the time.

But I didn't replace the bolts at cat flanges to the headers. Too much work to swap them out.

 

hi guys, I attempted to install my resonated test pipes today. I was able to loosen every single bolt except for that one bolt that you have to access from the engine bay it’s the only bolt on the converter facing the engine bay, I was using long 1/2 extension and I was putting all my strength into it and I heard a popping sound and the socket slipped I think Iam starting to round it off so I stopped to get some help don’t know why ****in infiniti made it that way. Any recommendations on that special bolt? I was thinking of using heat like a torch but don’t know if I wanna get heat near that spot it’s very tight with Al out of sensors and wires around . Please let me know what to do for that bolt. I don’t wanna give up and take it to a shop after loosing all the bolts.

 

The best option, if you're replacing the cats anyway, is to break that one off. I used a 1/2 drive 6-point socket, about 36" of extensions, and a 4' cheater bar and they broke fairly easily.

I know people say you have to unbolt the steering stuff, but all I did was unbolt and remove the air intakes and I had no problems getting around everything else.

 

Thanks for the replay, the thing is I think I am starting to round off the bolt head and the socket is slipping when I try to lose it.do you think putting an impact to it is a good idea? or try and use heat?

 

Skip the impact, it will just round off faster. 6-point socket with a piece of paper jammed in as a shim if necessary, long extensions and muscle.

 

As with everyone else, sorry to revive this thread but it looked like the best one to revive. I'm in the process of replacing my OEM cats, and the demon bolt on the passenger side is the only one I have left. It wont budge with Sea Foam Deep creep, a impact or a breaker bar. So I'm considering cutting the bolt head off. My question is, is this a bolt that threads into the flange on the OEM cat? As in, if I get the head of the bolt removed, could it pull through? I have every other bolt loose and the drivers side is already done. Thanks in advance. I couldn't find the answer online when looking.