The two rear subframe nuts keep coming loose
The two rear subframe nuts keep coming loose
To preface this a few months ago I replaced the rear subframe on my sedan because I suspected that the original one was damaged. The shop that had done the repairs had ordered a subframe but did not install it. After I got the car back the two rear tires were wearing unevenly. The car did not suffer any frame damage so I thought maybe a control arm mounting point was messed up and over looked. After I removed the rear subframe I learned that the repair shop put the wrong camber arm on one side(a straight one as opposed to slightly curved) and did not replace the lower spring seat on that spring bucket.
I swapped over the Z1 diff bushings and subframe collars to the new subframe and put some rubber shims where the lower spring seats would go then took it for an alignment, and everything checked out. But now the rear two subframe bolts keep backing off. I’ve had to re-torque the nuts 3 times now, all times I’ve been able to get about 3/4-1&1/4 turns until 88 ftlbs. I put threadlocker medium strength on the most recent time but the creaking that indicates the nuts need re-torquing has developed again.
I swapped over the Z1 diff bushings and subframe collars to the new subframe and put some rubber shims where the lower spring seats would go then took it for an alignment, and everything checked out. But now the rear two subframe bolts keep backing off. I’ve had to re-torque the nuts 3 times now, all times I’ve been able to get about 3/4-1&1/4 turns until 88 ftlbs. I put threadlocker medium strength on the most recent time but the creaking that indicates the nuts need re-torquing has developed again.
Washers don't need to be replaced unless they are deformed. I'm sure the rear brace is fine, just wanted to make sure it was there.
I'm assuming you using a torque wrench for these bolts?
Last edited by thescreensavers; Feb 27, 2023 at 12:23 PM.
Thanks for the photos, I would first try replacing both the rear nuts(make sure it's the correct grade) and running a die over the threads to ensure they are clean and good working order. Ideally would also replace the stud but try a die see how that works.
Washers don't need to be replaced unless they are deformed. I'm sure the rear brace is fine, just wanted to make sure it was there.
I'm assuming you using a torque wrench for these bolts?
Washers don't need to be replaced unless they are deformed. I'm sure the rear brace is fine, just wanted to make sure it was there.
I'm assuming you using a torque wrench for these bolts?
I searched for a while trying to find the thread size for the studs and couldn’t find it so putting it out there. M14x1.5
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I ended up re-threading the studs and nuts and that seems to have solved the issue. I will keep an eye on it but so far after about 150 miles the torque has held.
I searched for a while trying to find the thread size for the studs and couldn’t find it so putting it out there. M14x1.5
I searched for a while trying to find the thread size for the studs and couldn’t find it so putting it out there. M14x1.5
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: People's Republic of IL
No kidding...
https://www.permatex.com/products/th...range-gel-5-g/
Never heard of such a thing, but apparently it does exist.
https://www.permatex.com/products/th...range-gel-5-g/
Never heard of such a thing, but apparently it does exist.
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