My starter has been intermittently starting, after replacing the dying 2015 battery, I decided (after not being able to get to work on time a few days in a row) to remove it and remedy the arcing issue SonicVQ reported.
Unfortunately I have AWD... So I'm 7 hours in following the TSB. The starter is off, but I cant get the steering joint off. There's just no leverage. And it is STUCK, 7 hours of PB blaster, I can see rust running out every time I spray and it's still won't budge.



Anyone have tips? I'm going to get a big *** pry bar for the lower section, but have no clue how I'll get the top section off.

 

Wow... you are in a tough spot... there is very little room to work.

My only thought is to try to spread the upped and lower u-joint clamps.
Either a large screw driver or a cold chisel may be an option. Just make sure you don't damage the spline, or assembly could be difficult.
The bottom part of the u-joint can't move up/off if the upper part of the u-joint can't slide up.

The other option may be to remove the front drive axle, and remove the starter by moving it to the front of the engine, just like what can be done on a RWD G37.

I wish you much luck!!

 

Oh boy, there's really no way I'm getting this steering coupler off then... I can't even see the upper joint let alone work on it

Pulling the front axle at the engine is a 37-step process involving hub pullers and pickle forks. I already wrestled the passenger side wheel hub... No ty.

Plan C....remount the starter. Use a bunch of u-joint sockets and extensions to get the solenoid nut off (which is also rusty). Unmount starter and expose the solenoid terminal. work a dremel in there to do the heavy lifting, and patiently hand sand the rest... Cross fingers and hope.

 

Good luck with Plan C, I wish you luck!

 

Plan C update. Got the nut n washer off. Holy lord of rust
before:

After:

The terminal itself:


Now we hook everything up and see if it worked!

​​​​​​

 

Well done!!!
If that wasn't the problem, it would have been a problem soon.

I assume you live in an area where snow and salt is common...
That is the most rust I have seen on a starter connection!

 

The fix worked (for now), started up faster and without that click... I'll note that my B-terminal flange nut was split. Me thinks some tech had their hands in here at some point. Will replace next wheel rotation.

For anyone else have plenty of extensions, u-joints, socket sizes and Patience on hand. Also PB blaster, looooots of it.

My car has spent 4yrs in NJ, and 4yrs in MA, but always oil undercoated every 3 years.
Next I'll have to pull the subframe reinforcement bar thing and weld up where it's nearly rusted through already. And drill out some broken bolts that hold the splash shield on.Im not so impressed with the longevity critical components metals on this car so far. My 20yo BMW, (last 10yrs in NE winters) has far less, but has a much more comprehensive undercarriage splash guard.

 

I would use a dielectric grease to coat the terminal to keep away moisture and future corrosion.
In my opinion, BMW has always used better metals for their fasteners. My 20 year old E39 has very, very little corrosion on any bolt.

 

Oil spray every three years? That's a very long time...
I get my car sprayed every year just before winter by Krown and I park it in a covered

Anyways, I'm glad you fixed it.

This post will be very helpful to others as the G37 platform ages.