Also, the spare tire/wheel and tool kit were 30# and 8# respectively.

 

Hmmm... still waiting to hear back from Z1 on the weight of their cats. I don't remember them being super light, but maybe.

Well, the spare tire will stay in as most car companies consider that part of the crash structure. However, I do pull out the tools. When you say "tool kit" are you including the jack?

 

Yes, the entire black styrofoam insert with jack and accessories weighs about 8lbs

 

^^Thisssss. Anybody know the difference? I would think it would be a decent loss for sure.

 

That's possible. Does anyone make a decent set? All the ones I looked at have a separate spring. I wonder if the suspension will work ok and have the strength to support a spring in that area when it was originally designed to just work with the damper.

 

Yeah, I highly doubt it. I keep seeing "oh its better" but nobody has a proper explanation on WHY a true type coil is "better." I mean Nissan clearly chose to do this for a reason. And the stock strut mounting points are seriously weak looking as well.

I was also working on a family member's S5 and saw it has the exact same rear suspension (seperate spring) type. There must be some advantage to it.

 

You'll have to visit My370Z forum to find the true-type users. Most think the upper mount area can support true-type unless you're racing. The biggest problem is access to top-mounted adjusters.

Stance, among others, makes true-type coil-overs. Check the slightly out-of-date coil-over redux thread.

 

I worry about how well the lightweight batteries perform. I have heard good things on here.

Z1 2 Piece Rotors -20 lbs
New Header -10 lbs
Spare Tire Delete -40 lbs
Coilovers -10 lbs
Tomei Exh Muffler -15 lbs
New X Pipe and Pipe to Mufflers -10 lbs perhaps

That would be about 105 lbs and pretty balanced. I have already replaced my battery and bought brakes, so perhaps later.

Most of this would add performance and lose weight. The carbon fiber hoods are nice, yet expensive but pretty easy to install. The trunk would be harder to install.

 

I'm not quite sure how you would lose weight replacing your X-pipe and midpipe, especially if you went with a larger diameter, but more power to you if you did.

You may want to put that spare tire back. Most manufacturers use that as part of the crash structure in an accident.

 

We have a solid discussion going about this topic in regards to two piece rotors. Bottom line, these are cars that benefit greatly from unsprung weight reductions due to their initial weight from the factory.

That can be said for nearly any car, but ours are quite heavy on all four corners.

 

I have been trying to find a lithium ion one that does not give up any CCA for our cold WI winters, but they cost $500+ I am sure that will eventually come down in price...

I agree. Z1 rotors are on my list.

Anyone know if you lose much weight with a carbon hood or trunk? I am looking for a vented hood to help with the temps on track and Seibon's carbon fiber one seems to be one of the only options. Not sure I would lose too much weight though as the hood is already aluminum.

 

Wanted to contribute to this thread with some additional data points. My trunk is completely gutted - save for some seam sealer that I didn't bother scrapping off.







So what does this stuff weigh? Here are my numbers using my own body weight as a baseline and then taking a follow-up reading while standing on the scale and holding said items.

Spare tire - 33.4 lbs.
Foam tool tray with all factory tools - 8.4 lbs.
All trunk liners, batting, trunk mat (basic), and hardware - 13.2 lbs.
Sound deadening (two 11" x 7" spots on wheel wells and one 11" x 32" spot on trunk floor) - 2.5 lbs. (estimated)
Cargo net - 3.9 oz.

Total savings: Approx. 58 lbs.


Additional items:
Owners manuals bundle: 2 lbs. 3.3 oz




Hood liner: 1.8 lbs.




Window washer fluid reservoir (measured while filled with water): 12.2 lbs.



Total weight reduction: Approx 73 lbs.

Now, in terms of practicality... Well, that's a whole different story

 

Nice!

FYI- you may want to put the spare tire back in just in case you get rear ended as most companies use that as part of the crumple zone.

 

Valid consideration, 4DRZ. Interestingly enough, though, many new cars are being produced with tire sealant and an inflator kit in place of a spare tire. Check out this article: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...tire/index.htm. I wonder if they're having to engineer the rear of the vehicle differently in order to meet crash test standards without a spare tire in place. Also consider SUVs which, in many cases, have their spare tires mounted vertically inside the cargo area or mounted outside on the rear door (RAV4, Wrangler, Hummer H2 + H3, etc.).

 

This thread is making me too sad.
If you wanted some easy ounces there's always floor mats, headrests, glovebox, rear speakers (fronts are a necessity in my mind).
You're getting close to being able to sell all the parts and buy another G!