Agreed. Looking at the pictures it looks as though it should mount to the OEM unit given the mounting locations.

 

Hi, Arthur I have a couple.

I'm assuming hardware (nuts & bolts) are included, right? Are they SS? Do you include the torque specs?

Have you ever considered engraving your big "B" instead of cutting it out all the way through the brace?

 

Yes the hardware is included, and no it is not ss.
As far as the "B" goes it has no structural impact on the part and we feel it just wouldn't be cost effective to produce having to add another operation to the process. The goal with these parts was to fix a common downfall of these cars and be an affordable solution. Thanks. - Arthur.

 

Do you have the torque specs? And say, can you provide the hardware specs, too, please? You know, in case someone wanted to go out and get the hardware in SS, or Ti. I mean, stainless I could see for northeast cars. And Titanium... well, there's always going to be that guy who goes for titanium hardware. It's a thing.

OK, just asking. I was thinking an engraving might be easier to apply than a cut-out, but you're the guy, it's your rodeo and I'm just really happy to see this come together.

Thanks, Arthur.

 

Sure, the bolts on the Z1 are 10x1.25x80mm and 12x1.75x35mm and the standard are 10x1.25x35mm and 8x1.25x25mm
Best bet for stainless hardware would be McMaster Carr, as for Ti I haven't found a decent source for so I can't really say.

​​​​​ The engraving would be nice but it's just that much more to do on a fairly simple part, we cut the logo and parts all in the same operation on the CNC plasma.

 

Torque specs for both braces cover bolts is the same as stock which isnt Infront of me right now but the upper subframe bolt on the Z1 is 45lbft and the two subframe bolts on the standard are 25lbft

 

Excellent! Thank you. I'm guessing (2) and (1) counts for the first parts, and (2) and (2) for the second, right?

Do you use a serrated flange-head bolt, or flat flange, or washers or nothing?


Could someone here in this thread look that up, please? It's got to be in the FSM somewhere.


Great. Thanks again.

 

Correct plus 2 lock nuts for the smaller bolts on the standard cover brace. Just regular heads and flat washers on all the hardware.

 

Good info and cool beans. This thread has been a blast.

Say, I've been thinking about the install. Do you think it's fair to say the 4-point brace is a total DIY for most anyone with ramps and a torque wrench?

 

Here you go. 32 ft lbs

 

And it adds lightness.

 

Exactly!

 

Sure, they both are really, just takes a little more time on your back to do the Z1 but if you're putting that cover on, odds are adding the brace shouldn't be a problem. Definitely a DIY part for sure tho.
I'm setting up the discount code now and I'll be in touch with the mods on how to go about getting it out to you guys.

 

Trying to decipher all the posts... I think this might be accurate.

Stock Diff Brace

diff cover
(2) m10 1.25x35mm, flat, hex-head bolts
(2) Washers
32 ft/lb torque

subframe
(2) m8 1.25x25mm, flat, hex-head bolts
(4) Washers
(2) m8 1.25 ny-lock nuts
25 ft/lb torque


Z1 Diff Brace

diff cover
(2) m10 1.25x80mm bolts
(2) Washers
32 ft/lb torque

subframe
(1) m12 1.75x35mm bolt
(1) Washer
(1) m12 1.75 nut/washer (apply loctite)
45 ft/lb torque

 

All the washers are flat and standard headed bolts. Not serrated, and the upper Z1 12mm nut is part of a spacer and not a lock nut. It's best to apply locktite or similar on that nut only because it's welded to the washer and nylock would not stand the heat from welding. Other than that all the sizing is correct if anyone wants to order different hardware on their own.