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Haven't read this whole thread but have you considered just changing the battery for the summer months? Then just change your battery when you change your tires.
Haven't read this whole thread but have you considered just changing the battery for the summer months? Then just change your battery when you change your tires.
I have considered that, but I don't think I would gain much as the new Lithium Ion batteries sound like the perfect fit for me. I'd also prefer not to have to store an extra battery all the time and then buy 2 new batteries since mine might only have one winter left in it. Would I also lose all of my radio presets and nav entries every time I fully disconnect the battery?
The battery issue isn't a big deal. I own a boat, and store 2 of its batteries during off-season. One is a standard lead acid starting, the other is an Optima marine blue. Both are from 2007, and still pass the yearly inspections I get on the boat. I keep them on a basic battery tender. Personally, I can't believe BOTH batteries have lasted so damn long, I am very hard on both of them. I would have thought 5 years to be good.
For cars, there are many devices that can be purchased to inject 12vdc into your cigarette lighter or OBD2 port to energize the standby circuits in your car whilst changing a battery to prevent setting loss. (BTW why the HELL don't manufacturers, including aftermarket, have memory backups or ability to save configs to file? what a PITA to go through and get everything right again!!)
Just be sure to not short the battery leads as you are exchanging batteries, as that can blow a fuse, or at least drop 12v long enough to delete settings.
It’s probably because memory storage is a new theory just coming to market and auto makers haven’t realized that consumers love simple convenience. Good call on the standby circuits, guess it’ll have to do until they open their eyes.
Just be sure to not short the battery leads as you are exchanging batteries, as that can blow a fuse, or at least drop 12v long enough to delete settings.
How would I short the battery leads- you mean having something touch both leads at the same time?
It’s probably because memory storage is a new theory just coming to market and auto makers haven’t realized that consumers love simple convenience. Good call on the standby circuits, guess it’ll have to do until they open their eyes.
this has been a problem for a long time. When car stereos with USB ports came out, I have been wondering ever since why you couldn't back up the sometimes complicated stereo configuration onto a USB stick.
Originally Posted by 4DRZ
How would I short the battery leads- you mean having something touch both leads at the same time?
Simply letting the positive clamp touch any exposed metal.
Originally Posted by guy from norcal
My battery in my 58 chevy truck is going on 9 yrs. I think it lasted so long because there is no electronics in it, Like radio pwr seats ETC.
Somewhat likely, but my boat is harder on batteries than my newer cars are. My boat has 2 pumps, an inverter, GPS, scanner, big stereo, cabin lighting, etc. Only a few circuits go offline when key-off. Most things can be turned on without the key being "on". Only difference with a car is that I monitor both batteries constantly, and I have a good isolation system.
this has been a problem for a long time. When car stereos with USB ports came out, I have been wondering ever since why you couldn't back up the sometimes complicated stereo configuration onto a USB stick.
My point is that you shouldn’t have to save it externally. It really wouldn’t be hard for them to set up non-volatile memory for onboard systems... already have it for your odometer.
Really? Well this is interesting. But does the flywheel make more noise? I thought about this when they had my clutch out and replaced the slave cylinder before, but every review I could get on this car said it was a lot louder- like a cement mixer rolling around. Thoughts?
Went with the 7at aluminum flex plate from fast intentions and thought I might get a loss of couple lbs. I got the opposite, gained 2 lbs over oem lol. Fast intentions said it’s because it’s solid aluminum with no window cuts.
Sorry replied to a reply you made buddy. It doesn’t show the message you replied to. Lol it would make sense if it did. O well just wanted to add that it was couple lbs heavier.
I am in the process of weighing the front and rear diffs that I’m swapping in from g35 rear lsd and g35x front (3.69 ratio instead of stock 3.35). The front feel soooooo light. Haven’t felt the oem g37x sedan diffs yet so it might be just as light but I mean it’s light. Front had a ship weight of 30lbs, rear was 100lbs. Just fun fact. I’ll post oem g37x sedan diff weights after the swap
I finally got my Z1 motor mounts installed and they seemed a lot lighter than stock. It turns out they were only 4 lbs. lighter. But they do make the shifting and throttle response a lot better.
I finally got my Z1 motor mounts installed and they seemed a lot lighter than stock. It turns out they were only 4 lbs. lighter. But they do make the shifting and throttle response a lot better.
Id have to agree! Love mine. Along with shifting and whatever else it also helped me create more clearance near headers and in turns. They fit x sedan also which blew my mind! I had done everything possible besides switching to new brand header. Turns out all I needed was the motor mounts
06-08-2018, 06:56 AM
Someone just made a whole lot of sense.
But they do make the shifting and throttle response a lot better.
