Hello all,
My steering column lock went bad on my 2010 G37x. I did a lot of reading and all the problems led back to this. Has anyone replaced this part? All of the youtube vids show Altimas, 370Zs, and GTRs, but no Infinitis. The process looked pretty simple and I bought the part on Ebay and figured I would pull the fuse once the car was running again. Fast forward to today when I started doing the job, I pulled all the dash parts off and got to the steering column. On all the Nissans I watched on youtube the part was right on the bottom of the column with the breakaway bolts facing the side. On the G37 the part is up and to the right with the breakaway bolts facing up with no room to cut or punch them through. Looks like the whole column needs to be removed in order to swap the part out.
Does anybody have any experience with this or maybe I'm missing something?

I tapped the box and the car started, I couldn't get the fuse box out without moving the battery and the car shut off a few minutes later and will not start again by hitting it.

Any help is appreciated, Thanks

 

If anyone has done this repair, does the steering column need to be removed to get to the part?
thanks

 

just did a quick search of the forums and it seems as if the column has to come out.

Here is what i found: https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...errerid=369648

 

On the G, unless you are a contortionist, you will have to lower the column to get to the breakaway bolts. There is no other way around that. There may be a "trick" but I've never seen one. Crappy design, but...

Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT have to remove the battery to pull the fuse. The IPDM/er just unclips from the fender bracket and lifts straight up. The harness has enough slack that allows you to pull it up. Granted, the hood strut can get in the way, but it can be done. I did it long ago.

 

Thanks everyone.

 

The column does not have to come out. I got mine out by moving the seat back and laying face up in the floorboard. I did not take off the knee brace/cover. Not easy but doable. I also have a '10 G37x.

 

How did you remove the breakaway bolts that are coming from the top down in a space where a tool won't fit?

 

• Grind a slit on it so you can use a flat head screw driver
• Take a chisel and hammer and start tapping it counter clock wise

 

I used a small flat head screw driver (as a chisel) and a small hammer and hit it on the lefty Lucy side and it spun the one easily accessed. I then removed it by hand which is easy. This will make the box lose and I wiggled it back and fourth until the other one was lose. Literally 5-8 minutes. This method is easy when you don't have access to a Dremel, like in a junk yard or in a parking lot. I did this 2x, street and junk yard.

These bolts are torque breakaway bolts where the head is broken off at near the torque requirement so you can't remove them. They are soft and easily chiseled and a stripped bolt remover can remove them easily as well but need to be tapped on the head.

 

The technique to remove the breakaway bolts isn't the issue. There is nowhere to fit a tool, my hand barely fits in the area where the bolts are. They are facing downward in a closed cavity to the right side of the steering column. Anyhow, I got the car started and removed the fuse, only to have it not be able to be shut off with the ignition button.. on to the next issue.

 

Are you sure the steering lock was the issue in the first place? Pulling the fuse has absolutely nothing to do with not be able to turn the car OFF.

Sounds like a wet BCM. Anytime the START button doesn't function as intended the issue is with the BCM.

 

It probably was the BCM the whole time, all the problems started on a bad rainy day. I ordered the part to try replacing it. It looks like either way I have to have it towed to the dealership to program it, and I won't know if it works til I get it there. I dried the old one off and will install it and see if it does anything before I bring it in.
Thanks

 

Well I got another unit from an 2009 that looked exactly like the unit off my 2010 and it didn't work. I got the $50 emulator off fleabay and that didn't work. Does the key have to be coded to the units or car or ??? WTH do I have to do next?!?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373648032777