Sedan weight reduction
I fully gutted my G from the B pillars back, and did the following mods.
- Bride Zeta III Type L's
- Fortune Auto Dreadnought Pro 2 True Coilovers
- Advan GT's (19x9.5)
- SPL Front UCA's
- SPL Rear Camber Arms
- Motordyne ART Pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave CBE
Have the full SPL catalog coming soon, along with new brakes, etc. Getting unsprung weight as low as possible.
- Bride Zeta III Type L's
- Fortune Auto Dreadnought Pro 2 True Coilovers
- Advan GT's (19x9.5)
- SPL Front UCA's
- SPL Rear Camber Arms
- Motordyne ART Pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave CBE
Have the full SPL catalog coming soon, along with new brakes, etc. Getting unsprung weight as low as possible.
Thread Starter
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 697
From: Appleton, WI
I fully gutted my G from the B pillars back, and did the following mods.
- Bride Zeta III Type L's
- Fortune Auto Dreadnought Pro 2 True Coilovers
- Advan GT's (19x9.5)
- SPL Front UCA's
- SPL Rear Camber Arms
- Motordyne ART Pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave CBE
Have the full SPL catalog coming soon, along with new brakes, etc. Getting unsprung weight as low as possible.
- Bride Zeta III Type L's
- Fortune Auto Dreadnought Pro 2 True Coilovers
- Advan GT's (19x9.5)
- SPL Front UCA's
- SPL Rear Camber Arms
- Motordyne ART Pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave CBE
Have the full SPL catalog coming soon, along with new brakes, etc. Getting unsprung weight as low as possible.
That is a possibility, but I would prefer to remove weight from the front for the f/r weight bias if possible.
Relocating the battery couldn't be that hard or expensive could it? my BMW 3 series had the battery in the trunk. was too young (19) at the time to really appreciate why but when I sold it (24) I put in enough time behind the wheel to appreciate the handling of the car.
as for CF, the $800 hood literally saves 2 lbs. and for that, you might as well get Koni adjustables. lol
I don't personally understand the desire to get the heaviest luxury sports car possible and then try to weight reduce it but I am interested in your results. :-)
as for CF, the $800 hood literally saves 2 lbs. and for that, you might as well get Koni adjustables. lol
I don't personally understand the desire to get the heaviest luxury sports car possible and then try to weight reduce it but I am interested in your results. :-)
For those who asked, I don't have any data on weight difference. Nothing really saved much weight except for swapping the seats out (maybe 60-75 lbs total) and the spare tire/tool kit which weighed maybe 30-40. Everything else was maybe 15-20 lbs worth of crap. So roughly, 105-135 lbs saved. Once I ditch the speakers, a bit more.
However, I have saved a good bit of unsprung weight with my suspension mods, and wheels. Once I throw the full SPL catalog at the car, even more so.
Whenever I eventually weigh the car (most likely when the build is done), I'll post numbers.
However, I have saved a good bit of unsprung weight with my suspension mods, and wheels. Once I throw the full SPL catalog at the car, even more so.
Whenever I eventually weigh the car (most likely when the build is done), I'll post numbers.
For those who asked, I don't have any data on weight difference. Nothing really saved much weight except for swapping the seats out (maybe 60-75 lbs total) and the spare tire/tool kit which weighed maybe 30-40. Everything else was maybe 15-20 lbs worth of crap. So roughly, 105-135 lbs saved. Once I ditch the speakers, a bit more.
However, I have saved a good bit of unsprung weight with my suspension mods, and wheels. Once I throw the full SPL catalog at the car, even more so.
Whenever I eventually weigh the car (most likely when the build is done), I'll post numbers.
However, I have saved a good bit of unsprung weight with my suspension mods, and wheels. Once I throw the full SPL catalog at the car, even more so.
Whenever I eventually weigh the car (most likely when the build is done), I'll post numbers.
Thread Starter
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 697
From: Appleton, WI
Relocating the battery couldn't be that hard or expensive could it? my BMW 3 series had the battery in the trunk. was too young (19) at the time to really appreciate why but when I sold it (24) I put in enough time behind the wheel to appreciate the handling of the car.
as for CF, the $800 hood literally saves 2 lbs. and for that, you might as well get Koni adjustables. lol
I don't personally understand the desire to get the heaviest luxury sports car possible and then try to weight reduce it but I am interested in your results. :-)
as for CF, the $800 hood literally saves 2 lbs. and for that, you might as well get Koni adjustables. lol
I don't personally understand the desire to get the heaviest luxury sports car possible and then try to weight reduce it but I am interested in your results. :-)
What's the point of relocating the battery anyway? If your suspension is set up where you feel it's as balanced as you can make it with numerous suspension mods and chassis bracing, then relocating 30 pounds front to back is a pretty fine-tuned adjustment. Really... is it even worth it on this car? I think if you're trying to affect oversteer or understeer one way or the other, then you would start by adjusting your swaybars.
As for cleaning up the engine bay... the battery is already tucked. Very neatly too, IMO.
4DRZ, what would you hope to benefit from relocating the battery?
As for cleaning up the engine bay... the battery is already tucked. Very neatly too, IMO.
4DRZ, what would you hope to benefit from relocating the battery?
Thread Starter
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4,724
Likes: 697
From: Appleton, WI
Relocating the battery does a couple of things. I have yet to weight it, but lets use your estimate of 30 lbs. If I relocate it to the back of the car it removes 30 lbs from the front and adds 30 lbs to the rear. This is a positive gain of 60 lbs in terms of getting closer to a 50/50 weight balance front to rear.
Nissan did a good job of putting the battery on the passenger side of the car to also counter the weight of the driver side to side. If I move it to the rear and far passenger side of the car this will also improve the weight distribution side to side. So when the rear breaks loose it will be more manageable and balanced as opposed to a car with snap oversteer. To be sure I would probably want to get the car on 4 scales and see about corner weighting it as well.
Nissan did a good job of putting the battery on the passenger side of the car to also counter the weight of the driver side to side. If I move it to the rear and far passenger side of the car this will also improve the weight distribution side to side. So when the rear breaks loose it will be more manageable and balanced as opposed to a car with snap oversteer. To be sure I would probably want to get the car on 4 scales and see about corner weighting it as well.
The rest... IDK. I suppose if you do it and the change is perceived negatively, you swap back in a few minutes, and are only out the time and materials to make the project happen.








