General Tech Questions Scheduled maintenance, Tune-ups Oil changes, service bulletins and other FAQs for the G37
View Poll Results: What brand of oil do you use in your G coupe/sedan?
Motul (300v or 8100)
56
4.06%
German Castrol
44
3.19%
Amsoil
46
3.33%
Redline
49
3.55%
Royal Purple
79
5.72%
Mobil 1 Synthetic
653
47.32%
Pennzoil Platinum
132
9.57%
Valvoline SynPower
31
2.25%
Eneos Synthetic
22
1.59%
Quaker State
10
0.72%
Lucas Oils (synthetic)
6
0.43%
Schaeffer Synthetic Oil
4
0.29%
Nissan Ester Oil
171
12.39%
Conventional 5w30 "dino oil"
77
5.58%
Voters: 1380. You may not vote on this poll

The DEFINITIVE oil thread

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Old 05-14-2009, 09:37 AM
  #46  
KnoxvilleG37
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Originally Posted by Silver37
I never would have believed it would make that much of a difference changing oil on a modern engine.

I changed it myself and didn't use jackstands at all. I hate using them and feel that they are dangerous. I have the sedan, so that may sit higher than your coupe. Just get a low oil pan and a long 10mm socket for your ratchet and start taking off all those bolts for the bottom pan. You'll need a flat screwdriver to pop off the other fasteners. Once you get that off, the filter and drain plug are right there. I would highly recommend getting an oil filter wrench since my original filter was really torqued down. I couldn't budge it using both hands, so I ended up using a filter wrench. I never would have gotten it off using brute strength.
Yeah the coupe sits too low. Good news is that the coupe has a different bottom skirt that has a crease in it where you only have to take 4 bolts off, fold skirt at the crease which gives you access to the filter and oil drain bolt.....much better than taking the whole damn thing off. I did want to ask those who change their own oil....do you check the other things (battery fluid level, ATF fluid level, etc) that are listed as service items/checkpoints when you get your service at the dealer?
Old 05-15-2009, 08:29 AM
  #47  
marathon_runner
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Originally Posted by Silver37
I never would have believed it would make that much of a difference changing oil on a modern engine.

I changed it myself and didn't use jackstands at all. I hate using them and feel that they are dangerous. I have the sedan, so that may sit higher than your coupe. Just get a low oil pan and a long 10mm socket for your ratchet and start taking off all those bolts for the bottom pan. You'll need a flat screwdriver to pop off the other fasteners. Once you get that off, the filter and drain plug are right there. I would highly recommend getting an oil filter wrench since my original filter was really torqued down. I couldn't budge it using both hands, so I ended up using a filter wrench. I never would have gotten it off using brute strength.
I have a 2009 G37 sedan and I've changed the oil myself. I used the Rhino ramps to do it, and had no problems with those (except one wouldn't stick to the floor of my garage which made it challenging to get the car on). I can't speak for other model years, but with the 2009 sedan, you DO NOT need to take off the entire bottom pan. In fact, Infiniti made it VERY simple to change the oil yourself. The oil drain plug is easy to get to. You don't even need to remove anything, it is in plain sight. The oil filter is fairly simple to get to, but requires unscrewing three screws on the bottom pan (the screws release a flap that provides access to the filter) with a Phillips head screwdriver (a big one). Anyways, I just want to clear that up for the 2009 sedan owners looking to change the oil themselves. You DO NOT have to remove the entire bottom pan.

+1 for RLI Bio-Syn 0W-30.
Old 05-15-2009, 07:35 PM
  #48  
Mike
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+1 for a high quality oil.

Cheap oil works fine, but you bought this car to DRIVE, not to baby

What's an extra 20-40 bucks every 3/4/5k miles?
Old 05-18-2009, 02:29 AM
  #49  
KnoxvilleG37
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Originally Posted by Mike
+1 for a high quality oil.

Cheap oil works fine, but you bought this car to DRIVE, not to baby

What's an extra 20-40 bucks every 3/4/5k miles?

I agree!
Old 05-18-2009, 10:36 AM
  #50  
todd92
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Originally Posted by Mike
+1 for a high quality oil.

Cheap oil works fine, but you bought this car to DRIVE, not to baby

What's an extra 20-40 bucks every 3/4/5k miles?
I disagree. We all know the G37 is a performance vehicle and many of us bought it to really drive it.

Using that as justification for using overpriced boutique oils and changing it more often than necessary is illogical.
Old 05-19-2009, 11:10 PM
  #51  
Silver37
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Originally Posted by marathon_runner
I have a 2009 G37 sedan and I've changed the oil myself. I used the Rhino ramps to do it, and had no problems with those (except one wouldn't stick to the floor of my garage which made it challenging to get the car on). I can't speak for other model years, but with the 2009 sedan, you DO NOT need to take off the entire bottom pan. In fact, Infiniti made it VERY simple to change the oil yourself. The oil drain plug is easy to get to. You don't even need to remove anything, it is in plain sight. The oil filter is fairly simple to get to, but requires unscrewing three screws on the bottom pan (the screws release a flap that provides access to the filter) with a Phillips head screwdriver (a big one). Anyways, I just want to clear that up for the 2009 sedan owners looking to change the oil themselves. You DO NOT have to remove the entire bottom pan.

+1 for RLI Bio-Syn 0W-30.
I wish I had known that before I did the 1st change! I found another thread with a picture from underneath, and it definitely looks like it was designed to work that way. Thanks for the tip...I'll try it next time. The real trick is whether I can use the 4 bolt trick without having to put the car on stands...I still hate doing that!
Old 05-20-2009, 01:08 PM
  #52  
w0ady
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Originally Posted by Mike
+1 for a high quality oil.

Cheap oil works fine, but you bought this car to DRIVE, not to baby

What's an extra 20-40 bucks every 3/4/5k miles?
agrred.
Originally Posted by todd92
I disagree. We all know the G37 is a performance vehicle and many of us bought it to really drive it.

Using that as justification for using overpriced boutique oils and changing it more often than necessary is illogical.
your argument is contradictory. i bought an expensive car with a high performance motor. im definitely going to spend the $ necessary to take care of it. oil for my engine life and tires for traction are the 2 most important things i can do to take care of it.
Old 05-20-2009, 04:09 PM
  #53  
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How is it condtradictory? Mobil 1 or any other synthetic changed every 8-10,000 miles will make your engine far outlast everything else on the car. It is not necessary to buy the 'good stuff' or over change it to acheive this type of reliability. FWIW, the mildly tuned VQ motor which also appears in such race cars as the Altima is hardly a 'high performance' motor.
Old 06-02-2009, 11:05 AM
  #54  
andromeda
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Mobil 1 full syntetic

For this poll when you guys say Mobil 1 is it this? One box should be enough right?

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...=5&item=181782

I'd like to do my car's first oil change and would appreciate your feedback.

Thanks,
A
Old 06-02-2009, 11:11 AM
  #55  
KnoxvilleG37
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Originally Posted by andromeda
For this poll when you guys say Mobil 1 is it this? One box should be enough right?

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...=5&item=181782

I'd like to do my car's first oil change and would appreciate your feedback.

Thanks,
A
That's exactly what you'd need. Our car takes 5 and 1/8 qts for a full oil change with a new oil filter per the owners manual.
Old 06-02-2009, 11:14 AM
  #56  
andromeda
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Thank you Sir. One last thing, not sure what to do with the oil filter, what to get and from where?
What do you use for yours?

Thank you so much for your super fast answer!
A
Old 06-02-2009, 11:14 AM
  #57  
Mike
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Yes. You'll use 5 and 1/8 bottles, so carry the leftover in case you ever need to top off
Old 06-02-2009, 11:18 AM
  #58  
andromeda
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How about the oil filter? What and from where?

Also Mike I asked you a while ago how much for the part and to install the Vehicle Alarm Impact Sensor..Could you please comment on that as well?

My Infiniti dealer gave me nothing on that, no feedback at all..

Thanks,
A
Old 06-02-2009, 11:24 AM
  #59  
KnoxvilleG37
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Well some will say stay with an OEM Nissan oil filter (which is basically a Fram filter in disguise if you ask me). You can get one from your Infiniti dealer's service/parts dept. But the truth is, in the Factory Service Manual, it says that an OEM or SIMILAR filter should be used. So it does NOT have to be OEM.

If you're running Mobil 1 oil, you can either go with a Mobil 1 filter (part M1-108) or Purolator PureOne (part PL14612). Both easily obtained from Advance Auto Parts. Both with the highest ratings of aftermarket oil filters.....the Mobil 1 filter is twice the price of the PureOne, but the PureOne was ranked as "the best" oil filter on the market with Mobil 1 in an extremely close second.

There ya go, you're set.
Old 06-02-2009, 11:29 AM
  #60  
SkyMG37x
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Originally Posted by todd92
How is it condtradictory? Mobil 1 or any other synthetic changed every 8-10,000 miles will make your engine far outlast everything else on the car. It is not necessary to buy the 'good stuff' or over change it to acheive this type of reliability. FWIW, the mildly tuned VQ motor which also appears in such race cars as the Altima is hardly a 'high performance' motor.
Last time I checked the VQ35DE engine in the Altima is not the same as the VQ37VHR in our car and the 370Z, which is a high performance engine. Regardless, from this and your other posts it's clear you believe using synths with long change intervals is all you need to do. All I can say is if you have any engine issues that require warranty work, your intervals will clearly be outside of the factory schedules and likely void the warranty.

Last edited by SkyMG37x; 06-02-2009 at 11:50 AM.


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