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Nitro, you're just having a rough week lol Hope you got the battery all figured out. Might want to have your alternator checked, make sure it's charging the battery sufficiently. The comment about the noise you're hearing being a suspension issue is a good point. Although if your car doesn't have super high mileage, it's not very likely. My current G sedan is over 100k on stock suspension and no issues or noise whatsoever. Also had a coupe before this that didn't need suspension work until 250k miles and that was just in the front. If you're not the original owner though, it's hard to know how the car was treated or what kind of roads it was on every day. Definitely worth checking that out. Even if you don't solve that noise problem, you could find another problem before it becomes a real headache.
Well, since we're at it, the battery decided to die on me yesterday. I was able to get a jump from a friend & make it back home. Once I got back, I decided to run to Advance Auto & pick up a new battery to avoid any more headaches lol. Well, needless to say yesterday was a complete disaster! All of the searches/ vehicle info I could find online lead to me believe that I needed a Group 35 battery (the label on the original battery is obstructed by the plastic shroud, not to mention it's facing backwards). I pick up a new battery only to find out it's the wrong size. Turns out the car takes a Group 24. I head back & exchange batteries. All is well until I go to put the new one in... I didn't realize that the posts on the oem battery are on the opposite side and thus the cables will not reach to the new one! I've never seen anything quite like this. Does it take some sort of "special" Group 24 battery?! It's my mistake for not making sure I got the correct one. I didn't even think of looking at the location of the posts, I thought they'd be all the same! This will be my 3rd trip back to AA, hopefully this time I get it right!
There is 24 and 24R. R stands for reverse, which means the posts are reversed.
Why didn't you just tell Advance Auto what car you had and let them select the battery?
You know Sonic, I should have done that! I thought to myself, I'm a car guy, replacing a battery is about as easy as it gets (except for the air filters). Boy was I wrong on this one lol lesson learned.
Nitro, you're just having a rough week lol Hope you got the battery all figured out. Might want to have your alternator checked, make sure it's charging the battery sufficiently. The comment about the noise you're hearing being a suspension issue is a good point. Although if your car doesn't have super high mileage, it's not very likely. My current G sedan is over 100k on stock suspension and no issues or noise whatsoever. Also had a coupe before this that didn't need suspension work until 250k miles and that was just in the front. If you're not the original owner though, it's hard to know how the car was treated or what kind of roads it was on every day. Definitely worth checking that out. Even if you don't solve that noise problem, you could find another problem before it becomes a real headache.
Hey Boomer, thank you for the input! The car has about 47k on it right now & I'm the 2nd owner. I believe it had roughly 38k when I bought it... I'd be very surprised if the noise issues I'm having are suspension related but you never know. I dropped the car off to my mechanic this morning. I will provide an update as soon as I hear from him!
There is 24 and 24R. R stands for reverse, which means the posts are reversed.
Yes, the 24R w/ 700CCA is exactly what I needed. It was tricky to replace since the plastic shrouding along the windshield needs to be removed in order to access that tie down bracket. It's also the reason I couldn't see the label on which type of battery I needed in the first place. It's not the most friendly design when it comes to maintenance but the battery itself is very well protected so I can't complain too much. I finally got the correct battery in & all is well (for now at least).
Final Update: Problem fixed. And the solution was so simple. The two nuts that attach the hanger onto the body above just needed to be backed out a little bit, maybe a 1/4" or so if that. By doing so, it provides just enough resistance to allow the muffler to move freely up & down without hitting anything. My mechanic was kind enough to give me a free pass on this one. He said it was about a 2 minute job which I totally believe! Needless to say, he's been very good to me and always gets me in that day or the next. I really can't thank him enough.
Here's a photo for reference:
1.) The plastic flange on the hanger that attaches to the body is circled in Yellow.
2.) The nuts that needed to be backed out/ loosened circled in Green.
Now that you know you needed the extra clearance at the muffler(s), wouldn't it make sense to put 1/4" washers on the underside of that bracket, so that you can torque down those nuts? The only thing keeping them from backing off now is the rust.
Now that you know you needed the extra clearance at the muffler(s), wouldn't it make sense to put 1/4" washers on the underside of that bracket, so that you can torque down those nuts? The only thing keeping them from backing off now is the rust.
Yes, exactly... You're right, it would make perfect sense. They may have done that already, I'll have to verify. At this point, I'm just very relieved that it's fixed. I'm not sure how much longer I'll be keeping the car to be completely transparent. I love it to death, it is one of the best cars I've ever owned (had a 2012 sedan prior to this one) however the lack of storage space & rear seats not folding flat is becoming a bit of a deal breaker. An SUV is what I need right now & for the foreseeable future.
