G37 Sedan

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Old Oct 18, 2024 | 08:17 PM
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Fluids

Hey guys, I’m currently finishing up my engine swap as my old engine spun a bearing, I need to add fluids back in and I was wondering if I use atf fluid for the transfer case as I have a 2009 g37X. I was also thinking of doing a drain and fill for the transmission but idk if it would be a good idea, wouldn’t want it to start slipping, any thoughts thanks?
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Old Oct 18, 2024 | 08:44 PM
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From: SoMD
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
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Old Oct 18, 2024 | 10:11 PM
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I agree on Matic-J for the transmission. I've performed fluid exchanges every 35K miles or so, but if the fluid has never been changed then the general consensus seems to be that drain and fills are a better option.

Note that if you don't want to lay under the car while it's running on jack stands or ramps (required to check the fill level correctly), the dealer performs the drain and fill for relatively cheap (only uses 3-4 quarts of fluid vs. the 12 quarts used in the exchange). However, the dealer doesn't drop the pan and clean the magnets inside.

I used Amsoil Severe Gear in the Diff and Change the fluid at 35K miles as well: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-seve...gear-lube-svg/

I like that it claims to control thermal runaway and control operating temperatures. I'm sure you'd be fine with the factory gear oil as well.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by beefychicken
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
So today when I went to get my atf fluid from the Nissan dealer, they told me that they no longer had matic J and that matic S was just the new version of matic J, should I just use matic s when it comes to the transfer case too?
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 11:41 AM
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The last time I changed fluids, I got J from Amazon,. (At the time the nearest dealer was 90 minutes away)
If the dealer said S is good to go, then i wouldnt worry too much.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AV37
So today when I went to get my atf fluid from the Nissan dealer, they told me that they no longer had matic J and that matic S was just the new version of matic J, should I just use matic s when it comes to the transfer case too?
Yes the S is backwards compatible. They stopped making the J years ago.
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Old Oct 19, 2024 | 10:35 PM
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Matic-S is what Z1 sells as well. No worries.
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by socketz67
Matic-S is what Z1 sells as well. No worries.
Z1 just buys their stuff from the dealer and then sells it to you. They're just the middleman.
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mummy2
Z1 just buys their stuff from the dealer and then sells it to you. They're just the middleman.
But they sell at a 30% discount compared to the dealer.
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by socketz67
But they sell at a 30% discount compared to the dealer.
Not all dealers charge the same price. Plus the shipping fees Z1 charges usually negates any savings.
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Old Oct 23, 2024 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mummy2
Yes the S is backwards compatible. They stopped making the J years ago.
So I should be able to use straight Matic S for the transfer case then?
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mummy2
Not all dealers charge the same price. Plus the shipping fees Z1 charges usually negates any savings.
I'm in CA, so dealers go a little bananas when it comes to parts as all of them want to be Mercedes now.

ex. On my son's new/used 2012 Honda CRV, Honda wanted $1679 to change the front struts only (they use aftermarket because OEM are no longer made) and another $3000 to change the front ball joints, tie rod ends and end links which are all shot after 102K miles.

I purchased and entire set (including rears) of KYB Excel-Gs for $400, and my mechanic will install those and new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends and end links I bought off Rock Auto for $130 + 4 hours x $145.

$5000 (half the cost of what I paid for the CRV) vs. $935. Most of the cost is parts. Not sure how they stay in business anymore.

I am able to get a 15% discount from a certain guy I work with at Infiniti, but the prices are still higher than Z1. I pay less than $17 shipping for oil changes (4-5 quarts, filter, washer - $70 total for Nissan Ester Oil) and I paid less than $50 in shipping to get everything needed for a coolant drain and fill (coolant, clamps, hoses, thermostat, new cap, etc.). Shows up in a single box within a week. Easy peazy chicken squeezy.


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Old Nov 21, 2024 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by beefychicken
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
Good infor as I must do this when weather warm up here
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