G37sPhoton

Btw , if you find that part number , please let me know, just called the Infiniti dealer near me and parts guy said all were the same etc...so will try on weekday when a full crew is there and also start checking online

G37sPhoton

The below is from another poster-dwb993- on forum from some years back, but the info is still correct on plug part number , so in case anyone has this issue pop up on them...




Got the car back yesterday. Here is the breakdown on what they did:

"R&I Instrument panel to access & replace Pass firewall grommet & related parts. Leak Test."
Parts replaced:
74816JU40B-PLUG
0155400181-CLIP(2)
769113LZ0A-GARNISH ASSY-FRONT (Pillar trim)
769123LZ0A-GARNISH ASSY-FRONT (Pillar trim)

They spent 2.8 hours in labor. Total cost: Parts-268.22 Labor-350.93 Total-619.15. Covered under warranty.

Found a post on FB about this. Here is how he got to the part:

Name: Infiniti_Plug_zps2cdun0yu.jpg
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The red arrow points to the drain tube, the blue arrow points to the plug location.

Here is the plug that was replaced:

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Last edited by dwb993; 07-11-2016 at 09:57 AM

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

Relocate is my vote. After having a hurricane dump 6" of water inside and trying different things, relocating to T into AC drain worked. And still does 2 years later - nary a drop inside.

Whiterocket

I took the Pilar off and cut it half way up. Used a coupler to splice the tubes together and ran it down and around to the condenser drain tube and t'ed it there. The tubes were a pretty tight fit so I just used zip ties to secure the tubes. You can get what you need at Lowe's or home depot for like $15. All the fitting were plastic. Take the existing tube with you to match the tube size to the fittings. I cant remember the exact size I bought. Also check the size of the condenser tube. Its much bigger then the oem drain tube. I bought a few different fittings and returned what I didnt use so I didn't have to go back and forth to Lowe's

Whiterocket

here's a link from the forum. Scroll way down on the thread until you see the pic of the T fitting. Everything you need is there. Any questions I'm here.https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-in...rd-leak-2.html

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

so wheres all the water coming from? water is getting through the sunroof glass seals? i see photos of people water leaks and theres a lot of water. it cant all be coming from the sunroof when it is close or can it?

Whiterocket

Definitely. I thought the same but its definitely from there.. also could be from around the harness gromet under the battery tray/cover. When I bypassed the firewall tube into the condenser drain I also put clear silicone around the rubber harness grommet and haven't had a drop of water since. Its been over a year.

G37sPhoton

So ....much more reading than doing anything so far , but it leads me to do the bypass as the most logical solutionn , at least on passenger side, since electrical components on that side and the potential of a recurring leak, even with a new and upgraded piece ...as some posters mentioned the leak returning and here in FL and the summer rains ...well I don't want to chance it...so will purchase the tubing and I see some options on just running the tube out the AC drain and then sealing it or doing the T method , will probably buy all and then make up my mind once there and looking at it...I'm guessing the accountants looked at the cost to run the tube that extra lenght to gravities most logical out source and then said .....nah ...just make a hole and put it above the ecm and other components and....let'er rip lol....anyways ....pissed off .... and end rant ....thanks for all the help...still love..errr like the car lol...

Whiterocket

seriously. What a stupid design! No problem brother. Good luck! Let know how it works out. You should be good to go after the fix.👍 I think doing the T is the best way as to not disturb the condenser drain tube grommet.

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

someone with access to a 3d printer should make a guard type cover that can sit above the ecm electronics to at least protect it. I will gladly pay $8 for it.

Whiterocket

Lol. thats a good idea! I would bet they would charge more then $8. Probably more like $19.99🤪

G37sPhoton

yes, after seeing the ac grommet location, the T seems best so will go that route..btw this is the tubing im purchasing, any issues with this? and getting some marine grade silicon as well to add around the grommet as well ....https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2294/207144235...

Whiterocket

perfect. Same stuff I used. Marine grade silicone is good!!

nelledge

I'd be curious to hear from those that have replaced the drain with a new part from Infiniti and had it leak. I don't recall seeing one person in my searches share that information. I live in coastal Georgia. It hasn't leaked a drop since. I've read the same experience from others.

I'm all for alternative solutions, but adding hardware store parts and extending hose length brings its own risks. I imagine the designers that routed this thing had a global perspective for their design. It's been several years and thousands of miles, and people are creating solutions to a problem that is becoming widely visible. Remember, so did Nissan. I'll let you know if mine ever leaks.

I found it odd while researching that there wasn't a common DIY workaround. Everyone's design is different and incorporates different items. That's usually not how good solutions present themselves. A good design is copied without variation. Something to think about.

Whiterocket

my fix hasn't leaked in over a year and I rerouted mine to the condenser drain tube. I've read numerous people's post on this forum that have complained about bringing it to the dealer to get fixed, payi.g a ton of money just for it to leak again. Almost every car manufacturer have design flaws. If they can save $2 on something that means millions more in there pocket. Thats the name of the game. To put the drain right on top of the BCM harness is just retarded. For me rerouting it works. Fix it and forget it.