Fluids
Fluids
Hey guys, I’m currently finishing up my engine swap as my old engine spun a bearing, I need to add fluids back in and I was wondering if I use atf fluid for the transfer case as I have a 2009 g37X. I was also thinking of doing a drain and fill for the transmission but idk if it would be a good idea, wouldn’t want it to start slipping, any thoughts thanks?
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
I agree on Matic-J for the transmission. I've performed fluid exchanges every 35K miles or so, but if the fluid has never been changed then the general consensus seems to be that drain and fills are a better option.
Note that if you don't want to lay under the car while it's running on jack stands or ramps (required to check the fill level correctly), the dealer performs the drain and fill for relatively cheap (only uses 3-4 quarts of fluid vs. the 12 quarts used in the exchange). However, the dealer doesn't drop the pan and clean the magnets inside.
I used Amsoil Severe Gear in the Diff and Change the fluid at 35K miles as well: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-seve...gear-lube-svg/
I like that it claims to control thermal runaway and control operating temperatures. I'm sure you'd be fine with the factory gear oil as well.
Note that if you don't want to lay under the car while it's running on jack stands or ramps (required to check the fill level correctly), the dealer performs the drain and fill for relatively cheap (only uses 3-4 quarts of fluid vs. the 12 quarts used in the exchange). However, the dealer doesn't drop the pan and clean the magnets inside.
I used Amsoil Severe Gear in the Diff and Change the fluid at 35K miles as well: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-seve...gear-lube-svg/
I like that it claims to control thermal runaway and control operating temperatures. I'm sure you'd be fine with the factory gear oil as well.
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
Yes the S is backwards compatible. They stopped making the J years ago.
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ex. On my son's new/used 2012 Honda CRV, Honda wanted $1679 to change the front struts only (they use aftermarket because OEM are no longer made) and another $3000 to change the front ball joints, tie rod ends and end links which are all shot after 102K miles.
I purchased and entire set (including rears) of KYB Excel-Gs for $400, and my mechanic will install those and new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends and end links I bought off Rock Auto for $130 + 4 hours x $145.
$5000 (half the cost of what I paid for the CRV) vs. $935. Most of the cost is parts. Not sure how they stay in business anymore.
I am able to get a 15% discount from a certain guy I work with at Infiniti, but the prices are still higher than Z1. I pay less than $17 shipping for oil changes (4-5 quarts, filter, washer - $70 total for Nissan Ester Oil) and I paid less than $50 in shipping to get everything needed for a coolant drain and fill (coolant, clamps, hoses, thermostat, new cap, etc.). Shows up in a single box within a week. Easy peazy chicken squeezy.
Nissan Matic-J for the transfer case and Matic-S for the 7AT.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
Drain and fill should be fine, but please make sure the follow the fill procedure exactly as written in the forum.
If you are over 100,000 miles (160,000Km) then i would recomend a drain and flush of the front and rear diff as well. Front and rear diff fluid: Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE 80W-90 or SAE 90W if you live in an area that never dips below freezing.
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