Got hit with it blowing today. On the firewall side I'm 99% sure I got all of the plastic out

On the motor side, I am pretty sure the plastic crumbled into the hose. What issues can come from this? How can I resolve it without crying myself to sleep tonight? ​​

 

I am sure you will be fine on this. Any small pieces will end up circulating throughout the system and likely be "ground" up by the water pump impeller and/or end up at the bottom of the radiator. Unless you estimate there to be some large chunks I do not see any condition where any of those flimsy plastic pieces would "gum up the works."

To note, coolant flows FROM the engine TO the heater core, so there is a chance any small pieces will end up there and not make it to the rest of the system.

For "peace of mind," after repair, fill the system with water, run the engine for a few minutes just to circulate then drain and fill with proper coolant.

 

It was the entire half of the connector on the engine side. Is there a bypass valve that stops coolant from flowing through that hose if the heat doesn't go on? Or is it just a blend door stopping air from going over the heater core? If there is a bypass and coolant doesn't go through, I can pull the connector off and get a small cup in there to catch anything that comes out.

I used a temp fix while waiting for Z1 part to come through. Going to do passenger + driver.

What damage would it cause to the heater core? Leaks or just bad/no heat?

 

Coolant flows continuously through the heater core. There is no "bypass" or "shut off valve" like older cars used to have (which is a shame, but...). Blend doors actuate to control desired temperature output.

I am on mobile so can't be of much help, but can you remove the entire hose from the engine to the "connector" and see if you can "fish" the broken half out? Granted it will be a major PITA as there is limited room, but that will give you the peace of mind that you seek.

There are plenty of folks (in the warmer/ southern climates) that bypass the heater core directly though that would not address the issue of the broken half. In the event one of the tubes were "blocked" you might experience slightly diminished heat output. This is all conjecture at this point which will get you nowhere.

Best advice, do what you can to remove the broken half. Flush the system, drain/ fill, and drive on.

 

Honestly was just concerned it would damage the heater core or engine. Knowing all it could ever do it is clog the heater core is better than knowing it could settle somewhere bad. Going to buy new hoses and connector with new spring clamps from Z1 and just do the work. I want to get 1 Z1 version, and 1 dorman version to do both sides. Would you say the driver side connector is more important to have the bleeder on it? Truthfully, I use the no spill funnel to bleed it, but I'm assuming sometimes that won't work as air can get trapped so having the bleeder on one of the sides would be better? Which one?

 

I would just focus on the passenger-side though I understand the call to do both sides. The driver-side unit has a extremely low failure rate though while you are in there doing the work... Though I understand you are probably not looking for more work than is necessary, what is the age/ health of your hoses? In other words, this might be a prime time to do all of the maintenance on the cooling system and being done with it for the next 2 years or so.

In all honesty, I have never once used any of the bleeder valves to "burp" the system and have never had any issues like others have claimed. Just use your preference to whichever side is easiest to access if you plan to use the valve.

 

They sit too low in the system to be useful. Spill free funnel is the better option.

Recall that the early Gs had a bleeder on the driver's side (carried over from the G35), but it was removed in I believe 2011.

 

Ahh I have a 2011 so I guess I don't need it. Will a normal 3/4 to 3/4 fit there?? I'll buy the dorman and save some money for now.

Would you guys recommend replacing the hoses? They aren't cut or anything, just massively imprinted with the spring clamps lol.

 

I did this as a 'preventive maintenance' item a long time ago. At the the time the hoses were in good condition so I just used the new connector and spring clamps. Zero issues to this day. The Dorman 3/4" piece should suffice just fine.

 

I just wiped my connector hoses off and reused them as they were still flexible with no cracking. No leaks to this point. Dorman connector is perfect since you can buy it at retail stores.

 

Which part# did you get? I have to order on Amazon cuz neither AutoZone, oriellys, or advanced have it in stock.

 

Though any 3/4" hose connector from Lowe's / Home Depot will work as well.