So Motul is the ****?

 

Any Group V oil.

Be careful in your choice, as racing oils don't typically have the detergents necessary for street driving.

 

Whatever oil you are using in your Honda shears down with only 3000 mile OCI. I would rate it as a complete fail. I wouldn't be bragging about those UOA to anyone.

I have not experienced any meaningful shearing with Group III oil. I go the full 17,000 mile OCI in my BMW 330i and both BMW 5W-30 Synthetic and Mobil 1 0W-40 have held up over that OCI. Both are mostly Group III basestocks.

 

EXACTLY, Many Yamaha FJR owners are running Rotella T-syn in
their much higher reving engines WITH GEARBOXES and not
experiencing shear at 5K OCIs.. and that's probably the last
application in the world that Shell ever dreamed that oil would
be used in...AND exactly why we need to see UOAs for the 3.7...
Not the 3.5 and certainly not Honda engines.

I don't understand Mikes denial of the data at all.
If he looks at the UOAs for Rotella T-syn in his application
he'll see that his "on paper" arguments are contrary to the "real
world application" data, as is such with many oil/engine combinations. But hey, it's his car and his money. Just don't tell us what will
and won't won't work, when the UOAs for Rotella are so superior
to the one Mike posted for Motul.

Mike's argument is a text book example of why
we need those UOAs and this discussion on this board in order
to find out what really works well in our VVel 3.7s. Dont focus
on the oil, focus on the oil after it's used in a specific engine.
Guys who keep arguing for a certain brand/base stock/or additive package without UOA data in a specific engine are just wasting our time.

 

Maybe I should clarify that only sample 6 is 300V. Read the data. Zero shear. F22C runs tighter clearances, runs hotter, and at higher RPMs than a VQ37. 5 is 8100. 4/3/2 are regular oils. 1 is factory fill.

Why do you think so many motorcycles use Motul? Why do WRC/LeMans cars run the EXACT same 300V that you can buy off the shelves? They don't use special blends made exclusively for them.

 

uoa for rotella t-syn 5w40 - Mazda Forums
Shell Rotella T Syn 5W40, 3,333mi, 03 Subaru WRX - Bob Is The Oil Guy

I see plenty of shear. The operating temp viscosity should be at the HIGH end of the acceptable range, check out the UOA for virgin Rotella T-Syn. That's where it is. Is it in the acceptable range of viscosity? Certainly. Is it LOSING viscosity over time? Yes.

This oil is breaking down, plain and simple.

Now, compare UOA of 300V/Eunos/Amsoil, virgin vs used. You cannot deny the data. I don't give a crap what engine it is. The data is consistant. Hell, use a raced 600cc or literbike if youw ant.

 

Mike, I agree with most of your comments as long as cost is not
a factor, you are right.....but you know that every engine/oil/driver/
driving environment is going to yield different results in a UOA. I use
Rotella in 08 Goldwing with exceptionally low wear and shear. I used
it in my M35 with exceptional results, but wouldn't think about
putting it in my G37!!!

We need to see UOAs on the 3.7....not the 3.5 or some other racing
engine you're going on about to know what gives the "best bang for the buck" performance in the 3.7.

Why do you recommend Motul so strongly? Haven't you seen enough
UOAs for PP 5w30 run in 3.5s to recommend that over Motul???
Geeze Louise it's showing some of the best characteristics I've ever
seen in every Nissan VQ35 oil analysis posted. Why can't you
admit that and freely share that information with others that
may not know?....Sorry If i'm being too harsh on you.

I haven't seen one Motul or Redline UOA for a 3.7 and It's driving me
crazy. They are probably available on Dysons site, but it costs
$100 to access them for a year. ....I can get a case of Redline for
that!

 

G37 owner here told by service dept that these cars dont need anything more than reg oil.... who knows.....

 

I just got an oil change yesterday. Up until now, I have been using the 'recommended' oil from the dealership as they didn't recommend synthetic of any kind until 24,000 km. However, at about 11000 km I got the 'knock'. I got the ECU updated but they didn't have the Ester oil on hand as per the TSB. Yesterday they put in the Ester oil and the engine runs quieter than it ever did when I first got it! I just wish I didn't have to pay the high price for the oil.

I asked the dealership if my car would have been filled with Ester oil at the factory and they said no. They never even had it in stock as I was apparently the first to come in with the knocking issue. If Infiniti says this is best for my car, guess what, I am using it.

 

Blario, Nissan factory fills all 3.7 motors with their Nissan Ester oil.
As to which oil to use, I have been told 5 different things by
5 different Nissan and Infiniti Service managers. Some use bulk
conventional 5w30 "SM" rated oil and some use synthetic from
the first change. Here's what I've been able to find out....

Nissan designed their new Nissan Ester oil specifically for the
3.7 engine. It is a conventional oil with esther added to
meet the unique lubrication requirements of the VVel actuator
and motor in it's valve train. The oil also has suspended
nano carbon particles that react with Nissan's cylinder
and piston coating to further reduce friction. Nissan
applied for a European patent, but it was denied because
the suspension of carbon in oil is not new and others
are already using the "nano technology".....hopefully
this will pave the way for the supplier to market the
stuff on their own. Aside from the carbon friction modifiers,
we know that the 3.7 "likes" and "wants" ester for it's top end.

As to the argument/belief/advice not to run synthetic until
the engine is broken in, I have yet to hear a logical or
convincing argument for this. Synthetic is not "magic" or
more slippery than conventional oil, nor will it prevent
break-in....it just holds up longer than conventional
oil. BUT, It makes sense to do several short
interval oil changes on a new engine to get
the assembly lubes and bearing coatings
out of the engine while the "chemestry"
is settleing in, and it's cheaper to
do several conventional changes than
it is to do several synthetic changes.
Besides, I don't know anyone who has waited
more than 2 weeks to drive their car like they stole
it!!! Many higher performance engines are delivered
with a full synthetic fill, so the "wait 'till after
break-in for synthetic" arguement is mute.

What we know for sure is that the 3.7 "likes", "wants",
and "prefers" ester for it's top end. Will it run on
other stuff?....sure it will. Will it last on other stuff?
.....probably long enough. Will it benefit from Ester?
.....no doubt.

You can get Nissan for $12/quart, or you can get Motul
or Redline full ester based synthetic delivered to your
door for around $9/quart. For 25% less than the
Nissan oil, I'm going with the Redline and 6 month change
intervals (5 to 7K).

 

^^ Well stated.

Also, as it is (fairly) well known, the VQ37 also has a tendency to overheat. I've been speaking to some 370z owners who track regularly, and we are trying to determine if the oil used has any bearing on oil temperatures due to the rather unique requirements of VVEL.

The three things we will be testing is:

Nissan Ester Oil
Group V base stock (PAO, ester) oil (300V in our case)
All other oils (anything that is not the Nissan Ester oil, and not a Group-V base stock oil)

If we get any conclusive results, I will post them, but it may be a while.

 

Hi Blario,
Had my first oil change done at the dealer in Calgary and was given the choice to use any oil I wanted. I picked the Nissan Ester for peace of mind and because the price didn't knock me off the chair (C$127 for oil and filter).
Do you have a preference in which gas you use?
I've been trying different brands and find the Shell Premium gives the best power/mileage while Husky seems to bother the engine.

 

Ulitmately it doesn't matter to me if the car came filled with Ester Oil or not. Looks like I am now using it for the lifetime of my car - like I said, if Infiniti says this is the best, then I'll use it.

Calgarywinger - I like Shell Premium the best, but I'll use Esso Premium as they have next to no additives in their fuel. Petro-Can and the rest all have additives in them that (apparently) build up in the engine. I am no expert, but my dad is and he recommends Esso (a little biased) but also likes Shell. I would agree that the ethenol blended gas doesn't do much good - I do believe I read somewhere that any ethenol is NOT recommended with this engine (but I could be mistaken)

 

My engine is running much smoother since my first oil change with Nissan Ester oil. The smoothness could be the result of putting over 7500 miles on the engine and all parts setting in.

I will continue to using Ester oil until it's proven it's just snake oil.

 

Does Motul or Redline have the magical "nano" particles that are supposedly in Nissan's ester oil?

If this oil was essential for our engines it would be in the owners manual and dealerships would be pushing it. I don't think we would be left guessing if this oil makes a difference, if it actually did make a difference....