nice, I’ve had the issue since I bought it almost 2 years ago with 97k miles (104k now) and the laggy throttle and hesitation really makes me want to sell it, if fixing the gasket fixes the rattle and engine hesitation I’ll keep it lol

 

IDK if all of those symptoms are caused by a failed galley gasket (this post may be relevant), but from what I have read and experienced, the specialists at Hill's Garage in Pasadena, MD can diagnose and correct any problems to make it run like it should as well as take things to the next level if desired. Git 'er done and start enjoying your car!

 

Hello everyone, I do apologize For bringing this topic back up , but it’s just to confirm all the information that’s been gathered...
with the replacement of the new galley gaskets did you also replace the Timing chain? would there be anything else I would have to replace while I’m at it?
new G owner so I don’t intend to do any of the work on my own ..
Thanks, any help will be greatly appreciated , hope you all have blessed day.

 

The shop found my timing chain and water pump to be in excellent condition at 135K miles with no need for replacement, so the invoice I posted earlier turned out to be comprehensive. IDK the year or mileage your G but hope it is in similarly good condition. Best of luck to you!

 

Since this seems to be the most comprehensive thread on the "ticking" or "knocking" that is apparent in the first video, I wanted to add my experience.
2012 rwd auto vert - about 44k on the odometer. The noise started a while ago, probably around 25k and I'm thinking 3+ years.
I just had the local shop do the oil pressure test and they found no issues. Oil change was good as well - nothing unusual.
I'm going to let it go for now as I don't want to drop the oil pan or expose the gallery gasket (at that point might as well change it). It's kind of amazing how there are no consistent findings on what's causing this sound.

 

Your experience is consistent with that of others who encountered this problem, including me, and my experience after the fix is consistent with that of others who invested in the appropriate (admittedly laborious / expensive) repair to restore timing control and avoid potential engine damage / failure from recurring ping / knock / detonation / preignition. Best of luck with your decision to roll the dice - you might get away with it! Please keep us posted, as that would be good to know as well (why bother with premium fuel and knock sensors?).

 

Are you saying you don't need premium fuel or knock sensor? I'm sorry, I'm not following.
I do believe there are other Very experienced G/Z shops out there. So it happens, there is one in NC - they've been working on this car for years and haven't found anything wrong, including any potential issues with the gallery gasket.
I will absolutely share any other developments, but after reading endless pages, there still hasn't been a definitive conclusion as to what is causing this sound.

 

As confirmed by those in this and other threads who invested in the repair, the sound is ping / knock / detonation / preignition caused by advanced timing that the actuators are unable to retard in the absence of sufficient oil pressure due to galley gasket failure.

If that is of no concern, then timing control is an unnecessary feature, and those who insist that it is safe to save a few cents per gallon by running regular fuel (with octane insufficient for the engine's compression ratio) don't need to rely on their knock sensors, either. ;-)

 

Alright, there might be a language barrier or something similar because there is no reasonable person out there who would say that knock sensor and therefore timing control is unnecessary as there can be 100s of reasons why these features would be critical to normal operation of any automotive engine, not related to the galley / gallery gasket.
In my case in particular:
- Torque is not showing codes or knock
- Oil pressure is within recommended limits
- Oil change was good - no chunks, shavings, whatever else

If I have a couple of grand fall on my head someday soon, I'll take the car in and replace the gasket just to take a picture for you. But for now, I'll keep an eye one it and see how it goes - all the regular maintenance is generally done ahead of time and I like to think that she's in a top shape.
No worries, if something happens, I have no shame in posting here and you can "told you so" me all day.

 

I'm merely saying that the actuator requires sufficient oil pressure to retard timing when the knock sensor detects a problem. If any one of those components fail, then the other components are rendered ineffective, as the system cannot work as designed. In our case, the knock sensor detects a problem but the actuator is unable to respond because the oil that feeds it through the galley is depressurizing as it blows out past the gasket. It seems unreasonable to ignore that.

This is a complicated repair. The parts are inexpensive, but replacing them is beyond my mechanical ability, so the labor is costly. Like you, I thoroughly investigated alternatives before investing in the repair and by no means am discouraging you from doing the same. The Torque app revealed no anomalous behavior until a VVT solenoid finally failed and the ECU threw a code; I had it replaced as described here hoping that was the underlying problem but it was merely a symptom as described here. Oil pressure within the galley is not measured, and gasket remnants often cannot be detected during oil changes (if they separate, they end up stuck to the bottom of the pan; mine just pivoted on a galley mount as shown in the photo). My shop had planned to drop the pan to remove any gasket detritus and inspect the bearings for wear from ping / knock / detonation / preignition but did not in my case since all pieces of the gasket were found and my Used Oil Analysis (UOA) indicated that damage had yet to occur.

Best of luck with your situation, which could be a different problem!

 

where did you get it done? I see you are using metric units too (I assume somewhere in Canada?)
I am located in SW Ontario and looking to see if someone that knows how to do this can check me oil pressure.

 

Did you take front end of the car off and the rad or
behind the RAD you did the work?

 

Did you take off the whole front end of the car or did the work behind the rad?

 

I don’t know guys….lots of talk about knock sensors and oil pressure. My cement truck rattle happens when I’m at low RPMs and engaged in a higher than normal gear. For example…accelerating from 5-10 mph in 2nd. Its not clutch chatter, its metal on metal like the first video. The engine/car is seems to be vibrating and contacting with something during this higher than normal vibration.

 

Indeed. Mine still 'knocks' randomly, especially from a gentle start, even on a flat road..ie no incline. It never knocks, however, if i accelerate reasonably hard. Like the pressure clamps down on whatever is chattering.

Recently had my oil pan replaced...no metal in the pan either. At least none worth reporting.

There are a few pieces of subframe braces that appear fairly corroded. I wonder....