G37Sam

Bro, you're honestly doing it wrong, how can you tell how much you gained if you have nothing to reference too?

Yes power on a stock G is also nice and linear, what's your point?

Mike

iTrader: (1)

the dyno is just a tuning tool, nothing more nothing less. Who cares if it reads high or low? All that matters is the change/gain/loss.

philter25

iTrader: (4)

this.

If you didnt do a before dyno, for all you know, you could have LOST 10hp due to this mod. Dyno's are a tuning tool and all they will give you is a CURRENT snapshot of your car. If you have nothing to compare it to, you dont know if you have gained, or even lost, hp or tq.

Greg Lecewicz

This last picture illustrates this particular session. 275.5 hp to the wheels on Mustang dyno. Some people say the actual hp is up to 20% higher.
Watch the end of the video for final readings including the torque.


YouTube - Infiniti G37s coupe 275hp to the wheels dyno test Mustang dyno

Mike

iTrader: (1)

That number means nothing with a baseline. We have no idea how the dyno reads. As stated, only the gains/losses matter.

If actual flywheel hp is 20% higher, that comes out to.... 330.6, which is... stock.

wakeboardr116

iTrader: (6)

Again, no before dyno =fail. There is nothing to compare it to.

Greg Lecewicz

So what are your dyno readings gentlemen? I had 2 tests before [when I bought my car] but they were so low [ 257 hp to the wheels and 263 hp] I didn't take them seriously figuring there was something wrong with the machine. My friends GTI with a chip had tested 247 hp the same time.
I'm sure there are Mustang dyno results for the coupe somewhere and they can't be drastically different otherwise it wouldn't make any sense to dyno test.

wakeboardr116

iTrader: (6)

Were those 257 and 263 on that exact dyno with very similar conditions? If so then you might have something to go off of other wise it doesnt matter. There are too many factors involved to just compare to what other people have got. The exact dyno used, weather, altitude, if they had fans blowing on the car, hood up/down even the car itself. There's just too many variables to try to accuratly compare to something else.

I got mine dyno'd last summer. Averaged around 257 on a mustang dyno, but this was middle of summer with 105 degree temps high humidity and no fans going.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you understand the value of a dyno as a tool for tuning/measuring gains.

Numbers from different dynos are not comparable.

Greg Lecewicz

I didn't pay attention to those details. As I recall it it was about the same time 10-11 am. February was much colder but it is Florida so probably close to 70-75F. There were no fans blowing at my car cause he turn them on at my friends VW since it was running hot. First run was 263 and second 257. I think it was a different gear run or something like that. I guess it was a comparable session to the current one but I didn't realize the details. Actually I was quite pissed off about the results and the discrepancy with the manufacturer data I tossed the printout into the guys backyard. The car had hardly any miles on it but not very many now maybe 1500. As you probably know my present mods are Drilled filter holders, K&N filters and the bypass pipes. I ran the extra grounding wires but I don't think it would have any influence on the HP. I don't remember the torque but I think it was close to 230 maybe 227 or so, way lower than the present reading. I will have another test next week since we've put a stinger pipe in the exhaust- see another post. The sound dynamics are tremendous now from a gentle low to a big roar at full open.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

The dyno should be correcting for weather.

Greg Lecewicz

That is quite correct I don't but I learn quickly so elaborate.

Greg Lecewicz

What exactly do you mean?

Danny@Limited Edition

iTrader: (4)

Wow, I like the sound. I like this mod and I like what Greg is doing, experimenting, although however unusual it may seem.

There are tons of info on how to correctly interpret/use a dyno reading. It can be pretty lengthy but generally you want to have a baseline reading then another reading with the mods installed. Compare the 2 to see how much you have gained or lost after installing the mods. That's why people are saying the modded run is useless if there's no baseline to compare to.

So it makes sense that you want to do the baseline run and the modded run under similar conditions to eliminate all factors (or as much as possible) other than the modifications you've put on. This way you'll truly test the effects of those mods, while keeping all other factors (air temp, humidity...etc) as constant as possible between runs. All those external factors (air temp, humidity...etc) can and will affect the dyno reading.

Mike was referring to that dynos usually take into consideration of those external factors and correct the final reading accordingly. But it's always nice to keep track of the testing conditions for more accuracy.


Example:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-...-dyno-fun.html

Mike

iTrader: (1)

The dyno should be connected to some basic weather module, that can compensate for relative humidity, air density/pressure (barometer), and temperature.

PV = nRT.

Higher pressure and colder air makes more power, given that all other conditions are identical, including the car and mods.